Load D vs Load E van tires

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bigsallysmom

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Got a 17', 1997 Dodge 3500 class b high top which needs new tires.  I'm near a Walmart and Discount Tire plus a couple of local tire stores in Alamogordo, NM.  It has a back 2" hitch where I would put a cargo carrier before I'd think about pulling a trailer.  I'd probably be driving 70% highway, 20% sand/gravel, and 10% oh-crap-there's-no-place-to-turn-around-so-I-have-to-keep-going.
Been doing my research but it gets a bit confusing.
The stickie on the inside of the door says LT225/75R16D.  GAWR=3600 front, 4670 rear.  Because I will be driving on some fairly rough forest roads which can be really tough on tires, should I bump from load d to load e and why or why not?
 
Personally I would go for the E rated tires, they have a higher ply rating and will take a higher PSI which you will need for the weight of a Class B with a high top and a travel load.

The  high top changes the center of gravity which affects cornering therefore needing a stiffer sidewall that the E will provide.

You don't just need them because of the forest road but also for highway driving.
 
Go with higher load rating for all the reasons above.
People underestimate the role tires play in handling, especially with high COG vehicles.
 
I always recommend "E" tires for off road. check the rating of your rims. highdesertranger
 
Use chassis manufacturer's recomendations.


A thing thats certain, people are now going to insist you put the nifty 85 PSI in those. Load range E tires. You can already see that starting- no idea what it actually weighs, but sure it's going to need more pressure.
. Grossly overinflating for load is bad.

The manufacturer knows what they are doing- and is liable for their assertions.

People on an internet forums- just to be blunt- have no business second guessing the manufacturer, giving arbitrary recomendations, vehicle sight unseen.
 
first off the manufacturer never meant that vehicle to be driven off road. second off why would you fill the tires to max psi, you only fill them to what is needed in fact when driving off road most people run their tires at lower psi. on pavement why fill them to 85 psi when you only need 60. third I told them to check their rims. they will have the max weight and psi stamped into them. in the backcountry of Arizona, Nevada, eastern Oregon, and eastern California the roads eat tires. literally. auto manufacturers never intended or designed the vehicles to be driven on these roads. highdesertranger
 
The manufacturers' sticker was applied while it was still on the production line.

It was sold off the production line as an incomplete vehicle and shipped to whatever secondary manufacturer turned it in to a Class B vehicle.

The OEM sticker does not take in to account the effects of the high top nor the added burden of all of the interior components.

If in doubt, get the vehicle to a weigh scale and check the weight and proceed accordingly.
 
A lady gets one of those hooks from a rubber snubber in her tire, van rolls over, she's under the dog house, getting scalded by engine coolant. (true story)

Tells insurance company she was told to change tire types from factory recomendations-

Lawyers are very good at spotting revenue streams-

About five minutes into a deposition things become extremely clear-
 
I would go load-range E.. A fully equipped 1-ton Dodge class-b is heavy... Especially at the back.
 
I believe Escapees offers a program at some of their gatherings for beginning RVers that has the vehicle weighed as well as inspected for and recommended load balancing by experts in the area. I would think that by talking with them, considering manufacturing recommendations and a little experience to determine your individual need would be in your best interest. In my experience very few tires can take the abuse that I put them through and just have to face the fact that if I go off road I'm gonna hole one occasionally, and no matter how I try sometimes I'll over load them so if I can afford a load range E tire I'll buy one but if not as a minimum I'll get the manufacture's recommended load range and deal with the problems I create more often usually punctures and quicker wear rate. I have saved money buy getting cheaper 60,000 mile tires and having them replaced at 30,000 miles of highway driving but hate having twice as many flats off road which I seem to do. This is just my opinion, but if I can afford it I would get the load range E.
 
UptownSport said:
A thing thats certain, people are now going to insist you put the nifty 85 PSI in those. Load range E tires. You can already see that starting- no idea what it actually weighs, but sure it's going to need more pressure.
. Grossly overinflating for load is bad.

If people say things that are wrong, or you are sure they are wrong, then you should politely correct them--no problem with that.

However, you please need to let them say it before you correct them, I think the forum will work much better that way.
 
Yes, that's true- I seem to have a thing for tires, LoL
Yet people make it down the road without my input everyday-
Much ado about nothing.

Next, lets talk about caps ... LoL
 
My 99 Ford E250 door sticker shows the tires as LT225/75R16E. This is for a 3/4 ton van. I can't imagine why a 1 ton van would specify a lesser tire (except maybe ride comfort?).
Something to consider though, is what were the available 'option' tires offered for that model. That usually gives another choice 'approved' by the manufacturer.
My van had LT245/75R16E as an option, so that is what I recently changed up to.
The new "stance" looks great...however, being a slightly larger diameter, my speedometer now reads 4 mph slow.
For a 3500 series model (1 ton), I would definitely recommend an E load tire.
 
good question Johnny. I can't see why any 3/4 or 1 ton should have an "E" tire for at least an option. what's really funny is the 3/4 ton with 15 inch rims. what's up with that? highdesertranger
 
I double checked the door. Definitely a D. Alamogordo has a public scale and I will be going there to weigh it before I buy tires.

Went over to discount tire. They had only one off road load e tire on site. Then I went home and looked online. They have quite a few more there, I just have to wait for 4-5 days to get them shipped.
 
UptownSport said:
A lady gets one of those hooks from a rubber snubber in her tire, van rolls over, she's under the dog house, getting scalded by engine coolant. (true story)

Tells insurance company she was told to change tire types from factory recomendations-

Lawyers are very good at spotting revenue streams-

About five minutes into a deposition things become extremely clear-

Can't see how going from a D tire to a higher rated E tire would be cause for any liability issues......maybe going from a D to a P rating, but what's wrong with improving on OEM specs?
 
Go with the E... you will thank all us Thumbs Up To E peeps : )

On brand/model? There are many to choose from, and the one i really like in that size (and have on our rig 2) is the BFG KO2. It is among the top picks in nearly any article on all terrain / all season tires.

Thom
 
LT225/75R16-D is rated at 2,335lbs at 65psi or 4,670lbs GAWR
LT225/75R16-E is rated at 2,680lbs at 80psi or 5,360lbs GAWR

Given that the original poster listed his GAWR=3600 front, 4670 rear, D's will do the job.
But going with the E is definitely an added measure of safety and will improve handling in terms of sidewall flex and sway.

To Uptownsport's point regarding inflation of a load range E...
I would start at the recommended 80psi and see how it handles.
If it is exceptionally stiff riding and sway seems well controlled, reduce 5psi and see if there is any improvement.
Lather, rinse, repeat.
Under no circumstances would I go below the door sticker inflation pressure or the 65psi of the D rated tires, whichever is higher.
 
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