Rust stains on lock and spare tire rack - how to fix ?

[caseyc]

Last year I installed a new tire rack for the rear door of my van. I noticed it now has some rust spots going through the black paint.&nbsp; I also recently installed some MasterLocks on my door, and noticed there is a small rust spot starting to show.&nbsp; Annoying!&nbsp; Is there any way of fixing this problem?<br><br>A Ford service dealer rep says I should try using Rust-Oleum which should help.&nbsp; Anyone have experience with this product?&nbsp; Does it really work, especially on metal?&nbsp; I park my van in an area that has a lot of moisture and salt air.<br><br>I did a Google search on Rust-Oleum and found some products that vary widely in cost, but I don't know what the difference is.&nbsp; Apparently, Rust-Oleum comes in different colors including Black and Nickel (silver).<br><br><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stops-Rust-12-oz-Protective-Enamel-Spray-Paint-7779830/202315069" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stops-Rust-12-oz-Protective-Enamel-Spray-Paint-7779830/202315069</a><br><br><a href="http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=21146856" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=21146856</a><br><br>Anyone have ideas what to do?<br><br>Thanks! Casey<br><br>

 

[James AKA Lynx]

On the locks, try some CLR home spray. Do not get any on the paint or you will have problems.<br><br>Sand the spot some and the spray with <span id="post_message_1278223027">Rust-Oleum. Should work out OK.<br><br>James AKA Lynx<br></span>

 

[MrNoodly]

<span style="line-height: 20px;">Rust-Oleum has been around forever. It will do the job. However, proper surface preparation is important. Since you installed the tire carrier, you know how to remove it. Take it off so you can really do a good sanding job, particularly on that corner. <br><br>Start with something like 60 grit wet sanding paper -- the black stuff, not the brown. Sand beyond the rust to blend it with the painted area. Then use some 200 grit paper to smooth things out a bit. (Since you're not doing show quality body work, you can stop with the 200 grit.<br><br>Wipe off all the dust, dirt and stuff you created by sanding, and the dirt that's there from the carrier being outside.<br><br>Spray on several thin coats of Rust-Oleum primer. Doing several thin coats prevents dribbles. Primer is important. It provides a better bond for the final paint.<br><br>Spray several thin coats of the black Rust-Oleum (covering all the gray primer, of course).<br><br>After everything is dry, reinstall the carrier, making sure not to ding the paint. That's what allowed the rust to form in the first place. If you do ding the carrier or the van, daub on some clear nail polish.<br><br>The alternate, expensive, pro solution is to take it to a powder paint shop, where they'll sandblast the whole thing and bake the plastic powder paint on.</span>

 

[creationode]

Rustoleum works great.&nbsp; All of their paints are made to help with waterproofing.<br><br>The Plastidip paint would be a good choice for your lock, actually.&nbsp; It would kind of 'hide' the appearance of a big, shiny lock on your door, as well as protecting it from the elements.<br><br>Any outdoor paint ie. automotive, marine, etc, will help with rust.<br><br>As above mentioned, I would sand off the rust first.&nbsp; I always sand down rust.&nbsp; <br><br>All you really need is some steel wool.&nbsp; It does help to use some kind of rust remover solution, and HD etc. sell them in spades.&nbsp; They all work well enough.&nbsp; Elbow grease and an abrasive, like steel wool, really do most of the work, though.&nbsp; <br><br>To let the rust remover do most of the work, requires soaking the metal in it for at least 24 hours.&nbsp; The solutions tend to remove whatever finish is on the metal and sort of 'tint' the non-rusted metal with...an orangish/yellow look, which is the rust that has dispersed into the water.&nbsp; It requires a further cleaning to remove this 'rust water stain'...<br><br>I would actually remove all of that black paint on the spare tire rack.&nbsp; The black paint used in most auto accessories, is really crappy.&nbsp; The metal underneath is rarely primed.&nbsp; I have a uhaul installed hitch on my van, and it looks like crap.&nbsp; I intend to fully depaint it, prime it, then paint it in some awesome industrial coating...I might even have it powder coated.<br><br>Removing paint is not hard at all, but you do need to be prepared to make a giant mess all over the floor.&nbsp; A simple high-speed drill, with some cheap HF disc abrasives helps ginormously in removing large amounts.<br><br>To not prattle, I end this!<br><br>Good luck with your rust removing!&nbsp; It is satisfying, and well worth it to fix your rust/paint problems.

 

[MrNoodly]

If you're going to remove all the paint, I recommend aircraft stripper. It's noxious stuff, but it's a lot easier than most other methods, including other types of stripper. Get rubber gloves (the heavy duty mad scientist kind, not the thin surgical glove kind) and a dust mask or bandana. Use it outside. Spray the stripper on, wait a couple of minutes for the paint to bubble, then slide it off with pieces of cardboard or something like a paint stir stick or plastic spatula. Repeat to get the paint out of the nooks and crannies. Wipe it down with mineral spirits and paper towels to get any remaining goo off, then spray with primer before the steel can start oxidizing.

 

[creationode]

Thanks Mr.Noodly!<br><br>I spied that formiddable looking metal square jug of aircraft stripper at HD last week.<br><br><strong>Will this stuff take off mastic/carpet glue as well?</strong><br><br>I have to remove the horrible carpeting in my cargo area, and do not want to buy a one-use mastic remover chemical.&nbsp; I have removed mastic before, and it is a very lame project.&nbsp; <br><br>I prefer multi-use chemicals when I buy them.&nbsp; At nearly $60 a can, if I can use aircraft remover, then I will have a nice amount of leftover, ultra powerful stripper left.&nbsp; That would make me happy, for the price.

 

[MrNoodly]

Though buying the big jug is a better price-volume deal, the spray on version is much easier to use. No brushes, a more even coating, faster. You can find the spray version at auto parts stores, next to the paint.

 

[creationode]

* Mr.Noodly slips and slides in style! *<br><br>* A noodly version of rocks and rolls *<br><br>Four thumbs up to Mr.Noodly!

 

[MrNoodly]

Oh, and as far as carpet glue goes, I don't know. But aircraft stripper will certainly take up the paint between the glue. Repainting a van floor is a whole different story -- one you might not want to get into.

 

[creationode]

Ah...good job catching my ill-conceived semi-plan...I do not want to remove the paint, that is for sure!&nbsp; I loathe the idea of removing the very excellent original paint and primer.<br><br>I will just settle on mastic remover.&nbsp; It will be worth it, in the end.<br><br><img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[caseyc]

Wow, thanks guys! That's a lot of good information. &nbsp;For now, I'm going to try the shortcut method doing light sandpapering and using Rust-Oleum black and nickel colors for the locks and spare tire racks. &nbsp;Afterwards, I will spray everything down with a WD-40 spray that advertises to specifically help to reduce rusting. &nbsp;If this shortcut method doesn't work, and if things get considerably worse, then I will take the van back to the conversion shop and have them fix the problem. &nbsp;Since I didn't install the items myself, I don't know how to uninstall them, and neither do I want to try. I will update again. Thanks! &nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[MrNoodly]

If your main concern is keeping the rust from getting worse rather than making it look nice, you could try the clear fingernail polish thing mentioned above. Leave everything in place and daub the polish on there good and thick -- several coats. It will seal it from air and water.&nbsp;

 

[Zil]

There is a product called Rust Converter. Many companies have a version. I have used one from Benjamin Moore and one by Rustolium. Let it change the rust to a hard crystallized coat and then paint over as needed. Keep locks lubricated using light oil with graphite.

 

[ZOFCHAK]

When dealing with small rust spots the most important thing is to avoid compromising any of the non rusted finish.&nbsp; Get yourself one of the pens below and a small can of black touch up paint from any auto parts store (Just the kind with the built in brush, not the spray can type.) &nbsp;&nbsp; The sanding pen can be controlled and used to remove just the rust from the tiny area, and then you just lightly hit it with the touch up paint (No primer required).&nbsp; it's also great for touching up stone chips on your vehicle.&nbsp; (Just be careful with the sanding brush as the tiny slivers it produces are nasty little buggers to get in your skin <img src="/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">). <br><br>&nbsp;&nbsp; http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-Intern...9416&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=spot+sanding+pen<br><br><br><br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;*** A word of caution *** WD-40 should not be used anywhere near an area that may be painted. If you end up decided to paint it or touch up the spot again the WD-40 will reek havoc on your paint even if it's been months or longer since you used it.

 

[offroad]

find some brass wool (not steel wool) .&nbsp; It is softer than steel but harder than rust.&nbsp; so leaves no scratches on chrome or anything like chrome.&nbsp; Assume you have some chrome covered surfaces maybe.&nbsp; No one has ever recommended brass wool to keep chrome clean, and it works like magic on it.<br><br>

 

[caseyc]

Hi guys,<br><br>Thanks for your input! &nbsp;Here's an update. See pictures attached.<br><br>Tire rack:<br>I applied the Ace Rust Stop (black color) paint to most of the exposed tire rack. The picture attached doesn't look as good as it does in person, probably due to all the reflection. The paint is a flat black, and I applied it to as much of the tire rack that I could reach without having to uninstall the rack. Let's see how this holds up over time. If it gets much worse in the future, I will simply buy a new tire rack rather than have someone try to fix the rust. &nbsp;I don't remember what a new tire rack costs, but I figure it's more expedient to simply buy a new rack than to fix an old one. &nbsp;If I were to get a new tire rack, I will make sure to apply some type of anti-rust paint before having the rack installed to the door.<br><br>Master lock:<br>I applied the Ace Rust Stop (silver/nickel color) paint to the 2 left and right pieces that hold the "hockey puck" lock. I applied a little more than 1 coat of this paint, and I think it looks pretty darn good! &nbsp;I did this for both locks for the middle doors and rear doors. &nbsp;I did NOT apply this paint to the actual circular hockey puck lock, only to the 2 metal pieces that hold the lock in place. &nbsp;Maybe I should also apply this paint to the actual lock? &nbsp;I don't know. I might have to, but will hold off for now. &nbsp;Yesterday, I noticed a cargo van parked nearby that has exactly the same Master Lock applied to his middle and rear doors. That guy's 2 metal plates already showed corrosion/rust on the plates, especially near the center of the plates. &nbsp;So that tells me positively that the metal plates require some type of anti-rust solution applied to it.<br><br>Anyway, that's what I've done so far. &nbsp;At first, I was only going to dab some of that Ace Hardware Rust Stop paint to the actual rust spots here and then. &nbsp;But then I thought, what the h@ll, just apply the paint to the entire surface as much as I can! &nbsp;That way, it will help to hopefully prevent other rust spots in the future. By the way, I did use a fine sand paper to sand off the rust spots prior to applying the paint.<br><br>Casey<br><br>

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

Looks mighty spiffy <img rel="lightbox" src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="bbc_img"><br><br>After watching a bunch of 50 dollar paint jobs on youtube using rust-oleum, I am seriously considering giving i a shot.&nbsp; I might make it a 100 dollar job and get a wagner spray gun though, instead of rolling it and using the foam brushes.

 

[Wild_E]

Here is a way that is a bit more ECO friendly;<br><br>get a lemon<br>cut in half<br><br>then sprinkle some salt on it<br>or<br>Borax<br><br>take Lemon with the additive,<br>rub the chrome or paint<br><br>To take this to the next level try this<br>60% Borax<br>40% Baking Soda<br>add Salt to the surface of Lemon, then add the 60-40 mixture<br>for added aggressiveness use rock salt&nbsp;<br>sprinkle with water first though as it will scratch the paint<br><br>rinses with water clean away, caution using Clorox or Ajax will scratch most anything and leaves that nasty white stuff behind.

 

[caseyc]

For the heck of it, I even applied the Ace Rust Stop (black colored) paint to my windshield wiper&nbsp;holders&nbsp;the other day.&nbsp; My windshield wipers/holders looked worn out because the original black paint enamel had worn off the metal.<br><br>The first time I applied a coat of the Ace Rust Stop paint, the paint didn't "stick".&nbsp; I literally had to apply at least 5 coats of paints in order to make everything look evenly coated.&nbsp; I had to wait 10 minutes for each coat to dry in the sun, then applied yet another coating. <br><br>Geez, if I knew it would be such a hassle to paint those suckers, I would have just bought new parts to have replaced! <img class="emoticon bbc_img" src="/images/boards/smilies/rolleyes.gif">&nbsp; I will probably end up doing that anyway, but just wanted to try it out first.<br><br>I have attached a picture of the "after" effect.&nbsp; Unfortunately, I forgot to take a before picture.&nbsp; Actually, it doesn't look horrible, just not great. But looks better than before I did anything with it.<br><br>What do you guys think of the pic?<br><br>

 

[caseyc]

Another quick update here.&nbsp; The paint job on the windshield wiper arms looked so bad to me that I couldn't stand it anymore!&nbsp; I ordered new windshield wiper arms and blades from the Ford dealer, and they installed them the other day.&nbsp; Now looks like brand new, haha!&nbsp; <img class="emoticon bbc_img" src="/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif"><img class="emoticon bbc_img" src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif">