Ready to put in Solar

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travelingchic

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I have been using a jumper starter battery and it's been okay for now for powering a fan but I want something that is going to be a more permanent solution for power. &nbsp;<br /><br />I want to do solar but am confused on how to know how much I need in watts or amps. &nbsp;First my budget is about $500 and that includes the battery that I will need. &nbsp;Is it worthwhile to do it with that budget or wait till I could afford more? &nbsp;I can afford more but would really like to keep savings and possibly later on add more power when I start making some money on the road. &nbsp;<br /><br />I would like a minifridge or plug in cooler, mini vacuum cleaner (600 watts), laptop, cell phone, ipod, heater, heating blanket, camera charger, electric kettle, fan, etc. &nbsp; I would like to have two fans going or a more powerful one since it is so hot and no battery can do A/c which sucks. &nbsp;Even though I mentioned all these things in no means am I juicing them all everyday all day. &nbsp;Normally I just hook them up in the library to get them recharged. &nbsp;So I'm not a power hog at all but think it would be nice to have more.<br /><br />I would like to keep to $500 for solar and battery because I need to buy the cooler, mini fridge, electric kettle and inverter still. &nbsp;So max for the whole setup 1k. &nbsp;<br /><br />Anways any suggestions and pin points where to order online that delivers to Canada?
 
You're going to have to forget about a minifridge or TEC cooler, get 12v vacuum instead, likely forget the heating blanket, and probably look for an alternative to the electric kettle depending on its wattage. Do that and your budget is reasonable. Your panels will be about $2 per watt and the cheapest style deepcycle will be about $100. Two batteries would be much better.<br /><br />You&nbsp;might&nbsp;be better off with a small 2 stroke generator and 50-90w panel.<br />Especially in the winter. So that's&nbsp;an option&nbsp;to think about.<br /><br />$100 -battery<br />$150 - generator<br />$150 - panel<br />$75 - charge controller, wiring and mounting brackets<br /><br />There's more than one route you can take you just weigh the pros and cons of each for what you plan to do.
 
Canadian souces make some of the best solar panels available (Carmanaugh). They're based in BC but have outlets elsewhere including Sarnia in Ontario, for one that I know of. But you're going to have to enlarge your budget by a factor of at least four to begin to power those gadgets you list. My first priority was my refrigerator 24/7. It is an Engel chest-type, about the most efficient you'll find. Second was a 700 watt microwave, powered through a PowerWorks 1200 watt inverter that also can do miscelaneous stuff like a one-cup-at-a-time water heater, etc.
 
I guess I either will wait till I can afford to put in a system where I can power the things I want or decide to make a compromise of not having some of the things I want. &nbsp;<br /><br />I know for sure I don't want a generator. &nbsp;It's not just that it will cost gas later on after the initial cost of buying it but also having to find a place for it in a minivan and how to keep the exhaust from being in the van.<br /><br />Solar is the way to go I think. &nbsp;It's a bigger cost at the beginning but it doesn't make sound like a generator and takes up room on the roof not in the inside of my van which is already packed. &nbsp;<br /><br />Vern do you have the website for Canadian souces? I'm guessing sources? I couldn't find it. &nbsp;I am in B.C. so that would be great. &nbsp;<br /><br />ped thanks for telling it to me straight. &nbsp;I guess I will hold tight onto my savings and just buy a cooler and use ice. &nbsp;I'll pay the $1 once a week to vacuum at the gas station and pile on the blankets for when it get's cold out and treat myself to tea at tim horton's once in awhile. &nbsp;<br /><br />Thanks for your input
 
travelingchic, there two ways to go about going solar, 1) is to buy piece by piece, or 2) buy it all at once... I have seen many systems and own my own solar system, I am very convinced that a 165-185 Watt Monocrystaline solar panel will do most of what you want to do, mine is 185W and I have an abundance of power... Next is to buy a MPPT solar controller, I went with a 250W max input controller but there is also a 500W controller if you plan to add more solar panels in the future...The third and most important piece is the battery bank you have, bigger is better and more means power for days when the sun is obscured... The last piece of the solar puzzle is the wiring and fused links...<br /><br />When you decide to part with your money I can help you out with your purchase and installation if you like, just PM me... Best bet is to shop around and look for deals and inform yourself...
 
Alright I am back. I decided to save money instead of going ahead with my low budget for solar.

I have a minivan and still would like to run all the things I described in my initial post without a generator using solar power.

Thanks all to who commented the first time.

If you have suggestions please link to the specific panel since I would like to know exactly where to buy and which one. I am looking for the same info for what battery to buy, converter, inverter basically all the things I would need to set it up.

My budget this time is $1,000 for all parts needed.
Thanks
 
The man that created this site has some good information about solar and RV's. Go to the main site and check all the blogs. $500 is not out of line for a starting solar system. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
A full blown solar system is a little overwhelming so I would recommend breaking it into portions. &nbsp;I am going to list very rough cost estimates (not including labor or special tools needed for install) for each step. &nbsp;These costs could fluctuate very easily.<br><br>Step 1. &nbsp;I would first start with your house batteries. &nbsp;You have to decide where you are going to put them, how they are going to be secured to the vehicle, do they need venting etc. &nbsp;The standard recommended choice is two 6v golf cart batteries hooked together for 12v. &nbsp;Of course you have a huge number of other options. &nbsp;I suggest this as step one because everything else will revolve around there size and placement.<br><br>- two 6v golf cart batteries (standard wet cells) with battery box&nbsp;needed to secure and vent $250<br><br><br><br>Step 2. &nbsp;Charging sources. &nbsp;There are many ways to charge the batteries and most likely you will use more then one method. &nbsp;You do not have to install everything at once. &nbsp;You can first install the batteries and then one charge method, then the next and then the next.<br><br><span style="text-decoration: underline;">A few Ways to charge the batteries (these are the 3 methods I would suggest)</span><br><br>Engine alternator: &nbsp;If you drive at all this is a very good way to charge batteries. highly recommended for bulk charging batteries.<br>- $150 for cabling, fusing, and isolating relay.<br><br>Wall outlet charger: &nbsp;If you have access to 120v house voltage this should not be overlooked. &nbsp;It is a great way to charge batteries and top them off which is very hard if not impossible to do with the other methods listed here. &nbsp;(You said you didn't want one, but this would also be used in conjunction with a generator. &nbsp;The generator being a portable wall outlet.)<br>- $50-150 for charger not including wiring.<br><br>Solar: &nbsp;Odds are the solar system you can afford / fit may very likely be supplemental to the other method listed above. &nbsp;Solar is a massive topic in its own right, I would recommend first getting batteries, installing them, and having one or both of the other charging methods figured out first.<br>- Average cost varies enormously. &nbsp;It also depends greatly on how many panels you can physically&nbsp;fit on your roof.<br><br>
 
Here is the link ccbreder was&nbsp;referring&nbsp;to. &nbsp;&nbsp;http://cheapgreenrvliving.com/How_To_Have_Electricity_2.html<br><br>Do you have any electrical background? &nbsp;For example do you know the difference between&nbsp;parallel&nbsp;and series circuits? &nbsp;Are you installing this yourself? &nbsp;Do you have access to shop tools ie drills saws etc.?
 
Thanks for your replies. I am going to get my dad to help who is knowledgeable with wiring electricity. He just has never installed solar. He has plenty of tools. He is pretty good knowing about voltage and the lingo that is used that makes me scratch my head. I just need to figure out what to buy and hope to learn along the way while installing. He also has a welder for a next door neighbor so he might cone in handy. Left to my own devices I would never dare try to put it together.
 
Ok its great that you have help, here are some links to talk to your dad about to get you started.<br><br>If you can fit them two 6v golf car batteries, they are the best bang for your buck. &nbsp;They can be found for a good price at <a href="http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-egc2/prod3590220.ip?navAction=push" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">samsclub</a>&nbsp;<a href="http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-egc2/prod3590220.ip?navAction=push" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-egc2/prod3590220.ip?navAction=push</a><br>The will need to be secured to the vehicle and preferably in a box that has outside venting.<br><br>For large "catastrophe" fuses I recommend ANL style. &nbsp;They are cheap, they work, and they can be bought at many local stores if you blow one and don't have any spares. They would be placed by your large power sources, example being your new batteries and the alternator when you are hooking that up to charge your house batteries. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-EWFH-...45120&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anl+fuse+holder" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">amazon</a> &nbsp;<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-EWFH-...45120&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anl+fuse+holder" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-EWFH-...45120&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=anl+fuse+holder</a><br><br>when you are charging your house bank from the engine you only want them hooked up when the motor is running. &nbsp;There are many methods of doing this, but imo the most convenient affordable option is to use one of these a <a href="http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power_1314_Battery_Separator_p/sp-1314a-b.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">sure power 1314</a> smart relay. http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power_1314_Battery_Separator_p/sp-1314a-b.htm<br><br>This video shows how to make your own battery cables. Usually you either crimp OR solder. &nbsp;In this video he does both which is basically overkill, but&nbsp;definitely&nbsp;doesn't hurt. &nbsp;The video shows you all the tools used. &nbsp;Some of these are specialty so you should show the video to your dad to see what needs to be bought. &nbsp; &nbsp;<a href="" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a><br><br>Good luck
 
Bee, thank you.<br>The video was the best I have seen for soldering battery cables. <br>He should have named the flux he used, Only use rosin flux on electrical connections.&nbsp; It may not be available in hardware stores but Radio Shack sells it in a can. Can use a small brush to apply the flux to the inside of the lug, after cleaning very well with a wire brush (plumbers have the brush). Solder flows to heat, he showed heating just the end of the lug, good, but he brought heat to the copper wire also, not so good. important to not move the solder connection until cool.&nbsp; <br>I worked in the luxury motor yacht industry. All the 12 volt connections were with crimped lugs. Except the battery lugs, they were soldered. I don't recommend but they made the lugs from copper tube (pipe). Marine wire is tin covered copper stranded.
 
Yeah I have to say, I learned a few things from watching that video. Hopefully I remember them long enough to try out.
 
I bought a Hydraulic Crimper from Harbor freight with coupon for under 50$.<br> &nbsp;The Dies are undersized, but with 30 tons of available clamping force, No solder is getting through the stranding.<br><br>Soldering can be done so wrong, especially on large wires and terminals. &nbsp;I watched my buddy liquify his wiring's insulation, and have a 8 inch section of wire that simply could not flex. &nbsp;He insisted it was fine and wrapped it with electrical tape.<br><br>A few months later he asked to borrow my crimper when his work failed. &nbsp;The inflexible wire broke, and screwed up his battery too. &nbsp;The post kept leaking and growing white corrosion within a few weeks.<br><br>I worked in a boatyard where all large connectors were crimped with a high dollar device, and covered with thick high dollar adhesive lined heatshrink. All smaller wiring, 10 awg or less used special crimps that had adhesive lined heat shrink, and solder within the connector which would melt when the heat shrink was shrunk.<br><br>I employ both solder connections and crimp connections, but rarely do I do both.&nbsp;<br><br><br>
 
<a style="color: #000000; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap;" href="/profile/1980243" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">wrcsixeight</a>&nbsp;is this the crimper you are referring to? &nbsp;<a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html#pr-header-66150" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html#pr-header-66150</a><br><br><br>I don't wan't to clutter up this thread so could we move this&nbsp;discussion&nbsp;to here.<br><br>https://vanlivingforum.com/post/Let...ldering-6244381?pid=1277195550#post1277195550
 
&nbsp;What I use is sections of 1/4" or 3/8" copper pipe, the old stuff that's a bit thicker. Make my own crimp connectors/terminal lugs. Got a pair of lineman's pliers with the rear crimper. Haven't had one fail yet and just as good as store bought.. but way cheaper. ..Willy.
 

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