Picking the right motor oil

[Vagabound]

It's about time for an oil change on my truck / van (1993 Ford E350). To the best of my knowledge, there's conventional oil in it now (5W-20). I'm told it takes 6 quarts. I have a Haynes manual, but no original manual.

I've been reading up on conventional vs. synthetic oils. I think I have the basic idea, but I'm wondering about how to apply it in my specific case. My vehicle has about 140k miles and I would say that the engine works pretty hard. That's making me lean in the direction of switching to synthetic oil. However, I remember hearing somewhere along the line someone advising against switching to synthetic in older high-mileage vehicles. The information I just read tells me that nonsense and a myth.

This is my main reference so far:
http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/education/know-your-oil/why-synthetic-oil.html

Old wives tales would be interesting, and are welcomed, but if anybody has any way to help me make an intelligent decision here, to include one brand of oil over another, please let me know. And if changing to synthetic, not sure if it makes any sense to go halfway with a synthetic blend first.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[CautionToTheWind]

Recent discussion on CRVL: https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Know-Your-Motor-Oil

 

[MrNoodly]

5W-20 is rather thin unless you spend nearly all your time in very cold places.

 

[user 423]

I just bought a '93 E150 with the 5.8 engine. The recommended oil is 10w30 unless it's cold. For the summer you need at least 10w30 and IMHO 10w40 is better. Just remember to change it to lighter oil when it gets cold. How many miles do you expect to drive by December?

What type of driving do you do? How often do you need to add a quart?

 

[Ballenxj]

I just bought a '93 E150 with the 5.8 engine. The recommended oil is 10w30 unless it's cold.  For the summer you need at least 10w30 and IMHO 10w40 is better. 

When in the desert I always ran 10w40. Now that I'm in a cooler climate it's 10w30.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I had wondered if an oil thread had ever appeared here...on the car and motorcycle forums, oil threads are a constant source of debate.

On an older van with 140k miles with no oil-related problems, why mess with success?

I believe that engine was designed with dino-based oil in mind...seals, gaskets etc on an older vehicle can misbehave and occasionally seep if you make a change...

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Vagabound]

It's funny.  With nearly no exceptions, before I start a new thread, I'll do a good search to see if anything related exists.  Old habit.  But I almost never find anything and then post the new thread.  This time, I was lazy and assumed there were none.  Thanks for pointing out the recent related thread.

Reply to slow2day's questions/comments:

The recommended oil weight is a big confusing.  The Pennzoil website says that 10W30 is recommended.  The autoparts store computer and previous mechanics said 5W20.  Without a manual, hard to know.

How many miles do you expect to drive by December?  

About 3,000-4,000.

What type of driving do you do?  

"Foot on the gas, truck between the lines" type. ;-)  Actually, conservative driving. 50-75% of that total mileage above will be long distance across the top tier states or within the Midwest.  Remainder, daily short distance commuting.

How often do you need to add a quart?

Basically never.  It doesn't seem to leak or burn oil.  I check the oil every other fill-up or so.

Tom

 

[user 423]

The recommended oil weight is a big confusing.  The Pennzoil website says that 10W30 is recommended.  The autoparts store computer and previous mechanics said 5W20.  Without a manual, hard to know.

How many miles do you expect to drive by December?  

About 3,000-4,000.

How often do you need to add a quart?

Basically never.  It doesn't seem to leak or burn oil.  I check the oil every other fill-up or so.

Well, I've had good luck with many vehicles changing dino oil at about 3500mi.(mixed city/hiway). If I do mostly highway,I'll go 4000-4500. I've been using regular Valvoline but buy quarts of WM oil for adding in between changes (mine uses a qt per 1500 mis). Any of the major brands will be fine IMO. For you, I'd put in 10w40 for rest of the summer NOW because 5w20 is too light. If you will be where it gets pretty cold this winter, switch to 10w30. To adjust for seasons, it's also OK to mix viscosities as long as it's the same brand of oil. i.e. 4 qts of 10w30 + 2 qts of 5w20 (cold winters). In the end I believe it's most important to change it regularly.

PS: I think someone on the other thread mentioned that the car companies tend to recommend lighter oil because it helps them achieve their CAFE gas mileage standards. Lighter oil probably IS better on newer engines (~2000 up?) because they have tighter machining tolerances but on older cars, especially heavier vans and trucks, it's better to go with heavier viscosity oils in the summer. Finally, since there are so many different vehicles driven in a million different ways over varying distances per year,it's hard to say what really is the best when it comes to dino vs. synthetic. Like Tx2sturgis said, I'd stick with what your van has been using for years...dino or maybe a blend. JMHO

 

[Vagabound]

Changed my oil and filter yesterday myself. Although I might be able to use more of this information at the next oil change, the photo shows what I went with this time. By the way, according to the O'Reilly store manager, their Microgard filters are made by Wix.

One question: When it comes to topping the oil up as I drive between now and the next oil change, do I just need to stick to the same weight regardless of brand, or something more specific?

Tom

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[wayne49]

Changed my oil and filter yesterday myself. Although I might be able to use more of this information at the next oil change, the photo shows what I went with this time. By the way, according to the O'Reilly store manager, their Microgard filters are made by Wix.

One question: When it comes to topping the oil up as I drive between now and the next oil change, do I just need to stick to the same weight regardless of brand, or something more specific?

Tom

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same weight and type.

If you bought from UHaul call that UHaul and ask what they used. That's what has got the vehicle to now.

If you are at high elevation that might matter in weight. I do not have relevant experience.

 

[Vagabound]

same weight and type.

If you bought from UHaul call that UHaul and ask what they used. That's what has got the vehicle to now.

If you are at high elevation that might matter in weight. I do not have relevant experience.

Hey Wayne,

Oil: By type, you mean conventional, blend, or synthetic?

UHaul: No, I didn't buy it from those apathetic cowards who are too busy hiding in their corporate towers in Phoenix to come downstairs and answer a simple question for someone who is standing there in person. Nor will I in the future, but I digress ...

Elevation: Very shortly that won't be an issue.

Tom

 

[user 423]

5w20 is TOO LIGHT for your van in the summer and actually Ford says it's too light even for winter. I have in my hand the '93 E-Series owner's manual and it specifies 10w30 for temps above 0 degrees and 5w30 for temps below zero. Elevation has no effect, it's the temperature range that matters.

 

[Vagabound]

5w20 is TOO LIGHT for your van in the summer and actually Ford says it's too light even for winter. I have in my hand the '93 E-Series owner's manual and it specifies 10w30 for temps above 0 degrees and 5w30 for temps below zero.  Elevation has no effect, it's the temperature range that matters.

I was never focused on elevation, just couldn't figure out the right oil weight regardless. Although the most common I encountered was 5W20,
any other references I had contradicted each other.
Yours is the first reference that I consider authoritative. Man, I wish I knew that two days ago. If it's not too much trouble, would you mind taking a photo of that page and posting it in this thread?

Now what? Wait to the next oil change to switch weights, or serious enough to do it now? I'm leaning towards waiting because I'm headed into cooler weather.

Tom

 

[user 423]

What temps and terrain are you driving in now? And are you running the A/C?

BTW: Which engine do you have?

 

[tx2sturgis]

5W20 is pretty thin.

If it were me, I would pour in one half bottle of Motor Honey and drive it till the next oil change, which should be done BEFORE winter sets in wherever you are.

When you DO change that treated oil out for winter, make sure the engine is warm when you drain the old oil.

I realize I just poured gasoline on the flame, so to speak...

But back in the old school days of 'cheap living' that what we did...It will add a bit of viscosity and also, elicit negative reactions here...as you will see.

Guys, I have my best flame suit on!




(oil threads...gotta luv em)

 

[Putts]

No, I buy it. If that's what's been run all along and it's not burning oil, seems like Brian's advice is good...if money is tight.

If not, and though not authoritative, I'm voting with everyone else, 5W20 is way too thin. If I had the bucks I'd change it.

Sticking with dino is fine, no need to spend the extra money on synth.


By now on the motorcycle forums three people would have been banned.

 

[user 423]

Now what? Wait to the next oil change to switch weights, or serious enough to do it now? I'm leaning towards waiting because I'm headed into cooler weather.
Tom

It would be a PITA but you could drain the 5w20 into a clean pan and then use a large coffee filter in a funnel to clean it up before it goes into a 5 qt. jug to save for winter oil change. Or you could pull the drain plug and let about 2qts out, put the plug back in (messy,for sure...use glove) and then add 2qts or so of 10w40.

If you'll be in hot weather, pulling mountains or sitting in city traffic with A/C on, you don't want to chance too thin oil harming your engine.

PS: I'll try to get a pic posted of the page in the OM but you can take my word for the accuracy.

 

[Vagabound]

Coming up is mostly highway driving, a few mountains to climb at the very beginning for no longer than a couple of hours, and then everything from that point forward for the rest of the fall and winter is downhill or low elevation. My truck has no A/C, so that part is not a problem.

Oh, the engine is a V8 5.8L 351.

Hmmm.

Tom

 

[user 423]

Coming up is mostly highway driving, a few mountains to climb at the very beginning for no longer than a couple of hours, and then everything from that point forward for the rest of the fall and winter is downhill or low elevation. My truck has no A/C, so that part is not a problem.

Oh, the engine is a V8 5.8L 351.

I dunno dude. The correct oil is pretty important. Do the hassle of removing the 5w20 and have a little more peace of mind. Plus, you will have a "don't wanna do that again" experience. We have the same year and engine although mine is an E150. I just bought a factory service manual off eBay, so in the future I may be able to help with more questions.

 

[wayne49]

Yes, those types.

Sorry for making wrong assumptions.

My experience with 5-20 is in Minnesota winters. -29F the daily high for over a week at a time. I might have used it in Michigan winters, as well.

I have used Castrol 20-50 for summers.