Solar Wiring and Fuses questions

[Lafnbug]

Did a quick search on this and found some answers, but I though it might be a good idea to put all this together for future reference for others. If there is a thread that addresses all this, please let me know:

My initials setup:
(1) Blue Sky SB-3000i,
(4) Renogy 100w panels, parallel
(4) Duracell 6v GC, either GC2 or EGC2 (not purchased yet, haven't made up my mind) in a series/parallel connection.

Will be adding at a later date a second array and controller to this system for redundancy and additional power:
(1) Blue Sky SB-2000e
(2-3) Renogy 100w panels, parallel (this depends on available roof space, and fan selection(s).)
*(2 more) Duracell 6v GC, either GC2 or EGC2 (maybe, it depends how I do with the initial 430/460 amp hours)

I'm down to wiring and fuses. The longest run in this entire setup will likely be less than 10 feet (extended van, big roof rack).  

Once I converge the first 400w of panels with the branch connectors (assuming a max of 23a), will 10g be sufficient to the Charge Controller? Will I notice any appreciable gains by going to 8g or even 6g?

Where can I source this wiring/cabling?

Do I fuse between the panels and the CC, as well as between the CC and batteries?

Now, what manufacturer do you recommend for these fuses? Are standard automotive in-line fuses acceptable, are they available in the necessary gauges?

What is used to make the connections to the fuses? Crimped? Should they be soldered? Another method?

Is it necessary to fuse the appliances/outlets/lights/fans on the other side of the battery?

I want a safe and trouble free system. When in doubt, I would prefer to go overkill on hardware (obviously ) Thanks for your thoughts on this!

 

[highdesertranger]

here's a chart that shows wire size, http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html . it appears 8 gauge is the minimum for the solar run.

all branch circuits should be fuse protected.

for your high amp fuses I like maxi fuses they are available at most auto part stores. here's a good holder, https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-MAXI-Block/dp/B000THTBZO?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 .

if you have a good crimper, crimping is fine.

auto fuses are fine get quality fuses Bussman, Littelfuse. hope this helps. highdesertranger

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

I'm down to wiring and fuses. The longest run in this entire setup will likely be less than 10 feet (extended van, big roof rack).  

Once I converge the first 400w of panels with the branch connectors (assuming a max of 23a), will 10g be sufficient to the Charge Controller? Will I notice any appreciable gains by going to 8g or even 6g?

I went with 4 AWG for an 8 foot run (16' R.T.) from 200 W solar to controller and 16 inches, controller to batteries.  Very little voltage drop.  My system was planned for 400 watts of solar but I am just fine with 200 W.  Here is the calculator I use:

http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/#

Where can I source this wiring/cabling?

Lots of places on the internet sell wire (I used welding wire for its flexibility).  There are places that will sell finished wire if you don't want to buy a crimper (good ones are expensive).

Do I fuse between the panels and the CC, as well as between the CC and batteries?
Now, what manufacturer do you recommend for these fuses? Are standard automotive in-line fuses acceptable, are they available in the necessary gauges?

ABYC code requires a fuse within 8" of battery.  Your controller instructions should specify what fusing is required between solar and controller.
A good tutorial on fusing:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_fusing

I went with ANL 60 amp fuses at the controller and battery because they are cheaper than class T or MRBF fuses.  Blue Sea sells good quality circuit breakers that work well also.  The ANL fuse holder doubles as a disconnect for when I want to disconnect the batteries or controller.

What is used to make the connections to the fuses? Crimped? Should they be soldered? Another method?

I used crimped wire (I have a good crimper for automotive work) but a good solder joint will work also.  Most important is the quality of the connection; a bad crimp joint is worse than a good solder joint and vise versa.  IMO crimping is better for high vibration (moving vehicle) environments.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

Is it necessary to fuse the appliances/outlets/lights/fans on the other side of the battery?

It is a smart thing to do.  I used a Blue Sea fuse block:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

I want a safe and trouble free system. When in doubt, I would prefer to go overkill on hardware (obviously ) Thanks for your thoughts on this!

  --Spiff