Is it true that you have to turn off your fridge if your rig isn't parked level?

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magentawave

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Is it true that you have to turn off your fridg if your rig isn't parked level? How do you guys deal with that? What about putting the fridge on gimbals?<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Steve
 
Only if you have one of those crappy 1-3 way ammonia cycle absorption fridges (within abt. 3 deg). I've got a 12 v compressor fridge and can park at up to 30 deg. ..Willy.
 
So the key is to buy a "1 way" 12 volt DC fridge? Is it freon that makes your fridge more forgiving when parking at an angle?
 
If you do a lot of dry camping, you probably need to stick with the LP option, IMHO.
 
&nbsp;I have a Waeco 12/24 v fridge and, except for a $2 switch I replaced, it's cost me $0 for the 6 yrs I've used it.. powered off my solar panels (110 Watts, and that's for EVERYTHING) and I basically live on the road and in the hills. The fridge is turned on 24/7, though the compressor might only kick on once an hour and only for a few minutes. I dunno if it uses freon, since I think they've been changing stuff around, but it works basically like a household fridge with a super efficient Danfoss compressor. ..Willy.
 
I have a 3 way fridge,from the 70's it says in the manual that it will operate within 6* of level. 30* is a healthy roof slope ( 8/12 pitch) certantlty not anything you would choose to sleep or camp on if you can help it. My 3 way cost me around $100 used, but would be give or take $500 if I bought it new. An Engle or comparable 12 v fridge will be about $500 also if bought new. I went with what I had because it made more ecconomic sense.
 
I wouldn't want to sleep at 30 degrees <img src="/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif" alt="" align="absmiddle" border="0" />&nbsp;but what do you do if you want to park the vehicle somewhere on a hill <span style="text-decoration: underline;">for the day</span> because you're off doing something else? Do you just never park on a hill beyond a few degrees or do you turn off the fridge and hope its insulated enough to keep everything cold until you come back?
 
Steve, that's a good question. I'd prefer not to leave my van like that at all on that kind of slope, but I'll have to check the PDF on the fridge. I don't know if that's (as I suspect) in propane mode only, or in 12/110 mode. I can tell you that it uses 95 w at 110 v, or about 8 amps, so pretty much use 12v only when driving, my little 45 w solar system couldn't hope to keep up for long. I DO know the engle/Waco are much more efficient, though, as I said before, much pricier. I'll get back to the thread when I have a chance to look it up and be sure. Though there are some highway grades in the 8-10% range, secondary and back -back roads can be far steeper, so now I'd like to know too....
 
&nbsp;See, that's what I like about my Waeco.. just leave it on cuz it doesn't matter. One thing to remember with those absorption is to turn off the propane cuz: a) Go to fill up w. gas an' she go KABOOOM! and b) Asmentioned, parking on a slope which then causes the fridge to cook itself; bye bye fridge. The latter also holds true for when it's switched to 12v.<br />&nbsp;One other thing I like about the compressor fridges is the short time it takes for them to cool stuff down, and how cool they can get. I have mine set as, quite literally, a deep freeze. There's a compartment to the side which stays somewhat warmer and that's where I put stuff like my cream 'n pickles 'n such. ..Willy.&nbsp;
 
Willie:&nbsp; Thanks for the info about the gas needing to be turned of while gassing the RV.&nbsp; Never heard, not would have thought of that.&nbsp; Learning more every time I check in here.&nbsp;
 
I'm going through an excellent thread about refrigeration (Thank gawd for the internet, eh?) here&nbsp;<a href="http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5723">http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5723</a> and everything Willy has been saying about Waeco being bullet proof reliable and cheap to run seems to be the consensus. They aren't cheap though.<br /><br />Whats the downside to using one of those small cheap 110 volt fridge/freezers with an inverter instead of a 12 volt unit?
 
The old saying about how much slope a fridge can handle: a half bubble off level. If the fridge isn't level, as I understand it, the heating element is no longer covered by the gas (freon) and overheats.
 
josephusminimus said:
Willie:&nbsp; Thanks for the info about the gas needing to be turned of while gassing the RV.&nbsp; Never heard, not would have thought of that.&nbsp; Learning more every time I check in here.&nbsp;
<br /><br />And it's not the propane but the ignition spark that is the potential problem.&nbsp;
 
I don't have a compressor type frig, I have a Coleman 12 volt frig/cooler.&nbsp; It keeps food cold enough for a few days storage and can be used standing up or laying on its side. I've had this one for about a year without any problems but I do have to defrost it about once a week.&nbsp; I've read comments from others about the problems they have had with this model unit but so far I haven't had those issues.&nbsp; The negative comments I read were about the unit plug melting or catching on fire or the fan going bad. After reading about the compressor type units available now, I think my next unit will be one of the better ones so I can have a freezer and longer cold storage.
 
There was one guy on that other forum (link above) that said DC fridges don't cool the food well enough which is why he uses propane. Any thoughts on that?<br /><br />Since this will be my full time home I want as large a fridg/freezer as I can stuff in there. What about building my own DC fridge? You know, buy the parts and build a well insulated box. Has anyone done that?
 
"When the trailer is on tow, the continuous rolling and pitching movement will not normally affect the operation of the refrigerator, but when the trailer is parked for more than a short period, the sensitivity of the refrigerator should be remembered"
this is the only quote from the pdf that seemed relavent. Since all propane fridges warn you to turn off all pilot lights when refueling. in fact , your cell phone and ignition should be off too, and you should ground yourself out by touching part of the metal skin to discharge static electricity. It is poszible to drive in 110 mode through an inverter, but 12v mode was designed to be used while in motion. Since 12 and 110 v operation are not open flame, it IS poszible to refuel ( change propane tank) while in operation, though i would not, and would strongly reccomend against. i have a 12 v cooler ( got it for $18 at a fkea mkt, 60 qt size), not a chance in h@@l it would freeze up, only goes 40* below ambient temp, to a low of 40* . It WILL KEEP STUFF COLD, but nainly drinks on a hot day, and it is a power hog. Id love to have one of the true 12 v fridges, but.....$$$$. If you are in BelAire, theres a 3 way fridge posted two days ago on CL for $60.00. Not bad when a new 12v thermo electric cooler will set you back $79-99 bux depending on what size you get and where you purchase it.
 
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