Generator choke mod

[Mobilesport]

I want to install a 12 volt actuator to my Honda eu 2000i generators choke , i don't know what type of actuator  i need or how to wire it up.
I think i need a 12 volt linear actuator with a 2 inch stroke.
Applying 12 volts i can get it to move one direction but then how do i reverse it?
The second picture is how its setup right now , it has a manual choke from Northern tool , i want to change it to electronic controlled by 12 volts.
The manual choke works but gets stiff i believe from corrosion of some sort , even though i oil it sometimes

 

[B and C]

Reverse the polarity to make it go back.  

I don't know much about "actuators" and if they can handle constant voltage.  Check the spec's before trying a regular double pole double throw switch as that would leave voltage on the actuator all the time.  You may look into a momentary contact DPDT switch.

 

[highdesertranger]

I would fix the problem with the sticky choke. much simpler and more reliable. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

It looks like you have a pull to choke and push to run cable connected to your choke.  The first picture is misleading as it shows an entirely different choke setup with a lever.

With the cable disconnected, does the choke work OK?
Does the cable move freely in the sleeve?

I've had old lawnmowers that had this pull/push arrangement for the throttle.  When it got difficult to use, the cable was sticking inside the sleeve.  No matter how much oil I put down the cable, the problem was back in short order.  Probably rust in there.  The only fix that I have done that cured it was to replaced the cable/sleeve assembly.  These cables are relatively cheap and can be cut to the length needed by removing the cable, cutting the sheath, putting the cable back in and cutting cable to length.  A couple of needle nose pliers to make the bends in the cable.  If this is a specialty choke cable, does Honda have a replacement?  Model number and serial number of the gen set will probably be required.  A lawnmower shop should be able to fix it for you too.

 

[Mobilesport]

I would fix the problem with the sticky choke.  much simpler and more reliable.  highdesertranger

I started thinking that maybe when i set it up that i may of used a spring thats to stiff , i'm going to look into it.

 

[Mobilesport]

If you go to the U-Pull-It check out solenoids used in hatch/trunk release mechanisms. There should be a return spring in the solenoid to retract when not energized, another spring on the choke lever will return that to off. I don't see the 'why' of this project unless you have converted the generator to a remote start with an electric starter. After all you will be pulling a starter rope that is about a foot from the manual choke lever.

Guy

All controls are inside , pull string comes thru the floor

 

[Mobilesport]

It looks like you have a pull to choke and push to run cable connected to your choke.  The first picture is misleading as it shows an entirely different choke setup with a lever.

With the cable disconnected, does the choke work OK?
Does the cable move freely in the sleeve?

I've had old lawnmowers that had this pull/push arrangement for the throttle.  When it got difficult to use, the cable was sticking inside the sleeve.  No matter how much oil I put down the cable, the problem was back in short order.  Probably rust in there.  The only fix that I have done that cured it was to replaced the cable/sleeve assembly.  These cables are relatively cheap and can be cut to the length needed by removing the cable, cutting the sheath, putting the cable back in and cutting cable to length.  A couple of needle nose pliers to make the bends in the cable.  If this is a specialty choke cable, does Honda have a replacement?  Model number and serial number of the gen set will probably be required.  A lawnmower shop should be able to fix it for you too.

Exactly ,  i oil the cable and it aint long before its stiff again , i thought about replacing the cable but my cable is'nt very old therefore a new cable would'nt last long either , that's my thinking

 

[highdesertranger]

if it's fairly new isn't it still under warranty? the cable housing should have a nylon lining therefore rust should not be an issue. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

OK, I'll ask.  

Why is there a big spring on the choke lever?  Once running, the choke should hold itself open.

Did the original setup have a spring? If it did, reuse that spring.

I did not know that you had already modified it before it started acting up.  I thought it was stock as you didn't mention modifications. :huh:

I am guessing that it hard to pull the choke handle out but goes in easy.  You may have worn a groove in the sleeve from all that resistance of the spring.  You might try rotating the whole sleeve and cable assembly 180 degrees to free it up after removing the spring.

Hope this helps!

 

[Mobilesport]

@ B and C
The Hondas choke is normally in the off position (left)
I pull the choke (up) that i installed and the cable pulls the Hondas choke to the on position (right) , lets say 10 seconds later The Honda is warmed up so it needs the choke off , i push the choke knob (down) which pushes the cable which pushes the Hondas choke to the off position (left) , the spring helps pull the Hondas choke to the off position and makes sure the choke is all the way off.
The cable would push the choke to the off position without the spring but the cable is thin and
it would flex , with the spring there it relieves the cable ( the spring does the work of returning the Hondas choke to the off position but only after i push the choke knob down that i installed.

 

[B and C]

I understood how it worked by looking at the picture.  I have hooked up many on my old hot rods.

The choke itself operates freely if the spring and cable are removed?

If the choke itself is sticking, you may need to get that fixed.  On automotive choke shafts, there was a teflon bearing/sleeve that the choke shaft went through that then was in a hole in the throttle bore side.  When you look down the bore, the shaft goes from one side to the other with the choke plate attached to the shaft.  If this bearing/sleeve is damaged, the choke will be hard to operate.  OTOH, the throttle body where the choke is may just be gummed up and needs cleaning.  I like seafoam instead of regular carb cleaner.  Carb cleaner used to be tough on those teflon bearing/sleeves.

If the choke operates freely then the problem is the cable setup.

So with a thin cable, it flexes too much to push it open.  Supporting the end of the sleeve where the cable comes out may help with that problem some.  If you can move the sheath as close to the choke as you can without interfering with the choke movement would help with that tremendously.  If the sheath then moves to much as it sticks way past any support would be to help stiffen the sheath.  Try placing a stiff rod/stick alongside the sheath and tying the sheath to the rod in several places.

Universal choke cables are cheap if what you have won't reach.  You just have too much unsupported length of cable and sheath.

 

[Mobilesport]

@ B and C 
I'll look into supporting it better

 

[B and C]

After stepping away from the computer for a bit, I had the thought that your choke may have a detent on it to help hold the choke closed and you are then having trouble pushing it open because the detent has too much friction.  If this is the case, look into reducing the friction of the detent.

Support the cable the best you can.  Hope that works.

 

[highdesertranger]

get rid of that spring, it's not factory and doesn't need to be there. if your choke is hard after that replace the cable. highdesertranger

 

[wagoneer]

Sitting in the hot New Mexico sundown my little Honda gen suddenly just stopped. This old guy (30 years ago) was watching me fuss with it after about 1/2 hour walked over and said what's wrong sonny? I looked at this 'ol guy and told him it just stopped. He instructed me to take off the head and scrape the carbon buildup off I kinda laughed but followed his advice sure enough the carbon buildup was stopping the valves up, scraped it off and bang first pull he just grinned and gave me the high sign. Thank you Ol' guy.