Picking a tow vehicle/field trip mobile...

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Redbearded

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Hi all!

Not sure if this belongs in here or not. I just stumbled into a freaking huge 10k lb trailer and somehow bought it, but now I need to tow it as well. I have been looking at some kind of a diesel vehicle to tow it with, but with all of the different issues I am seeing with trucks in my budget and the crazy costs of repairs, I'm frankly a bit spooked. I don't want to end up buying a 14k truck and end up with another 10k plus to make it reliable, lol.

One of the vehicles I have been researching, is an 07' F450 with 6.0 Bulletproofed engine, but frankly the horror stories of buying a used one is frankly more than I think my budget can handle. Here is something that looks interesting, but would need lots of work to be reliable. https://slo.craigslist.org/cto/d/ford-f450/6478835766.html

 One of the things I have started to consider is going with a gas vehicle even though the mileage won't be as good. One that popped up is a 03' Suburban 2500 with the 8.1L engine and 4wd. I can get into one of those for like 7-8k and it would be something that any garage could work on without screwing up. Plus it looks to be able to tow 12k. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/1k-lower-tiv-2003-chevy/6488674732.html

My plan is to not go for long haul travel except in some kind of emergency, and I'm kinda thinking of using the truck to take some field trips and use the trailer as a basecamp. I plan to travel with the weather as much as possible, and I don't foresee the need to put on crazy mileage (If I do 15k a year I would be surprised), at least until I settle into some kind of pattern.

I'm not afraid to put some money into something that deserves it, but the idea of dropping huge cash to replace/rebuild some of those diesels is nightmarish.

Thoughts and ideas?

Oh, here is the beast I bought I need to tow, lol.
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1989 34' Airstream Limited 
with a dry weight of 7400# and  GVWR of 8900# (I think...)
 

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You might want to consider the medium duty trucks..(class 4, 5, 6, or 7)....sometimes you can find one like this:

https://www.commercialtrucktrader.com/listing/2004-Chevrolet-C4500--5001330032

Or this:

https://www.commercialtrucktrader.com/listing/2005-CHEVROLET-C4500-5000342839

These are made to haul trailers, and with the right hitch installed, can be titled as a private truck or RV depending on the state you live in.

The problem with a large heavy trailer like the one you bought is that most light duty trucks will be at or near their gross weight. 

Look for something that will pull it easily, and safely.
 
If that F450 really has a professional bulletproof job done to it (verify it!) it should be a great truck and will handle that trailer easily.  6.0 engines not bulletproofed are trash, and it is very expensive to bulletproof one. Call the shop that performed it if the paperwork looks sketchy.

Bulletproof job should have cost the owner at least $5k on up to $10k depending on what was done.
 
Any 3/4 ton pickup with a gas V-8 can easily pull that trailer. It sounds like you will only tow it occasionally. Don't over think what you need as the trailer is not that big.
 
You might try a rental and see how you like it. As you know Airstreams hold their value, if it is too big you might even make a profit.
 
There are people out there who say the bullet proof the 6.0 who are copycats.  I have a good friend who paid someone to "bullet proof" his 6.0.  He paid about $8000 as best I remember and it was good for about a year and he traded it to a Ford dealer for a newer 6.7.  One big problem is the major loss you take when you try to unload a 6.0.  I've sold cars for a living before and I couldn't sell anybody a 6.0.  Not even an ex-brother-in-law.
 
I really appreciate the advice! I see that a lot of people say that their truck is "bulletproof", but that has such variable definition and quality of parts, hence my concern about making a very expensive error. I am leaning more towards a gasser at this point just from the simplicity aspect of it. If I was going to put 30k a year on it I could maybe justify a diesel, but at this point that's not what I'm looking to do.

I kinda like the idea of using a diesel box truck, and that may be something I go to later if I decide I want to do lots more mileage.

Closeanuf, I can totally see trying to sell a 6.0 to an ex family member may be a challenge, lol.
 
Redbearded, The 454 2500 series Suburban is one of the best tow rigs you can get if you want one cheap.
They ride excellent and the underneath is built like a tank...with "less harsh springs."
You can get one in excellent shape for $3500-ish with 150,000 or less on it.
The early 90's versions had the L-80 with OD and they are a tough tough bugger of a transmission.
Flush the trans, install good synthetic fluid and make sure your radiator is in good shape...and do not be scared of the age.
These do two things occasionally. They pop the in-tank pumps like any other FI vehicle...and they can pop the ignition.
(You can purchase a reman HEI distributor for under $200 easily. When you have the fluids gone through, pay the mechanic to swap in the new one. Put the known good one in a box in the back. Watch the wrench swap it or learn how to do it on YOUTUBE. If you can swap an alternator, you can easily swap a distributor.) Once you know how, it takes 30 minutes at relaxed pace and you only need to make sure you mark the timing with a Sharpie marker BEFORE your mechanic removes it to get it right. These are not super common issues, but most people avoid older vehicles, thinking new is reliable. With this particular suggestion, the age is not a concern. They were GM's flagship for airstreams in their day and most who bought them did not part with them till way past 200,000 miles.)

If you do not drive the tow-rig a ton, do the math on it. You can buy a LOT of fuel for 10K in purchase price.
I assure you these are supremely reliable. When I retired, I bought one with 150K after seeing how good the engine/trans held up in my customers fleets.
The truck did not disappoint and I could put a 60's era Caddy on the car trailer with ease and it knew no hills. Cruise control up anything in OD 95% of the time @ 70MPH.

(You will get 10-12MPG. 10-12 towing. 10-12 bringing grandma to church...10-12 with the engine off going downhill...LOL but they are reliable as all get-out.)

Were I close to it, this is one I would have a look at:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Chevr...ash=item3d47fc61aa:g:kQ8AAOSwPe9Ztp4X&vxp=mtr

You can just tell even by the pictures that the previous owner took verrrrrry good care of this sweetheart...
 
Thanks JD for the detailed reply! Here is one I am thinking about, it's looks like it was a some kind of support truck or something with only 88k on it and government maintained. Looks like someone took care of it and took the time to build in a box for the rear. It's a bit more money, but it looks like it will last about as long as I could want it to.
 
Redbearded said:
Thanks JD for the detailed reply! Here is one I am thinking about, it's looks like it was a some kind of support truck or something with only 88k on it and government maintained. Looks like someone took care of it and took the time to build in a box for the rear. It's a bit more money, but it looks like it will last about as long as I could want it to.

Looks good.

8.1 is a different motor, but decent AFAIK. (Zero fleet data on them however. They just did not use them in the fleet vehicles I covered.)
Make sure you use the 4X4 when you test drive. Those electronic switchable types are more problematic than the old manual style transfers.
(Not like every one of them has issues though...just something to check before you buy.)



You are going to love that chassis for towing.
 
That 8.1 is way more engine than a 454. I work at a Chevrolet dealer and when those came out many of the local farmers traded up and raved about how strong they are.
Not sure I'd want to tow that trailer with something that didn't have dual rear wheels. But I'm getting old and my sphincter isn't as tight as it used to be.
 
I'm not too worried about dual wheels in the rear because the tongue weight is only ~800lb If I was doing something like a 5th wheel, I would be considering some kind of dually for sure. Plus most of the braking a vehicle does is on the front axle, and I plan on being aggressive with the trailer brakes :)
 
800lb tongue weight is a pretty heavy trailer, that is not a lite weight trailer. actually a 5ver tows much better as the weight is over the axle, your weight is on the hitch which causes leverage and puts more pressure on the rear axle and suspension. highdesertranger
 
It looks like I may have also forgotten to mention that the trailer comes with a weight distributing hitch which should help a bit with stuff.
 
There is no question a gooseneck/5th wheel is better for towing heavier units...if you want to restrict yourself to a pickup and never use the bed of it or put a cap on it.

The vehicle you are now looking at was built exactly for towing units like yours. The weight dist. hitch makes a big difference if set up right.

I can't wait to see your reaction to that 'Burban.
 
You can often tell a lot about a situation by the way a vehicle is outfitted.
From the looks of that one, the way it was modified with the bumper/bed...etc, I see "coal roller who beat it and now wants a new one cause it has been hammered to death."
Guys who baby vehicles seldom choose that look. The FASS fuel system is needed for only one thing...trying to watch the dyno numbers reach 500+ (and after that treatment, you do not want it.)

No talking you out of anything though. You already did it yourself. Diesel just isn't worth it unless you are going to drive the wheels off it.

LOL :) If you have something to compensate for, go check it out. :) LOL

I have towed trailers since I was a kid. Never once towing any of my RV trailers did I need 4X4. Not one time.

More weight and more expense to buy and when repairing. I prefer the simplicity/MPG of 2WD.
(...and a completely 100% stock vehicle. Especially avoiding trucks with "go fast" parts installed.)
 
By the way, how strange they use a lift pump on the buses and not on the pickups.
Engineers make me scratch my head...and rather often.

The 24 Valve Cummins will run fine without the tank pump...till your injection pump does not get enough fuel through it to effectively cool it and it pops, costing big.

The little tricks for each of the "big three" diesel offerings have their own gremlins. :(

I'll take a GM truck with the big Ford straight axles and a Cumminsin front of a massaged NV4500 and a Con-O-Clutch by south bend, thanks.
(A nice white, four door with leather, the monster arctic fuel heater and an 8 foot bed with matching tall cap on the back. Locker rear. Twin tanks and factory towing setup for the rear with diamond deck bumper.)
:) :) :) :)
 
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