RossCoe said:
40w panel for $35.00 regular price
https://www.solarblvd.com/products/solar-cynergy-40-watt-12-volt-solar-panel-2/
suaoki solar generator
- Thread starter RossCoe
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40w panel for $35.00 regular price
https://www.solarblvd.com/products/solar-cynergy-40-watt-12-volt-solar-panel-2/
RossCoe
Well-known member
bardo said:
That's a great price! But then add $20 for shipping, and I think it is bare wires on the connection. I am a plug and play type of gal
I hate when shipping costs almost as much as the product!! I think I will keep a lookout for deals on 50 watts or so on Black Friday or Cyber Monday. That wattage will meet my needs and keep the cost down. Thanks for keeping an eye out.
user 37446
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So really what we are seeing from this longer discussion and John's input is that these ""battery generators" (not really generators) are ok for the phone, tablet, small laptop, usb device recharging. Lithium Ion saves you weight but adds a lot to cost over a "standard" sealed FLA setup. Even using a UPS battery system, of which there are several both FLA and lithium based, is an option for the low amperage draw crowd.
However, to run an appliance somewhat amp hour demanding, like a 12v compressor fridg or even a F Fan (Maxxair or equivalent) on above the lowest 1 amp/hour speed would likely overtax these "battery generators". Some people might have the option to daily use a/c recharging (at a job for example) but most van dwellers don't. Solar recharging has its time and weather/season constraints and there doesn't seem to be a way to use the alternator recharging (above the ciggy plug tiny amounts), so that is a no-go as well. Thus, these are all devices for lower loads.
There's no substitute for a larger 100-220+ amp bank of AGM, FLA or equivalent that is affordable and not overly complex in order to run larger loads over longer time periods. There's a lot of discussion regarding Li Ion devices however that's over the head and budget of most of us. Not saying it doesn't work, just a bit early for the masses to adopt when FLA works just fine for most except those who need ultra portability and/or low weight.
I've read hundreds of pages and dozens of posts and still fall back to AGM/FLA for use unless I can ditch anything above the barest minimum. There's just no good solution at the present it seems.
However, to run an appliance somewhat amp hour demanding, like a 12v compressor fridg or even a F Fan (Maxxair or equivalent) on above the lowest 1 amp/hour speed would likely overtax these "battery generators". Some people might have the option to daily use a/c recharging (at a job for example) but most van dwellers don't. Solar recharging has its time and weather/season constraints and there doesn't seem to be a way to use the alternator recharging (above the ciggy plug tiny amounts), so that is a no-go as well. Thus, these are all devices for lower loads.
There's no substitute for a larger 100-220+ amp bank of AGM, FLA or equivalent that is affordable and not overly complex in order to run larger loads over longer time periods. There's a lot of discussion regarding Li Ion devices however that's over the head and budget of most of us. Not saying it doesn't work, just a bit early for the masses to adopt when FLA works just fine for most except those who need ultra portability and/or low weight.
I've read hundreds of pages and dozens of posts and still fall back to AGM/FLA for use unless I can ditch anything above the barest minimum. There's just no good solution at the present it seems.
That battery, if it's true
http://www.batteryspace.com/polymer...h-10a-rate---ul-listed-un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx
"lipo" don't last nearly as long as LFP, and most importantly greater risk of thermal runaway, so don't bypass their BMS and charging circuitry.
You'd need a voltmeter and ammeter to be able to get accurate real-life performance info.
But meantime, see how long it lasts with you putting all your expected loads on it, e.g. running your laptop and a vent fan at the same time, from fully charged until the BMS shuts it off.
And then how long it takes to fully recharge from the included mains charger.
http://www.batteryspace.com/polymer...h-10a-rate---ul-listed-un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx
"lipo" don't last nearly as long as LFP, and most importantly greater risk of thermal runaway, so don't bypass their BMS and charging circuitry.
You'd need a voltmeter and ammeter to be able to get accurate real-life performance info.
But meantime, see how long it lasts with you putting all your expected loads on it, e.g. running your laptop and a vent fan at the same time, from fully charged until the BMS shuts it off.
And then how long it takes to fully recharge from the included mains charger.
Yes, from just the battery POV the biggest Yeti at thousands of dollars, does not have half the capacity of a pair of Duracell FLA 6v, which costs ~$180
And personally with solar only, I'd get two pairs as a minimum if I were running a fridge + good vent fan.
These little more portable units are like thimblefuls of energy in comparison, will barely keep up with a laptop plus some LEDs.
Fine for phones and tablets, meant for shore-power living then going out on an overnight hike or a picnic.
Getting away from just battery capacity, **if** the inverter, charger, different voltage ports really do exactly meet **your** needs, then they do add some value.
But really, if you're living in your van, not wealthy and not a luddite, you're going to have to figure this stuff out sometime anyway, we're here to help you educate yourself to make more informed decisions, and you'll end up with a much better system at much lower cost doing it yourself.
If you do have Yeti-level budget, and **really** want to avoid learning this stuff, it's worth paying a professional.
And personally with solar only, I'd get two pairs as a minimum if I were running a fridge + good vent fan.
These little more portable units are like thimblefuls of energy in comparison, will barely keep up with a laptop plus some LEDs.
Fine for phones and tablets, meant for shore-power living then going out on an overnight hike or a picnic.
Getting away from just battery capacity, **if** the inverter, charger, different voltage ports really do exactly meet **your** needs, then they do add some value.
But really, if you're living in your van, not wealthy and not a luddite, you're going to have to figure this stuff out sometime anyway, we're here to help you educate yourself to make more informed decisions, and you'll end up with a much better system at much lower cost doing it yourself.
If you do have Yeti-level budget, and **really** want to avoid learning this stuff, it's worth paying a professional.
RossCoe
Well-known member
John61CT said:
I am halfway thru the charge, looking for things to run that would simulate car camping. I will keep you posted.
RossCoe
Well-known member
John61CT said:
grounded 110, 2 prong 110, 2 12 volt, but they are prong inserts, not a female cup, and 2 usb. They included one 12 volt cup adapter.
Just to confirm, this is yours, the "220W" version?
https://www.amazon.com/Suaoki-Portable-Generator-Inverters-Charged/dp/B06ZXYVG4G
Those two 12V ports look like DC5521, what they call "5.5mm" ports.
Is that where they want you to plug in their solar panel?
And by "cup" do you mean a ciggie port like in a car, that has a male plug on the other side that goes into the DC5521?
Those would be 5.5mm outside width, 2.1mm on the inside, very standard plug for DC adapters.
They didn't give an option for charging **from** your car's 12V, like a male ciggie plug?
See if you can google for a link to the user manual as PDF.
https://www.amazon.com/Suaoki-Portable-Generator-Inverters-Charged/dp/B06ZXYVG4G
Those two 12V ports look like DC5521, what they call "5.5mm" ports.
Is that where they want you to plug in their solar panel?
And by "cup" do you mean a ciggie port like in a car, that has a male plug on the other side that goes into the DC5521?
Those would be 5.5mm outside width, 2.1mm on the inside, very standard plug for DC adapters.
They didn't give an option for charging **from** your car's 12V, like a male ciggie plug?
See if you can google for a link to the user manual as PDF.
RossCoe
Well-known member
Yes, that is mine, an s 601. By cup, I mean they give a female connector to go into the 12 volt ports for regular cigarette lighter plugs to fit into. I guess I have never seen a 12 volt appliance with a straight jack, just a cigarette lighter plug.John61CT said:
There is one input jack, that accepts a wall charger( with a plug with a transformer brick), a cigarette lighter car charger- (all included), and it will accept an adapter with mc4 connectors for a solar panel (sold separately for $10).
All my reading said that it had a built in charge controller, but after reading all the Q&A on the amazon site, it appears that only the larger model- the 440 watt $400 model- has the charge controller built in. But with the adapter, a separate charge controller is not necessary for the solar panels to charge this little brother. It has a battery management system that supposedly handles the solar charge.
And speaking of solar panels, I have an ebay offer to buy a Renogy polycrystalline 50 watt panel for $62.50 with free shipping. I need to purchase by tomorrow for that price. Still debating if I can do better over black friday or cyber monday. Or if I need it al all.
The 21 watt solar usb charger I picked up works great, charged up my ipad. Only annoying part is if a shadow passed over, it stops charging, but I think that's just an Apple thing. Very portable! I'll probably get most use from using after power loss from hurricanes (in SC and NJ) or snow storms here in NJ. Or traveling back and forth from NJ to SC and back. Hubby and I used to make that trip once a month.
Hold off on buying any more solar for now.
are the DC5521 5.5mm O.D., 2.1mm I.D. specification
In other words, input and output ports for 12V are all the same?
DC converters are there on output to go from internal cell voltage (whatever multiples of 3.7V) to USB 5V and maybe 12-14V for nominal 12V output.
There may also be an internal DC converter to enable accepting 12V (13.8-15?) charge input.
This would not be as efficient for solar panel direct connection but also not unsafe.
No, the slightest shadow, leaf dust etc will reduce or stop performance on all solar panels.
Again, please see if you can google for a link to the user manual online as PDF. If not by model#, put a unique phrase in quotes.
OK, that is a ciggie port. I hate these, very unreliable connections. But another topic.RossCoe said:
Please confirm that input port, thus all the 12V connections at the box (other side of the ciggie port F for 12V output and ciggie plug M for 12V charging input, same port as optional solar via MC4 adapter)RossCoe said:
are the DC5521 5.5mm O.D., 2.1mm I.D. specification
In other words, input and output ports for 12V are all the same?
BMS just cuts output if voltage goes too low and cuts input if the charge source goes too high.RossCoe said:
DC converters are there on output to go from internal cell voltage (whatever multiples of 3.7V) to USB 5V and maybe 12-14V for nominal 12V output.
There may also be an internal DC converter to enable accepting 12V (13.8-15?) charge input.
This would not be as efficient for solar panel direct connection but also not unsafe.
RossCoe said:
No, the slightest shadow, leaf dust etc will reduce or stop performance on all solar panels.
Again, please see if you can google for a link to the user manual online as PDF. If not by model#, put a unique phrase in quotes.
So, capacity testing.
Best to ignore the inverter output for now, since it would have greater inefficiency losses than their DC-DC converter that's outputting 12V.
Starting with the assumption their 220wH rating is honest, that's 18AH @ 12V.
We need to get a load device that burns a constant 11W, just under 1A @ 12V, and put it on the unit after it's 100% full, run that load for - rather, see if the unit shuts down at around - 20 hours.
A little light bulb or LED strip might just do it.
To know what is going on, not just with this powerpak, but all your DC electrics, you really should measure amps and volts.
Here's a cheap meter, good enough for now
https://m.ebay.com/itm/DROK-DC-0-12...ge-Discharge-Battery-Tester-Volt/253212149044
Best to ignore the inverter output for now, since it would have greater inefficiency losses than their DC-DC converter that's outputting 12V.
Starting with the assumption their 220wH rating is honest, that's 18AH @ 12V.
We need to get a load device that burns a constant 11W, just under 1A @ 12V, and put it on the unit after it's 100% full, run that load for - rather, see if the unit shuts down at around - 20 hours.
A little light bulb or LED strip might just do it.
To know what is going on, not just with this powerpak, but all your DC electrics, you really should measure amps and volts.
Here's a cheap meter, good enough for now
https://m.ebay.com/itm/DROK-DC-0-12...ge-Discharge-Battery-Tester-Volt/253212149044
RossCoe
Well-known member
John61CT said:
And I can't find a pdf of the manual on the Suaoki site or a general google search. It is only 7 pages. If you want to PM me I can send you pictures of it.
This is the adapter for solar charging. The same port is used for wall charging and car charging- just with different adapters.
The 12 volt outputs are separate from the input port.
Suaoki MC4 Connector Solar Panel Adapter Cable to DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm for Portable Gnenerator, 41"
My question is, do they use that same *5521 type* port / jack for both input and output?
They're easy to find online cheap in bulk to set up our testing load, and to avoid using ciggie ports for charging and your regularly used load devices.
https://www.google.com/search?q=dc+5.5+2.1+female+OR+male
They're easy to find online cheap in bulk to set up our testing load, and to avoid using ciggie ports for charging and your regularly used load devices.
https://www.google.com/search?q=dc+5.5+2.1+female+OR+male
RossCoe
Well-known member
John61CT said:
I can't tell if they are the same just because visually they look different, but the center pin could be the same size.
The 12 volt output jacks have a silver ring around them and are flush, with a pin in the center. The input charging jack is just a recessed hole with a center pin.
I'm working on Imgur. I have never heard of it, but am learning.
RossCoe
Well-known member
John61CT said:
The input jack is recessed and can't be measured. I have a targus adapter kit for AC charging. I'll dig that out and see if they have one compatible.
