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Oopslala

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I'm going all out with the new system, want to be able to run a fridge on only electric.  Which means pulling the current fridge out of its hole and putting a (smaller) one back in.  Better efficiency, more storage space above.

The dimensions of the current fridge: Length-24 inches, Width-24 inches, Height-4 feet.  Obviously I'm not looking for a big fridge again.

Probably a 2x2x2 fridge would be ideal but I doubt there's anything exactly like that.

I would prefer that the fridge opens with a door in the front, and not from the top, so I can use the above space for more storage.  But priority one is a fridge, I can be picky when i have multiple options.

Any links to fridges would be greatly appreciated!
 
While a chest type is more efficient, you could check out these.

Dometic Coolmatic CR-1080U/F 2.8 Cu. Ft.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276204|2276226|2276234&id=750380
 20.5" W x 21.8" H x 21.5" D
Freezer Gross Capacity: 4.8 quarts (4.5 liters)
Refrigerator Gross Capacity: 2.3 cu ft (65.1 liters)
Voltage: 12 / 24 Volts DC and 100 / 240 Volts AC
Average Power Consumption: 40 watts / 3.3 amps

Norcold NR740SS Refrigerator 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276204|2276226|2276234&id=2127144
22 x 18 x 23 inches
Total Volume / Capacity: 2.0 cu. ft.
Current Draw:
3.75 Amp @ 12 Volt DC
1.78 Amp @ 120 Volt AC
 
Interesting to see that that New Norcold has a Danfoss BD-35f compressor. I had heard that they has switched from Sawafuji on some models but this is the first time i've noticed it listed as the compressor.

My previous fridge, a Norcold de-0040 has a Sawafuji compressor and it was annoyingly loud and would vibrate the whole van.

My VF with the Danfoss bd35f is much much quieter, and more efficient to boot.

A ran a test side by side of an ARB 50 quart chest style with the insulative cover, using 2 watt meters that count current passing through them, and my Vitrifrigo c51is front loader with my extra insulation, and my VF used slightly less AH in 36 hours and maintained a steadier internal temperature of 33.5f where the ARB cycled less often, but for longer and varied from 23 to 39f.

I tried to keep the amount of door openings the same. Not a perfectly scientific test. In my opinion the 'chest style being more efficient' is not always true, and if it is, then the actual battery consumption will not be measurable to 99.5% of the people who use them.

When a top lid is opened, or a front door opened, a large percentage of the air inside is displaced in either case, so the 'cold air spilling out' claim of many simply holds no weight. The energy required to cool the air itself is a tiny fraction of that required to cool a jug of milk.

I feel it is the fact that a chest style fridge has no door seals on the bottom which makes them inherently more efficient, and the weight of the lid itself helps to ensure a good seal, where a front loader requires a relatively thin seal at the lowest coldest portion of the fridge and it required a fine tuning of the locking mechanism so that the door seal is compressed properly all the way around.

My old Norcold's door eventually warped, partially due to me overfilling it, and would not properly seal on the bottom, and I had to devise another method to hold the bottom of the door closed.

I was not so annoyed when the Norcold broke as I has spent so much effort over the course of 5 years on the thing to quieten it down and reduce its vibrations.

The Vitrifrigo just works quietly and efficiently and I Never worry about it or my battery.

The Danfoss bd35f compressor can be run at any rpm from 2000 to 3500
At 2000 rpm it will consume 2.2 amps when the compressor is running, at 3500 rpm it will consume~6.5 amps.

Faster compressor speeds help to cool down a fridge faster, and are required on larger fridges.

I removed the resistor in my tstat circuit to lower rpm from 2500 to 2000 and amp draw from 2.7 amps to 2.2amps.

Note that when the Danfoss compressor first starts it draws more amperage than it will toward the end of its cycle. Mine now starts at about 2.55 amps and tapers to 2.15amps about 5 minutes later.

It tends to run about 16 to 22 minutes per hour at 75f Ambient
 
In my previous rigs, and soon to be in my present one, I used heavy duty compound drawer slides to allow me to pull my chest cooler out of the cubby, which allowed me to use the space above for storage. A ltch on the bottom automatically engaged when I'd slide it back in. ..Willy.
 
I think I've decided on the truckfridge 65. Looks like it'll fit my needs best. I'll have 7 inches to play with for width. I'll just back each side with 3 1/2 inches of insulation. Same goes for the back. 5 inches of insulation and probably the same amount on the top section that doesn't the fan and everything on it. From there I'll leave it probably 8-12 inches and build an additional storage shelf for whatever is left from the original fridge/freezer. I also like the fact it has the spots you can screw it down. Add 1/2 or and inch of insulation on the bottom as well, should save a lot of the coolness from leaking out as well.
 
SternWake said:
http://www.truckfridge.com/tf65.html

They have 2 sizes the 49 and the 65

A step up from truckfridge is the Italian made Vitrfrigo

I have the vitrifrigo c51is:
http://www.vfamerica.com/eng/seaclassic-c51i.html

http://www.westyventures.com/parts.html#cart_restore

Any extra space, fill it up with foam board insulation.

These 12v compressor fridges require ventilation to the cooling unit on the back of them.  It is key to their proper function and key to maximum efficiency.

I just soo appreciate this Forum.....The mistakes I am not going to make because of it....:)
 

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