it only takes a few minutes of your time at an auto parts store for them to run a battery drain test and also check the charging system. all free of charge. if a new battery is needed a Walmart battery is the way to go they are good battery's.
Great idea, Denny!it only takes a few minutes of your time at an auto parts store for them to run a battery drain test and also check the charging system. all free of charge. if a new battery is needed a Walmart battery is the way to go they are good battery's.
I took my van's battery to the store today, as you suggested. They didn't even have to use their tester because of the sides being so bulged out. The girl explained that when the sides of a battery bulge out like that, it means the cells are swolen inside and the battery is DEFINITELY bad, no doubt about it. So she sold me the $69 new battery, and I was happily on my way. Thanks again for stating what I needed to do!it only takes a few minutes of your time at an auto parts store for them to run a battery drain test and also check the charging system. all free of charge. if a new battery is needed a Walmart battery is the way to go they are good battery's.
Batteries get "sulfated" as they are ran extremely low. This causes very low performance. SOMEtimes they can be helped (repaired?) with a special charging method. Try solar installers to see if they can do this. Or, maybe auto sound system installers, they often run a separate battery for big systems. I don't know if they do this, it might be worth a try.I'm sure you are correct in many if not most cases, and gave good advice.
But in my case, I had this problem two years ago of cranking and cranking and no start. I was told "if you've got enough power to crank the engine, it's not the battery because that's enough power for a spark and gas. However, when I fully charged the battery, it started right up! So I bought a new battery which solved the problem that year. It was the most expensive battery -- about $300 -- but I think I have abused it so much it's now mosying slowly toward "The Elephant Grave Yard". So this time I'll take tzagi's advice and just get the $69 battery; he said it can't be beat.
Well, I did it. This morning I connected the $69 battery, and the engine started right up like it had not done in ages. No "chug-chug-sputter-chug" first or repeated tries. Fantastic cure! Someone should write a song titled, "What a difference a battery makes."
Thanks Maddad63. You are so correct. I learned these things rather slowly. Hope others are learning from you a lot faster. I bought a new battery, and then ran it down twice during the next year, so I recently had to buy a new battery, again. But this time, I went a step further and purchased the below battery disconnect switch which I use every time I turn the engine off for more than an hour. The result is that now my van starts instantly, every time! So again I say, you are SO correct!I am hoping the OP was able to fix his van. Depending on the year of your vehicle cranking voltage level is critical for maintaining minimum battery voltage for the PCM ( engine computer). When that voltage level drops below it minimum…. The PCM will not stay powered up. Thus….no ignition…no fuel injection….
Quick test….. turn your key on….the check engine light should come on….. start to crank….light should stay on until engine starts…and then if no problems…light will go off. If light goes off while engine is cranking….usually means the PCM isn’t receiving enough voltage.
Usually a weak battery or a starter circuit is drawing too much cranking volts
Any questions…just ask