Costco Battery Help $83 for 70 AH

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GrayWhale

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Can someone tell me if this is a decent battery?  Interstate 124R-700.  What in the world is "group size H6 (48)"?

It looks like a regular car battery and smaller than the Marine batteries. But it doesn't list a CCA nor MCA rating. Instead, it says 70 Amp Hours.

All of their batteries are now Interstate and the Marine ones are only warrantied for 12 months. I'm not sure why this one is 42 months. If it's a true, 12v, deep charging, solar battery and 70 AH, then that's pretty good right? Although it doesn't say at all if that's rated at 1 A/H to get 70 AH.  Thanks for any help.
 

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Most ah ratings are calculated using 20 hours. It should list the hours used when they calculated the ah. However, you don't really get(from my experience) the full ah that are listed on the battery. It is usually about 20% less. That isn't written in stone and someone might correct that, it's just my limited experience and from a little of what I have read about ah ratings on batteries. If it's 20% less, that is then about 56ah's. Most suggest that you don't go below 50% of your batteries so as to keep them in better condition longer. That brings you to about 28ah's use before recharging to full. It depends on what you are planning on using it for, although the 42 month warranty is very nice!
 
It used to be, if a battery does not list CCA ratings it is a Deep cycle battery.

BUT, that is no longer true.

One must know that Interstate is a battery marketer, they are not a manufacturer. Currently Most of their engine starting batteries are made by Johnson Controls. Who make what for whom is constantly changing. In my opinion Interstate batteries do not deserve their reputation, but there is marketing for you.

A 100 amp hour battery when measured at the 20 hour rate, can provide 5 amps for 20 hours before battery voltage drops to 10.5 volts, which is considered 100% discharged.

But, one can indeed discharge a battery below 10.5 volts, and this is like throwing a brick to a drowning person.

Marine batteries have both Automotive posts, and threaded studs to attach ring terminals.

if a battery only has Automotive posts, 99% chance it is only a starting battery and is not fit for deep cycle or dual purpose duties.

Pass on this battery. Johnson controls makes most of Wally worlds batteries. While JC could certainly make batteries for interstate to a higher quality level than interstate, many argue that doing so would cost them more in the long run and that they are exactly the same internally.

Only someone inside the particular battery manufacturer center, wherever it might be located, knows for sure.

The most poorly manufactured battery kept fully charged its whole life, will outlast the best battery chronically undercharged, so peoples experiences with how long a battery lasts has very little revelance to the battery coming off the line and relabeled today.

If you are really eager to spend as little as possible on a battery, get a marine battery from Wally world and do your best to return it to full charge whenever possible. And when it fails, perhaps still under warranty, then wally worlds are everywhere and most employees in the auto department don't worry too much about wally worlds bottom line and just replace it.

But some do.

Battery group sizes like 48, 27, 41 76 ect are not directly proportional to their capacity either.

The more common sizes of marine batteries, which are more desirable just becuase they move faster and are likely fresher, are group 24, 27 and 31.

Wally world has made up a new group size(29) which is either a group 27 or group 31 depending on the last time the locusts ran. These range from 100 to 120 AH capacity, but wally world also likes to use different rates than the standard 20 hour rate to make their batteries appear to magically have more capacity than their competitor's at Autoparts stores.

If you see two batteries the same size in wally world, and want to know which one is the better battery for van dwelling, go get a bathroom scale and see which one is heavier. Heavier is better.

Also if the rack of batteries has several of the same size, the battery in the back is likely the newest one, and that is the one you want, not the one which has been sitting on the shelf for 3 months.

Batteries self discharge just sitting, and when they fall below 80% charged, which can happen in 6 weeks, then they start losing capacity.

Beware of battery sales, these batteries are old and capacity compromised and will also fail earlier Even if they warranty them for the same amount of time from the date of purchase, the battery will not have its new capacity and it will be more resistant to returning to its maximum remaining capacity, which was compromised before you bought it.
 
SternWake said:
It used to be, if a battery does not list CCA ratings it is a Deep cycle battery.

BUT, that is no longer true.

One must know that Interstate is a battery marketer, they are not a manufacturer. Currently Most of their engine starting batteries are made by Johnson Controls. Who make what for whom is constantly changing. In my opinion Interstate batteries do not deserve their reputation, but there is marketing for you.

A 100 amp hour battery when measured at the 20 hour rate, can provide 5 amps for 20 hours before battery voltage drops to 10.5 volts, which is considered 100% discharged.

But, one can indeed discharge a battery below 10.5 volts, and this is like throwing a brick to a drowning person.

Marine batteries have both Automotive posts, and threaded studs to attach ring terminals.

if a battery only has Automotive posts, 99% chance it is only a starting battery and is not fit for deep cycle or dual purpose duties.

Pass on this battery. Johnson controls makes most of Wally worlds batteries. While JC could certainly make batteries for interstate to a higher quality level than interstate, many argue that doing so would cost them more in the long run and that they are exactly the same internally.

Only someone inside the particular battery manufacturer center, wherever it might be located, knows for sure.

The most poorly manufactured battery kept fully charged its whole life, will outlast the best battery chronically undercharged, so peoples experiences with how long a battery lasts has very little revelance to the battery coming off the line and relabeled today.

If you are really eager to spend as little as possible on a battery, get a marine battery from Wally world and do your best to return it to full charge whenever possible. And when it fails, perhaps still under warranty, then wally worlds are everywhere and most employees in the auto department don't worry too much about wally worlds bottom line and just replace it.

But some do.

Battery group sizes like 48, 27, 41 76 ect are not directly proportional to their capacity either.

The more common sizes of marine batteries, which are more desirable just becuase they move faster and are likely fresher, are group 24, 27 and 31.

Wally world has made up a new group size(29) which is either a group 27 or group 31 depending on the last time the locusts ran. These range from 100 to 120 AH capacity, but wally world also likes to use different rates than the standard 20 hour rate to make their batteries appear to magically have more capacity than their competitor's at Autoparts stores.

If you see two batteries the same size in wally world, and want to know which one is the better battery for van dwelling, go get a bathroom scale and see which one is heavier. Heavier is better.

Also if the rack of batteries has several of the same size, the battery in the back is likely the newest one, and that is the one you want, not the one which has been sitting on the shelf for 3 months.

Batteries self discharge just sitting, and when they fall below 80% charged, which can happen in 6 weeks, then they start losing capacity.

Beware of battery sales, these batteries are old and capacity compromised and will also fail earlier Even if they warranty them for the same amount of time from the date of purchase, the battery will not have its new capacity and it will be more resistant to returning to its maximum remaining capacity, which was compromised before you bought it.
I wish I could give you 2 thumbs up. This helps with my confusion. I'll be going with 4 6v 220ah Lifeline batteries.
 
Milk Hauler said:
... I'll be going with 4 6v 220ah Lifeline batteries...

Can you say what made you go with Lifeline vs another cheaper option? Like Trojan or even Deka? Thnx!
 
440AH of lifeline batteries want 88 amps initial charge current when heavily depleted. They will be tickled to death if they are charged low and slow day after day without seeing these higher recharge rates at least every 15 deep cycles.

The deeper the cycle, the more important it is to apply this amperage, and the more often the better

Will you be able to supply 88 amps?

Here is one charger which can, and from a 15 amp household outlet:

http://www.amazon.com/POWERMAX-PM3-100-CONVERTER-CHARGER-AUTOMATIC/dp/B008B13NIQ

This charger is not a perfect match for these batteries, but is closer than most

Sometimes these high $ AGMs got to be considered like a AMG Mercedes. Just because it costs an arm and a leg, does not mean one should never need to change the oil.

Proper recharging is the key to get your moneys worth from batteries, and AGMs are finicky in the minimum charge rate and how close they are returned to a true full charge.

http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/manual.pdf
 
Not to steal Grays thread, but I was set on Wally specials till I did the research on lifeline. The stout mil-spec build quality is shat sold me. Super thick plates spaced farther apart.

They are made in in the US, Covina, Ca and is family run. In particular situation I chose Lifeline due to the hi amp charging rates in the 500 amp neighborhood. I will be relying on a custom built 300 amp alternator to charge my bank.
The Trojans and Dekkas are more suited for slower 20-30 amp charge rates.

Now I'm just a crusty truck driver, but my homework says the solar guys would be better off with Trojan. Most if the police, ambulances, fire trucks fleet managers buy the Lifelines, combined with high amp alternators. I'm not saying lifelines are better, just better for my application.

Again, not to steal the thread. Good luck Gray in your many choices. Its mind boggling.
 
Impressive alternator, it will meet the lifelines requirements, but fully charging them to 90 to 100%, a 300 amp alternator is no more effective than a 40 amp alternator, and it still takes hours.

Regularly getting that last 10% is key to getting the most from them:
Quench them with the alternator, finish them off with Solar or a grid powered charger, or prepare for disappointment, as they do not like being cycled at partial states of charge.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=124973
 
I think the Interstate is a heck of a deal. Might only last a couple of yrs under heavy use, but you could swap it out for a free one.

Dive deep into those customers who have bought those batteries, and you will see a trend of deminishing quality and customer service.
 
SternWake said:
440AH of lifeline batteries want 88 amps initial charge current when heavily depleted. They will be tickled to death if they are charged low and slow day after day without seeing these higher recharge rates at least every 15 deep cycles.

The deeper the cycle, the more important it is to apply this amperage, and the more often the better

Will you be able to supply 88 amps?

Here is one charger which can, and from a 15 amp household outlet:

http://www.amazon.com/POWERMAX-PM3-100-CONVERTER-CHARGER-AUTOMATIC/dp/B008B13NIQ

This charger is not a perfect match for these batteries, but is closer than most

Sometimes these high $ AGMs got to be considered like a AMG Mercedes. Just because it costs an arm and a leg, does not mean one should never need to change the oil.

Proper recharging is the key to get your moneys worth from batteries, and AGMs are finicky in the minimum charge rate and how close they are returned to a true full charge.

http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/manual.pdf
Yes I'm my application 300 amps. The po needs to that into thought. Thc Stern for earlier post.
 
SternWake said:
Impressive alternator, it will meet the lifelines requirements, but fully charging them to 90 to 100%, a 300 amp alternator is no more effective than a 40 amp alternator, and it still takes hours.

Regularly getting that last 10% is key to getting the most from them:
Quench them with the alternator, finish them off with Solar or a grid powered charger, or prepare for disappointment, as they do not like being cycled at partial states of charge.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=124973
Exactly! I have a few 100w mono panels on my wish Amazon list along with the appropriate controller. $$ not flowing so fast latelty. Ultimately I want to be 100% solar and wind. This board has helped greatly. [emoji12]
 
I thought you could not run many inverters much below 12 volts. They will just not work. So you never want to get even close to 10 volts on your battery. Maybe 11.5 is the lowest voltage ever; if you use an inverter for any appliances.
 
offroad said:
I thought you could not run many inverters much below 12 volts. They will just not work. So you never want to get even close to 10 volts on your battery. Maybe 11.5 is the lowest voltage ever; if you use an inverter for any appliances.

The Morningstar 300 watt pure-sine inverter says it will run on 10.0 to 15.5 volts and has a user selectable Low Voltage Disconnect of either 11.5 or 10.5 volts.

The Samlex PST series of pure-sine inverters says it has a low voltage alarm set to 10.7 volts and will shut down automatically at 10 volts.

Though I'm thinking running your battery bank that low regularly CAN'T be good for battery life . . .

Regards
John 
 
Read somewhere that batteries should not drop below 12.1 else the long life longevity of the battery is being reduced. Maybe that's a wrong number, but would like to hear of better experts.
 
Milk Hauler said:
I think the Interstate is a heck of a deal. Might only last a couple of yrs under heavy use, but you could swap it out for a free one.

Dive deep into those customers who have bought those batteries,  and you will see a trend of deminishing quality and customer service.

A dead battery just one time will change your mind.  I found a deal on Fullriver and never looked back.

If you are using it in a solar application, many times you can get the core charge waved.  Go check out a place that only sells batteries.   It is well worth the time to do all the research.
 
SternWake said:
It used to be, if a battery does not list CCA ratings it is a Deep cycle battery.
 
if a battery only has Automotive posts, 99% chance it is only a starting battery and is not fit for deep cycle or dual purpose duties.

Pass on this battery.


Thanks for you entire post. Explained everything in great detail.

The main reason that this battery caught my eye is that it's listed/tagged the "old way" that Costco used to do it for their Marine/Deep Cycle Batteries and with a warranty over 12 months. Now, it's only 12 mo for Marine and it doesn't say DC nor list the AH any longer. Seems that people are wrecking them, thinking that DC means being able to drop them to 0% and not knowing that they're just modified Car batteries. But they probably were able to get their user-destroyed batteries back in time for warranty replacement due to having 24 months. Now it's just 12 mos.

I should have taken a picture of the posts, but I'm pretty sure it only had 2 post, just like a regular car battery. It even says "automotive". All of these above factors, made me scratch my head trying to figure if this was some kind of special battery.  Or it might just be a mistake of some sort, with Costco printing out the tags.

What you said about how Johnson Control makes batteries for most places, made the most sense for me. And how for them to make some super special battery instead just one plain jane line, is not cost effective. This totally makes sense, especially when this battery is priced identical with the other car batteries next to it, including it being the same in size. Thanks again and I'm definitely taking your advice of passing on it.
 
The interstate battery in the OP is just a starting battery.  if it is to be used as a starting battery and never cycled it will likely give adequate service and can be offered with a 4 year warranty with not much risk to the seller.


Marine batteries will never be offered with such a warranty because people will deplete them fully, leave them discharged, and wonder why they will not seem to take a recharge the next time they use their boat 3 months later.

Similarly, many van dwelling newbies seem to think that they can drag a battery so low it can barely keep a single incandescent bulb glowing, then drive around the block and the battery is magically restored to full charge.

Battery voltage under load is much different than battery voltage on a rested battery.

One can put a 15-20 amp load on a healthy battery and in 20 minutes they will see ~12.1 volts.  Does this mean that one must stop the load at this point?  No

When the load is removed the voltage will rebound.

Now if the load is removed and the battery 2 hours later only rebounds to 12.1v, then this is indicative of a battery around 50% charged and it is wise to stop discharging it at this point and utilize a charging source ASAP.

There is no definitive voltage one must stop at, unless the loads are tiny, then 12.1 to 12.2 is a good area.  Voltage will always sag to some degree under a load and rebound when the load is removed.  the size of the load and the size and health of the battery are extreme variables that make any definitive voltage to find oneself alarmed at, to be...unwise.

Remove the loads, wait an hour, see how much voltage rebounds.  if it remains under 12.1, then no longer apply that load until the battery is recharged.  Dont freak out just by seeing 12.1 when there is a significant load on the battery.

Every time the engine is cranked battery voltage drops into the 10v range.

Also the 50% rested voltage is not the same for every single battery out there.  Saying definitively that a rested 12.2v is exactly 50% charged, is unwise.  12.2v is a general number roughly indicating somewhere around 50%, and only on a rested battery.

And if one has recently partially recharged and finds only 12.2 volts, this is not indicative of 50% charged at all.  Surface charge even on a depleted battery lasts for a while.

Surface charge, like after driving, has fooled many a person into tthinking their battery was fully charged when it is far from.

Surface charge is the great fooler.

Voltage is a very poor method of determining actual state of charge, unless the battery has not seen any charging or discharging currents for a period of time, and the longer the time, the more accurate voltage is as to state of charge.

Voltage is not like a fuel tank indicator.  It is like throwing a rock at a rubber band and trying to see how far the rubber band stretched.
 
Milk Hauler said:
Not to steal Grays thread, 

Don't worry man, keep going. I got my questions answered by all of "youse guys" responses, so I'm happy.  And now, I'm continuing to read for additional info on whatever you want to talk about.
 
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