Question for the mechanics

[Les H]

The oil pan on my bus ( 2000 gmc savanah 3500 srw 5.7L gas ) is rusted from the road salt that was used up north. It leaks ( drips) and it gets on the exhaust when straining uphill. Leaks about 1/4 a cup when parked. Oil pressure is 20 at idle, 35-40 ish in normal driving. I want to replace the oil pan ($115 for pan and gasket kit at advance auto) .I was told by a shop that it involves removing the doghouse, aol cleaner, radiator overflow tank and everything else on the top of the motor,and un bolting the motor mounts to lift the engine far enough for the pan to clear the crank and I beam frame connector. Does this sound right? Or was the shop trying to hit me up for $500 ( the quoted price). It looks to me like it should just drop down, ( though a tight fit) and on a pickup, the cross member is not in the way.
I am a builder and remodeler- no stranger to tools, and if I can get a part off, I can pretty much get it back on and get it to work. But all that i was told it required is a little daunting, especially since I don't have a second vehicle to drive if / when something breaks or goes wrong ( marvelous murphy's law) and I have a gravel drive, no garage.
Any thoughts? Is the garage blowing smoke up my @$$? Or is it really that involved? I'd rather save the $$$ and do it myself if I can, but a shop might be much faster and have a warranty/ guarentee. Lastly, it's not a crucial repair right this minute, but I don't want it to rust totally through and blow it's guts out the bottom.
Thanks for any insight...
Les

 

[stude53]

<P><FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif">How about a patch?<BR><BR>Clean surface, then apply ...<BR><BR>PC7 High Strength Paste High Viscosity Epoxy Adhesive&nbsp;</FONT></P><P><FONT size=3 face="arial, helvetica, sans-serif">PC-Super Epoxy® is a non drip translucent paste epoxy with unlimited uses in bonding, sealing, and as a filler for most materials. From Home owners, Do-It-yourselfers, and professionals <SPAN class="goog_qs-tidbit goog_qs-tidbit-0">such as stair installers PC-Super Epoxy® is the perfect all around adhesive!</SPAN> This paste epoxy was formulated to be extremely versatile, flexible, and resilient with enormous strength. Unlike our other paste epoxies PC-Super Epoxy® is designed to be fast curing. <SPAN class="goog_qs-tidbit goog_qs-tidbit-1">PC-Super Epoxy® has a viscosity similar to Vaseline making overhead and</SPAN> sidewall work easy without drip or sag.</FONT> <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></P>

 

[Guest]

I don't know Les, but often there are various engine elements hanging far enough down so that if you can't drop the pan straight down at least 6"or so.....don't forget your oil pickup hangs down into the lowest portion of the pan.....you won't get it out without what they say need to be done. I lean toward them not blowing smoke up your @$$. Have you asked at a couple places?<br><br>Something that is an incredible fix for things still leaking, even gasoline, is Seal-All:<br><br>http://eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm<br><br>I never drive a vehicle without a tube in the tool kit....<br><br>Good luck Les,<br>bri<br><br>

 

[4x4tour]

Are you POSITIVE it's not the rear main oil seal or oil sending unit? &nbsp;Is there an actual rust hole in the pan? Can you attach some pics of &nbsp;the oil pan, leak, frame area clearance etc...?<div><br></div><div>To PROPERLY lift the motor for oil pan removal clearance (of the frame), it would need to be lifted from the top. &nbsp;Some mechanics will jack it up with a 4x4 under the crank balancer/pulley, but that's a <b><u>severe</u></b> no-no (will bend the crank snout).</div><div><br></div><div>I'd attempt a POR 15 fix first, but that's just me. &nbsp;You'd have to drain the oil, degrease the outside of the oil pan, Then use brake cleaner, then whatever POR 15 tells you to do. &nbsp; POR 15 impervious to oil once its cured on to rusty steel.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>I use the POR 15 "Silver" for plugging/bonding rusted floor panels, then a coat of the POR black (or regular paint) afterwards. &nbsp;The POR 15 black is good to, its just that the silver has filler pieces in it:</div><div><br></div><div>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;<a href="http://www.por15.com/whatispor15.asp" target="_blank">http://www.por15.com/whatispor15.asp</a></div><div><br></div><div>This is what I'd use for your issue (impervious to oil is THE key):</div><div><a href="http://www.por15.com/FIRE-SEAL-2000/productinfo/FS2/" target="_blank">http://www.por15.com/FIRE-SEAL-2000/productinfo/FS2/</a></div><div><br></div><div><a href="http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/fire seal directions.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/fire seal directions.pdf</a></div><div><br></div><div>I have this one, but havent used it yet:</div><div><a href="http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/" target="_blank">http://www.por15.com/PORPATCH/productinfo/PPB/</a></div><div><br></div><div><a href="http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/porpatch directions.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/porpatch directions.pdf</a></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>I hate removing oil pans on chevy small blocks in vans. &nbsp; &nbsp;</div><div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>

 

[Les H]

Stude, I have been leaning towards a patch, if possible. I'm not a fan of liquid steel, and most of the over the counter stuff doesn't work( well or at all) your post sounds curiously like an advertisement, no offense. Do you have any examples of actual stuff you have used it on?

Bri, I was afraid of that, but still hopeful for a relatively easy fix maybe someone on here knows a trick or two and is willing to share?
Pleeebbbbbeeeeesssseeee? ( rodger rabbit)
Les

 

[Les H]

4x4, yes, I am positive. I have known about it for a bit now, but was reminded when I got under the van to change the oilearlier today. I can see and feel ( light touch, don't want to poke it through) the spot. As I said, right now, it's only a drip. Lying on my back under the van, it's foreward of the drain plug on the same side, where the flat bottom of the pan turns up to form the sidewall. I can try to take a pic tomorrow ( Sunday) afternoon. I have heard of PORS15 Before. I did not know it would stand up to internal pressure ( 40 psi) pushing out. I'll look into it . We have an advance auto and oreiley's nearby.
Les

 

[4x4tour]

There's not 40lbs of pressure in the oil pan. &nbsp;The oil pressure is in the bearings/pushrods. &nbsp;Once the oil is pumped to the top of the heads, it drains back down. &nbsp;Inside the oil pan crank case, there's minimal pressure. &nbsp;If there was, oil pan gaskets, timing gaskets, valve cover gaskets etc... would be blowing oil all over the place. &nbsp;&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>POR 15 is designed to adhere to rusty metal. &nbsp;Don't want &nbsp;you to think I'm pushing a product, but, you asked what would work. &nbsp;lol&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>I doubt any stores will have this one, but who knows. &nbsp;</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247); "><div><a href="http://www.por15.com/FIRE-SEAL-2000/productinfo/FS2/" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(59, 89, 152); text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.por15.com/FIRE-SEAL-2000/productinfo/FS2/</a></div><div><br></div><div><a href="http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/fire seal directions.pdf" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(59, 89, 152); text-decoration: underline; "></a><a href="http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/fire seal directions.pdf" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(59, 89, 152); text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/fire seal directions.pdf</a></div><div><br></div></span></div>

 

[bob144]

Les wat about j-b weld

 

[Guest]

You could also always try bartering for the work with a mechanic. Trade a lil' of what you're good at for a lil' of what they're good at. Craigslist is a good place to look - in the wanted section.<br>

 

[Jim]

<font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">If it were me I'd try and get a pan from a salvage yard for 20 bucks or so instead of the new one for $115, but that's just me. Just make sure it's not bent or warped.</font><div><font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"><br></font></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; ">With some of the money you saved buying salvage pan you could get a Haynes manual (not a Chiltons) I think they are around 20 bucks too. They are nice to have around anyway, I keep mine in van in case I need when I'm on the road.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; "><br></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; ">I'm pretty sure you don't have to take everything off the top off motor but the Haynes will confirm that better than my memory.</span></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"><br></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">If you can stay calm,&nbsp;patient and organized&nbsp;you should be ok <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"><br></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">&nbsp;</font></div>

 

[Jim]

Ok, here is what my Haynes says (paraphrased). This is for 68-96 but should be about the same.<div><br></div><div>1.&nbsp;Disconnect&nbsp;negative battery cable.</div><div><br></div><div>2. Remove engine cover.</div><div><br></div><div>3. Remove radiator shroud.</div><div><br></div><div>4.Raise and support vehicle securely.</div><div><br></div><div>5.Drain oil.</div><div><br></div><div>6.If&nbsp;equipped&nbsp;with single&nbsp;exhaust, unbolt&nbsp;cross pipe&nbsp;at manifolds.</div><div><br></div><div>7/8. Remove torque converter (auto trans) or flywheel (manual trans) inspection cover</div><div><br></div><div>9. If V6...N/A</div><div><br></div><div>10. Turn crankshaft until timing mark is poiting strait down.</div><div><br></div><div>11. Remove motor mount bolts.</div><div><br></div><div>12. Raise motor using block of wood on oil pan. Lift approx 3 inches.</div><div><br></div><div>13.Place blocks of wood between crossmember and engine block to hold engine in raise position.</div><div><br></div><div>14. Remove pan bolts.</div><div><br></div><div>15. Remove pan by tilting back and downward.</div><div><br></div><div>I would have to remove the air breather on mine (mine is carberated), hopefully you wouldn't have to remove the intake on yours.</div>

 

[Les H]

I have thought of salvage too. Not ruling it out, but if they go through the trouble of taking a motor out of a van, chances are it's a good motor and they want the pan to go with it.<img src="/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> I have had either a chlorine or Hayes for almost every vehicle I have ever owned. They were sold out last time I looked. ( Gm 350 is one of the most popular engines in the world), but I'll check again after payday.
Thanks,
Les

 

[4x4tour]

Good time to change bearings, while you're a it. &nbsp;lol&nbsp;