Test driving tomorrow 1997 Aerostar

[Solitary Spell]

Thanks, you all -- and I had the same thought about compression test, that or dumping a case of Bars Leaks into it and saying a prayer. I always wondered if compression tests blow out something that would have stayed benign if you didn't bother it... but seriously I wish I'd thought of asking about that yesterday, or they'd said something. I really hope this works. At least it isn't too much $ on the purchase.

Anybody else a Scotty Kilmer fan????

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Thanks, you all -- and I had the same thought about compression test, that or dumping a case of Bars Leaks into it and saying a prayer. I always wondered if compression tests blow out something that would have stayed benign if you didn't bother it... but seriously I wish I'd thought of asking about that yesterday, or they'd said something. I really hope this works. At least it isn't too much $ on the purchase.

The only danger from a compression test is if they either snap a plug off trying to remove it, or cross-thread it trying to put the plugs back in.  Either would be expensive, and the saying "If you break it, you bought it"  would probably apply.  That's probably why the mechanic didn't suggest it to you.

Have them hook a vacuum gauge up also, that can spot sticking or burned valves, as well as other problems.

 

[Solitary Spell]

Thought those who've been following would like to know that I ended up not doing the deal. Who knows if I just passed up a vehicle that would have served me well for a couple-three years, but the tires being dry rot and the likelihood of seals being in the same condition (they already told me valve cover gaskets or another oil-leaking gasket was shot) scared me away. A 20 year old vehicle is going to have these issues, it kind of offset the parts I liked about it. I feel like living in my Toyota Corolla at this point, I think it would be easier than trying to find a decent van in New England.

 

[djkeev]

Thanks for letting us know your decision.
You did what was right for YOU...... that's all that matters....... though you probably did pass up the greatest deal we'll see in 2016.....

Dave

 

[Solitary Spell]

Maybe I could have bought it and just replaced the engine. (Only kidding). The cracked serpentine belt, dry-rotted tires, differential seal leak and other (valve cover gasket?) engine oil leak were all pointing to disuse and resulting breakdown of seals....I guess it would be better to buy a regularly-driven vehicle with higher mileage if it was maintained properly.

 

[hepcat]

Maybe I could have bought it and just replaced the engine. (Only kidding). The cracked serpentine belt, dry-rotted tires, differential seal leak and other (valve cover gasket?) engine oil leak were all pointing to disuse and resulting breakdown of seals....I guess it would be better to buy a regularly-driven vehicle with higher mileage if it was maintained properly.

FWIW, I bought my '95 B-van last year for $5k with only 26k miles on it.  And then sunk another $4k in it in tires, fluids, belts, brakes and rotors, tune-up, ball joints... the list is extensive, and there was nothing really wrong with it, and none of that was replacing or repairing any of the major drive train components. ($900 of that $4k went into the generator though.)  It was all just routine, if deferred, maintenance; and most of it on the chassis and drivetrain.  I think I only put about $400 into "coach" system repairs.     I wanted it to be reliable.  So, it's entirely possible that you could have sunk a LOT of money into that one too just to get it up to the point you could consider it to be "reliable."

 

[Solitary Spell]

HepCat said: So, it's entirely possible that you could have sunk a LOT of money into that one too just to get it up to the point you could consider it to be "reliable."

That would be me, definitely. I always spend what needs to be spent on my cars for that nice feeling of knowing everything's up to date. I'd love to buy a vehicle from ME!

 

[Solitary Spell]

Obsessing over this van....look at this product, AT-205. I found it on the Scotty Kilmer channel and then Amazon. Hell, if it made the cheapo non-rusty van last for 2 years I'd be thrilled.

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM#customerReviews

This is just one review....

I have been an automotive technician for over 47 years. I don't believe in "snake oils", but I DO BELIEVE IN AT205!!! I am a Master Certified Tech. I know what works and what doesn't. This product is amazing and may be the most underrated product on the market! I cannot guarantee it will fix every leak, if there is a hole in a gasket or seal, it cannot fix that. This is a seal conditioner. It softens and restores the pliability of the seal to a nearly new condition. One example: A 10 year old high mileage Astro van with a horrible rear main oil seal leak, one of the worst I have ever seen. The bottom of the chassis was coated with oil from the engine to the rear bumper. I don't think there was a dry spot in-between. I have to admit that I had little hope of even helping this vehicle, but it was worth a try. Certainly easier than pulling the transmission to replace the seal, very costly for a high mileage vehicle. We cleaned the bottom of the vehicle. I was totally astounded when, at the next oil change, we found the bottom of the chassis bone dry! It was unbelievable! He had been adding several quarts of oil between changes and afterwards I know it was next to nothing, if anything at all.

I have used AT205 on my own vehicles. To repair most rear main oil seal leaks today requires removal of an engine or transmission. I might have to add this product to 2-3 consecutive oil changes, but it has always substantially reduced or eliminated the leaks all together. 2-3 bottles of AT205 is a lot less expensive and a lot less work than the alternative. If the first bottle does not complete the job at hand, give it 1-2 more tries before giving up. If the seal only needs to be reconditioned, this product will definitely do it. Do your self another favor when doing the job, use only a good quality engine oil like Pennzoil. The additives in these products are worth a few pennies more. There is a lot of hype about different oils and everyone of them has their own claims. I have used Pennzoil exclusively for over 30 years and with doing nothing more than changing oil alone I have had several customers as well as myself reduce oil consumption and lower emissions on some of the higher mileage vehicles. And I never use the "high mileage" oil, just good quality Pennzoil.

 

[highdesertranger]

mechanic in a jar. don't count on it. highdesertranger

 

[GotSmart]

Varnish in a bottle.  That is for motors on their last legs.  Most of those reviews are from paid reviewers.  Look at the numbers.  It plugs seals, passages, mechanical parts... Not a good thing.  Used car dealers buy that in case lots to turn a $200 car into a $2,000 car~~~ It makes the motor run quieter ~~~Until you get off the lot. 

I only recommend fuel system cleaner to keep the system from gumming up.

 

[ArtW]

*coughsnakeoilcough*

 

[hepcat]

Softened seals wear faster. It'll make the leak stop... for a few days, until the seal wears more, and then it's like there isn't any seal at all. You'll notice that almost none of those 'testimonials' talk about how long the leak stayed sealed, long-term?