Sourcing Parts 1990 E-150

[borristhespider]

Howdy folks!

I have a 90 e150 and I'm trying to replace the front end. I'm not sure exactly what I need to order or where to find the parts I need to do the repair. I have connections to get the work done a good price but I dont know how to go about sourcing parts. Is there anywhere I can be directed for a "front end replacement" parts list? I have looked extensively on google and I see similar packages but can't find my year and model?

Looking for any tips and tricks for repair guidelines. Or maybe I need to get underneath and go from there. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all,

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[bullfrog]

How about letting the mechanic inspect it to see what needs to be replaced and give you an estimate with a complete parts list? Maybe even let him check out or recommend sources of parts made in the USA. Be wary of cheap kits or parts from outside the USA. Imported front end parts have a back track record of fitting and lasting on a regular basis.

 

[user 423]

If your 'connection' who will do the work is knowledgeable in Ford frontend work, they should also know what parts are needed and where to get them.

 

[borristhespider]

I plan on using my painter mechanic. Hispanic guy that I won't be in very much communication with. Works on all my painter vans but my painter fans aren't a 1990. The idea is I will Source all the parts and have him ready for replacement. Guy knows how to do the work but I would prefer not have to pay someone to source parts that old. I need to have it all ready.

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[highdesertranger]

ok first off, why do you think you need this work done? or what are the symptoms? I am always against replacing good parts.

second is this a Ford twin I-Beam front end?

MOOG has good parts. Moog is a brand name.

Rock Auto or Napa should have everything you need.

you do realize you will need an alignment after.

highdesertranger

 

[user 423]

You'd have better luck posting your question on a Ford forum like Ford Truck Enthusiasts.

 

[borristhespider]

ok first off,  why do you think you need this work done?  or what are the symptoms?  I am always against replacing good parts.

second is this a Ford twin I-Beam front end?

MOOG has good parts.  Moog is a brand name.

Rock Auto or Napa should have everything you need.

you do realize you will need an alignment after.

highdesertranger

All good points. And thanks for the feedback.
Steering on the front right is real squirrely. Really tough to keep it in the lanes during rain. I assume the left side isn't far behind an as its a 30 year old van I figured I'd do everything while I have it on a lift. I have ordered parts for this exact repair from Rock Auto but I got all the wrong stuff. My buddy fancies himself a mechanic and ordered for the wrong year. Hince me reaching out for some more experience.
I probably have no business sourcing all this on my own but I'm on a budget and this is how I can get it done. And ya alignment is covered in the repairs.

 

[highdesertranger]

is this a Ford twin I-Beam?

highdesertranger

 

[Doubleone]

I have not had good experience using the bargain generic all-in-one steering kits.  The tie rods tend to wear out quickly even with frequent grease (inferior parts).  The main thing on our Ford vans that cause slop is the longest tie rod that goes from the steering box toward the right. That rod end at the steering box takes all the steering force and wears quickly.  Only use a Moog part for that link, the Moog will last you 30k+ miles but others can wear in less than 10k miles.  Outer tie rods are also frequent culprits that get loose.  The rubber on the radius arm bushings frequently crack, get sloppy, creak and clunk.  I replace those with urethane bushings.  I've used the Moog urethane version before but more prefer the Prothane because they have a better preload.  I also use Prothane at the axle pivot bushings because the stock rubber replacements are way too compliant and move around on my heavy class C.  Also, there is a hidden constant velocity joint up under the dash that gets sloppy and makes you think you need a steering box, I'll put a link below for you.  Its hidden way up there under the dash and takes a contortionist to replace it.  Don't replace the steering box without checking that joint first.  In any case do a dry park check to find what's loose before spending your money.  If there are torn or missing rubber boots on tie rods or ball joints, those are either already gone or about to go out.  As for brands to buy, Moog and ACdelco Professional series are the best but most expensive.  I have had very good experience with the ACdelco Advantage series, and I think it's somewhat ironic when I use a GM parts on my Ford... 

Here are some examples - Amazon doesn't display the right parts so check the catalogs to get the exact part number for your year model.
Long tie rod
Steering shaft joint
Prothane radius bushing
Prothane pivot bushing
https://smile.amazon.com/Prothane-6...hane+radius+bushing+kit&qid=1577041662&sr=8-4

 

[borristhespider]

is this a Ford twin I-Beam?

highdesertranger

Sorry yes it is

 

[borristhespider]

I have not had good experience using the bargain generic all-in-one steering kits.  The tie rods tend to wear out quickly even with frequent grease (inferior parts).  The main thing on our Ford vans that cause slop is the longest tie rod that goes from the steering box toward the right. That rod end at the steering box takes all the steering force and wears quickly.  Only use a Moog part for that link, the Moog will last you 30k+ miles but others can wear in less than 10k miles.  Outer tie rods are also frequent culprits that get loose.  The rubber on the radius arm bushings frequently crack, get sloppy, creak and clunk.  I replace those with urethane bushings.  I've used the Moog urethane version before but more prefer the Prothane because they have a better preload.  I also use Prothane at the axle pivot bushings because the stock rubber replacements are way too compliant and move around on my heavy class C.  Also, there is a hidden constant velocity joint up under the dash that gets sloppy and makes you think you need a steering box, I'll put a link below for you.  Its hidden way up there under the dash and takes a contortionist to replace it.  Don't replace the steering box without checking that joint first.  In any case do a dry park check to find what's loose before spending your money.  If there are torn or missing rubber boots on tie rods or ball joints, those are either already gone or about to go out.  As for brands to buy, Moog and ACdelco Professional series are the best but most expensive.  I have had very good experience with the ACdelco Advantage series, and I think it's somewhat ironic when I use a GM parts on my Ford... 

Here are some examples - Amazon doesn't display the right parts so check the catalogs to get the exact part number for your year model.
Long tie rod
Steering shaft joint
Prothane radius bushing
Prothane pivot bushing
https://smile.amazon.com/Prothane-6...hane+radius+bushing+kit&qid=1577041662&sr=8-4

Right On!  That seems to be the general consensus around here. Don't make sense to go cheap on parts when the money is in the labor. I was looking for the kits more for ease of parts sourcing. And thanks for the tip about the catalogs to order from. I'll definitely keep that in mind.

 

[borristhespider]

Sorry yes it is

 

[highdesertranger]

I would make damn sure parts are actually bad before replacing any of them. Ford twin I-Beam while they are considered a super strong front end assembly. they are also have their quirks. they are known to wear tires funny, wonder on the highway, get the death wobble, and can only be truly aligned on the rack. as soon as you drive them, they are no longer aligned until you come to a complete stop. nothing to really worry about and you still need to align it after any front end work is done, but it is one of their quirks. a simple piece of paper, pencil, a ruler and a compass. along with simple geometry shows tis to be true. highdesertranger

 

[borristhespider]

I would make damn sure parts are actually bad before replacing any of them. Ford twin I-Beam while they are considered a super strong front end assembly.  they are also have their quirks.  they are known to wear tires funny,  wonder on the highway,  get the death wobble,  and can only be truly aligned on the rack.  as soon as you drive them,  they are no longer aligned until you come to a complete stop.  nothing to really worry about and you still need to align it after any front end work is done,  but it is one of their quirks.  a simple piece of paper,  pencil,  a ruler and a compass. along with simple geometry shows tis to be true.  highdesertranger

10-4. I get it into a shop for a proper evaluation before I wind up wasting any more time and money on this beast. Thanks a bunch.