Help us set up our solar please!

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TheKarmaVan

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
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Location
Austin, TX
Hi everyone! So my partner and I are both confident in our ability to set this stuff up on our own with help from online guides but we also took into consideration just how much money we've spent on all the components. The last thing we want to do is fry our whole setup with bad connections or just a silly mistake. We want to charge our batteries with solar, the alternator and using shore power. Below I will list what we have for the solar setup, what we need still and what will be running on the system.

What we have in our solar setup:
  1. 2x 100w Renogy Monocrystalline Rigid Panels
  2. 40amp MPPT Renogy Charge Controller
  3. 12v 1000w Pure Sine Inverter from MicroSolar
  4. Multiple 100amp gold-plated ANL fuses
What we still need(please make suggestions of what we should get with our current setup)
  1. 2x 6v AMG batteries wired in series (how many amp hours would you recommend we get?)
  2. Battery Relay Isolator (we were thinking of going with the stinger sgp32 200amp)
  3. Shore Power Cord (we actually have no idea of how this works or what we need. Please Help!
What we have connected to our batteries
  1. Haier 1.7 CuFt Fridge/Freezer, 120v, 200kWh
  2. 12v 600Led light strip, 9.6w/meter
  3. MaxxFan Deluxe 7000k
  4. 2 phone chargers
  5. 2 laptop chargers
  6. Small 12v fan
Any help would be greatly appreciated. We'd like this to work on the first try but I know that so many things can go wrong. If you have any questions or if I've failed to mention anything please let me know.
 
that's a pretty inefficient refrigerator. plus on Amazon the seller recommended that it is not for mobile use. without that refer you are fine with the 2 batteries, with the refer you might have to watch your power usage especially with multiple cloudy days. IMO you would be better off with a 12v refer. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
that's a pretty inefficient refrigerator.  plus on Amazon the seller recommended that it is not for mobile use.  without that refer you are fine with the 2 batteries,  with the refer you might have to watch your power usage especially with multiple cloudy days.  IMO you would be better off with a 12v refer.  highdesertranger

Hmm..we tried doing some research and thought that with the alternator and shore power on cloudy days that we would be okay. I've also seen some youtube videos with similar fridges that work okay even with 100w. We aren't clear on how they've manipulated the compressor to work on that little power but you can watch it here. 



We really appreciate the advice though. 12v is just so expensive. If we need to make the change we will but if anyone knows of a way to make our system work please let us know.
 
Where are you located?

There are members all over willing to help.  

I have about four systems heading my way for assistance.
 
GotSmart said:
Where are you located?

Their profile says "Austin, TX".

I am not even close, and even if I was, I would be of no help with this... sorry.

If I were you, TheKarmaVan, I would save some money and get a proper 12V fridge/freezer. Every youtube that has a Whynter, Engel, Dometic says that this was the best investment...
 
Yes we are in Austin, TX. I'm also starting to think the same thing about the fridge the more I look into it. It would save me a lot of worrying about ruining the battery with not getting it up to full charge.
 
If you make it up to I~70 in MO, I can help with instalation.
 
The Max Burton 12v fridge/freezer was in a recent thread for under $300 and seemed to be doing well.
 
We might start shopping on craigslist for the fridge and sell the current one. I'm not sure yet.

Any pointers on shore power?
 
TheKarmaVan said:
Any pointers on shore power?

Don't trust it.

The shore power pedestals in campgrounds are exposed to the weather and are often old.  This often leads to corroded connections which can lead to high resistance and high resistance causes heat.  There have been cases of the plugs on power cords being damaged by this heat.

The shore power pedestals are often maintained by camp "handymen" instead of real electricians.  It is not unknown that they can be miswired with hot and returns reversed, return and safety ground reversed, safety ground loose and not making good contact, etc.

Finally, in a crowded campground, on a hot day, when everyone's air conditioner is running, it's not unusual  for the power to dip down into the brownout zone.

At a minimum, you need to test the pedestal with a voltmeter and one of those little, three light testers before you plug in.  It's also a good idea to have that voltmeter plugged in in your rig where you can keep an eye on it.

People with the big fancy rigs often invest in devices like the Hughes Autoformer or a good surge guard unit.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-80-300V...8-1-fkmr0&keywords=120+volt+plug+in+voltmeter

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instr...&qid=1493665900&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+tester

https://www.amazon.com/Hughes-RV213...=1493665952&sr=8-3&keywords=hughes+autoformer

https://www.amazon.com/Technology-R...rd_wg=w7U2a&psc=1&refRID=960C7CE6HEGVKF1QDC05
 
We're also trying to wire the alternator as a secondary charge source for our battery. Do you think that's enough charge to keep our battery banks full if it's 2 6v batteries in series with 235aH?
 
Only if you plan on driving 10 hours a day.  

It is a good way to help, but not efficient at all.
 
The folks in the video you linked to have 300 watt solar and their fridge set up uses 30 amp hours per day  That solar and fridge probably works OK.  If you get a 20 amp hour per day fridge your 200 watt solar will probably be adequate.  The key to solar success is conservation.  Use LED lights, cook with combustion, don't waste your 200 watts with wires that are too small or too long, turn off the TV and you should be OK.  

Unless you will be driving a lot anyway don't count on your alternator for much.  Having it is good but try to avoid planning to depend on it.

Have a volt meter and know how to use it.  When your battery gets too low be able to turn off loads.  It makes economic sense to turn off the fridge that has $20 worth of food in it to defend the $200 battery.
 
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