1991 Hide Away by Sun Lite, Elkhart, IN<br><br>After a very interesting engineering feat of loading the TC on to my trailer I got her home last night.<br>This morning I was up and started the "project". After a basic 'clean out' of the inside, I began tearing away at the obvious damage areas. the more I removed the more there was.<br>To sum it up...The Front section frame is rotted, the entire right side has been damaged.<br>At the front right side where sealer was sloshed onto the roof, the PO had started a poor attempt to repair that section, I removed what he had done as he was just covering up damage.<br>I removed the raised cabinets on the right side (or what was left of them) and started tearing back at the ceiling. that area is wet and the damaged to the right half of the ceiling goes all the way to about 3' from the back.<br>The ceiling is made up of 1" Styrofoam panel under the aluminum roof and a thin veneer for the finish.<br>I have to admit I was hoping to getaway with a quick fix, get a few uses out of it and then decide what to do. No chance of that. <br>?'s There are may pin holes obvious in the roof metal, should I think of reusing it. and how would I construct the new roof, I have not found any framing so far on this roof, yet.<br>They used 1"x4"'s on the side I plan on using that but pressure treated,,,ok?<br>Is it going be possible work on it, if all I have at my home would be a tarp to throw over it.<br>Would love to get some procedural advise as I am feeling a little overwhelm right now....OH I dont regret the purchase..I actually am becoming attached to the thing. It only has the basics which is all I need, and the stove works and A/C came on, didnt run long enough to cool. now I have figure out how to post pictures...as soon as I do I will post keep tuned.
found TC now what part 2 with pictures....now I need help
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Seraphim,<br><br>I am thinking that its pretty large, where they already patched I can see light, and the area where the ceiling looked fine till I started tearing it back there are many holes looking up. From the out side that area didnt look bad at all. So I would suspect that whole roof could be like that are getting there, I am running a dehumidifier in it right now trying to dry it out...and yes you are right it would of been a mold trap.
What I did, with one I picked up for free a few years ago, was to completely remove the front overhang section and angle the roof backward from where the overhang used to start; basically turned it into a larger camperette. Did it using hand tools in an orchard, between fruitpicking, and stayed a year in it. ..Willy.
Wild_E
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pressure treated ik if it is covered<br><br>in addition to the dehumidifier, put in as big a fan as you can find
Seraphim
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Different thoughts / options since I can't see the damage:
If they are truly just pin sized holes, a layer of sealer should do the trick.
Assuming you haven't access to a welder, rivet sheets of aluminum or sheet metal over the affected areas, if the holes are larger. Use an automotive seam sealer (that's it's name) between the patch and roof for adhesion, then a layer of rubber sealer over top. Looking at the photo, you might want to angle a piece of sheet metal and reinforce the corners where the roof and wall come together, and where the walls meet. Cover the strips with rubber sealer. Might be overkill, but it will prevent leaks and add some support,
Another option might be fiberglassing. A lot of prep work to do it right, and if not properly prepped the fiberglass will pull away from the metal, especially with the flexing of the camper going down the road.
Were it me, I'd probably do the interior framing first. Might be easier to build a whole new frame for that rotted front wall and set it in place. I know Willy suggested peeling back the outside, but you need something connected to help the camper maintain its shape if you pull off that rotted frame.
Just some random thoughts on possibilities...
If they are truly just pin sized holes, a layer of sealer should do the trick.
Assuming you haven't access to a welder, rivet sheets of aluminum or sheet metal over the affected areas, if the holes are larger. Use an automotive seam sealer (that's it's name) between the patch and roof for adhesion, then a layer of rubber sealer over top. Looking at the photo, you might want to angle a piece of sheet metal and reinforce the corners where the roof and wall come together, and where the walls meet. Cover the strips with rubber sealer. Might be overkill, but it will prevent leaks and add some support,
Another option might be fiberglassing. A lot of prep work to do it right, and if not properly prepped the fiberglass will pull away from the metal, especially with the flexing of the camper going down the road.
Were it me, I'd probably do the interior framing first. Might be easier to build a whole new frame for that rotted front wall and set it in place. I know Willy suggested peeling back the outside, but you need something connected to help the camper maintain its shape if you pull off that rotted frame.
Just some random thoughts on possibilities...
<EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Is it built with wooden stringers running the length of the roof with notches cut into them to support cross beams? <BR>This seams to be the way most are built here including mine (though mine has plywood on the outside of the framing aswell).<BR>The below pictures mght give you guide to its construction.<BR>Hey willy I did the opposite to you with an old motorhome single bed C class and extended it.</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888"><BR>I remember a truck camper step by step build website but can not think of its URL.<BR>Geoff</SPAN></STRONG></EM>
Seraphim,<br><br>That is one of my concerns, ...how do I peel off the skin, build new framing and get everything to line up right so the skin will fit (windows) when it goes back on,,,,.<br>I am wondering if I remove all the screws along the roof line and around the windows, leaving them in place, held by the caulking, and start removing the old wood from the inside one piece or section at a time, replacing it with new wood..<br><br>The front section shouldnt be to hard to do as the sides of the over hang which is plywood seems to be still in tact.<br><br>As for the roof I am no sure how to deal with that. I appears to me that thy glued the styrofoam to the metal and then the finish panel to it. I havent come across any cross braces ...yet. also the roof is in three sections, and I am not sure how they are joined to each other.<br><br>keep those ideas guys .....This is all new to me.....I can perform the work,,,just not sure how to go about it, and would hate to make the situation worse.<br>I dont regret buy this thing..yet....And I am sure this effort to resurrect it will only serve to endear me to it.
What I did was to run supports under the sidewalls, front to back, and sawhorses under the floor. This kept it from going outta 'square'. If you want to rebuild the front, instead of just removing the works, put a support under it too and it will also act as a guide. Those added metal brackets kinda say that the support stringers are rotted to hell and need to be replaced. Peeling the skin isn't really all that difficult, both sides & roof, and then you know precisely what you're dealing with. When putting it back together, friction-fit rigid foam insulation (same thickness as walls) and you'll end up with a much sturdier structure. I wouldn't bother with the pressure treated wood; an inner vapour barrier would work better. My camper is over 30 yrs old, some others being considerably older, and the wood is still good, being plain ol' pine (or maybe fir). ..Willy.
Willy.... you make it sound so simple 
......you want to a working vacation in sunny Florida?<br>I have studied this thing and I think I am going to tackle the side wall rebuild from the inside.<br>If i remove all screws from the molding and windows, run a 2x2 base board and 2x2 header, frame around the windows stud out the walls, friction fit styroform.in the gaps With that in place I may remove the skin from the front. that's ply has wood sides that i can replicate.<br><br>Now for the roof ...I havens figured that out yet....the left side of the roof and ceiling appears to be solid, I would love to run cross boards to attache the ceiling but that would require removing the cabinets over the kitchen to be able to reach the far side wall....dont want to do that...so right now I dont know how I am going to support the ceiling...any ideas...<br><br>Serapimh, I am inclined to repair the roof.. keep those ideas coming :-0
......you want to a working vacation in sunny Florida?<br>I have studied this thing and I think I am going to tackle the side wall rebuild from the inside.<br>If i remove all screws from the molding and windows, run a 2x2 base board and 2x2 header, frame around the windows stud out the walls, friction fit styroform.in the gaps With that in place I may remove the skin from the front. that's ply has wood sides that i can replicate.<br><br>Now for the roof ...I havens figured that out yet....the left side of the roof and ceiling appears to be solid, I would love to run cross boards to attache the ceiling but that would require removing the cabinets over the kitchen to be able to reach the far side wall....dont want to do that...so right now I dont know how I am going to support the ceiling...any ideas...<br><br>Serapimh, I am inclined to repair the roof.. keep those ideas coming :-0Oh!...... another major factor in the decision to try and execute repairs from the inside is the lack of a covered area to work. I have somewhere I could take it thats around 175 miles away, but I would only get to work on it a few hours every couple of weeks....while here at home I can work into the night if I want to. I have covered the top with a tarp. Also since I am not trying to preserve the interior walls i dont have that to worry about.<br><br>Now I need some ideas of how the replace the ceiling...
Seraphim
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I was thinking about cross diagonal bracing on the inside to hold the structure square. Or perhaps external bracing runnin from the top to the ground. Using stakes in the ground to secure the bracing. Techniques for building or repairing fixed structures, but should work with a camper, as well.
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