Looking to get me a TOAD

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I'm a little confused by the claim that there are "locking hubs on all four corners".  Never seen locking hubs on a rear axle before.  Why would you want to disengage the rear wheels so they won't be driven by the engine? 

Claims to have a full roll cage.  I would verify that you can put a roof on it or get a soft top up without the cage interfering.

The description of it as the perfect hunting jeep makes me wonder about whether it can be run on the road?  Almost looks like the guy flat tows it to where he's going to hunt, and only uses it off-highway.
 
Yes and thank you for a response I will look very close at the mods, he does in fact tow to the "spot" which is what I am going to do, it had a steel top but he chucked it as it was messed up. Too bad, ATV quads are not cheap, figure to kill 2 birds with one stone.
 
Okay here we go. Locking hubs on rear is one way to flat tow with out dropping the drive shaft. It is also something else that requires maintenance. That year CJ should have a Buick odd fire V-6 I believe my 1968 did and it also had a T14A tranny but that may have been the first year for that. I broke it in half jumping a school bus while adjusting a helm joint home made clutch linkage weak spot in the frame right at the seat area so look that over for cracks. Original body mounts are probably gone so look for urethane replacements or it will need them. Steering box fix is to put a GM box right behind the bumper on the frame. O.riginal had a drag link to bell crank that always had play and is the reason most of us drive with our thumbs up, hit a rock steering wheel kicks back and breaks your thumb when the spoke hits it. Had several Suzuki Samurais and liked them much better for flat towing and maintenance but shorter wheelbase and high wall you end up setting on the spare mounted tail gate.
 
bullfrog said:
Okay here we go.  Locking hubs on rear is one way to flat tow with out dropping the drive shaft.

Never heard of dropping a driveshaft on a Jeep.  Just put the transfer case in Neutral and go.  Thought dropping driveshafts was only on 2WDs with auto trannys that would be damaged if the rear end caused them to turn and the engine wasn't running.  What am I missing here?
 
Once again you flat out rock with info printed out and in the checkpoint whatever I git we will rock out and I'm buying the beer, wtf at 69 it's all borrowed time, thanks again guys and gals
 
Optimistic Paranoid said:
Never heard of dropping a driveshaft on a Jeep.  Just put the transfer case in Neutral and go.  Thought dropping driveshafts was only on 2WDs with auto trannys that would be damaged if the rear end caused them to turn and the engine wasn't running.  What am I missing here?
Almost always you can but you are still turning a diff, shaft and gears that reduce miles per gallon on tow vehicle and increase wear on jeep plus if your lucks like mine you hit a big expansion joint in the freeway at seventy, the transfer case shifter is a little worn, it pops into gear, and because you left the trans in reverse to keep the idle gears in the transfer case from spinning, it breaks the transmission off at the engine cracking both the engine block and transmission case.  Sure wish I had realized that could happen before it did.
 
not to get too complicated here BUT, if it tows free it does accomplish my dream tow machine.
 
for wheel locking hubs used to be a popular add on. made for easy flat towing and yes you could flat tow without them but read the post above. the first one looks like a nice one, but it's hard to tell from an ad. it also has on board air, and a Warn 8274 winch same winch I have on me truck. that winch will pull that Jeep up a tree. it also has 4 wheel disc brakes, I wonder what it does for an E-brake. the off road thing is kinda funny, I don't see a plate, but then it would need a green sticker and I don't see that either. the second one is a better price but doesn't have all the add ons. a Jeep toad is a great idea for an off road vehicle, plus they are street legal. highdesertranger
 
Took me a while to sober up to the fact I have no way to store this jeep and yes been looking at Willys, oh well calling the whole thing off, it was fun for a while.
 
I'd caution you on a Willys, unless you're short and only plan to drive slow from camp to trail. I've had lots of Jeeps over the years, including building one Willys out of 5 junk ones. They are fun, but not real practical on the road at todays speeds. And at 6' tall they have a definite lack of leg room. There are mods you can do to steering, suspension, etc... to make them more road worthy. But by then you have a good chunk of change into them. I would suggest a later (1978 - mid 1980s ) CJ7 or early Wrangler. They can be had for almost the same price and are much better drivers on the road. My current Jeep project, a 1979 CJ7 Renagade that's all original I traded $500 labor for and drove it home. It needs new tires and a rebuild of the carb before being truly road worthy, but thats about it. I plan to do much more as the body is pretty rough, but I can go exploring in the mean time.
 
I have been doing more research and learning about the pitfalls and do not need a money pit, and as for a willys not really looking for a highway driver
my search now would include a strip down 60's MUTT on a flatbed with some storage for some trips to turquoise country with an old friend in Northern Nevada this coming spring. A bit hard to find and not cheap in original condition.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M151_Truck,_Utility,_1/4-Ton,_4×4
 
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