Converter brand(s)

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regis101

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Greetings. I'm seeing mostly these brand names for converters.

One is IOTA.
Second is Progressive Dynamics.
Three is Parallax.
Four is WFCO.
Five is Power Maxx.

Any experiences?
 
IIRC, I've seen a lot of complaints about WFCO in the mainstream RV forums.  It appears to be the standard factory brand that comes in most new RVs.  Everybody ends up replacing it with something better when it fails.
 
I replaced the converter in the Roadtrek with a Progressive Dynamics one.  It works well and all the 12v outputs are filtered (no static/whine).
 
I have a Parallax 7300 that will cook your battery on a hot day.
 
PD or Iota.

PD is offering converters with a 14.8v absorption voltage instead of the standard 14.4v when time to recharge is an issue, or one has Trojan batteries.

Pd has user selectable voltage choices via 'the wizard'/ pendant.

Powermax offers a MANUAL, Single stage adjustable voltage version which is the only one I would recommend from them.

The Powermaxes are powerfactor corrected at 60 amps or more, using less AC to make DC compared to non power factor corrected.
 
There are one or two bad reviews for the WFCO but I dunno if their stand alone converters are any different than their all-in-one.
Haven't done much research on Powermaxx yet.

Printed out specs for the PD and IOTA.

My wiring is comfy and upgraded to the 30 amp level with #10. I also have Marine grade #8 for an additional rewiring upgrade.

The IOTA brand comes in 15, 30, 45 and 55 amp that utilizes a standard 15 amp plug.
The PD starts at 45 amp.

I printed out the spec sheets for the two and compared them at the 45 amp level since this is where PD starts.
Very similar specs. I would never notice the subtle differences.

The present coach load would handle a 30 amp converter quite nicely all day long and still charge the GR 24 battery with ease.

One thing I want to study is that if I step up to two GC batteries for extended off grid capabilities, I may want to forego the 30 amp scenario and step up to the 45 amp converter.
 
A 30 amp RV is 30 amps at 115vAC

It does not mean it can only power a 30 AMP output converter at 13.8vDC

Put the new converter close to batteries over thick wiring for best recharging performance and battery life.

Do not bother with a replacement WFCO. They are unreliable junk
 
I've been using the PD with the Wizard pendant for the last year on my new install. Works well on a pair of 6V 225AH GC Energizers from Sam's club. The PD barely gets warm to the touch when charging and I haven't had the fan come on yet. Maybe after the batteries get to be a few years old or if I draw them down more than 25% it will work a bit harder......
So far I still have shore power available so I have the PD run about every forth day to top off three days of solar.
 
I had a PD9245 for a project for a friend, in summertime, and the fan almost always ran, at varying speeds/ noise levels,  depending on the load.( the amps the battery needed to achieve 14.4v)

Generally batteries need to be under 75% charged to accept high amperage for a brief period and amps generally begin tapering at 80%, but this depends on the maximum current of the charging source.  It is when they are 50% charged that they will max out a charging source for a good half hour or more which heats up the charging source greatly.

The PD's have good heatsinking and ventilation, and a reputation for keeping batteries pretty healthy.

You can leave it plugged in.  From storage mode every 18 hours it will bump voltage to 14.4 to stir up the electrolyte and destratify the acid.

If I were forced into a 3 or 4 stage automatic converter, it would be the PD9245, pd9260 or pd9270, and it would be the 14.8v version unless I had Lifeline AGM batteries, then the 14.4v version would be preferable.

BUt I do the adjustable voltage powersupply thing, and find spinning a dial is faster than holding a button down and being limited to 3 outputs.  I personally  do not need or want 'automatic'.

I plugged into the grid last night as i went a few days only getting to 99%, and I wanted to heat my showerbag to 100F via my 12v heating pad, which eats up a good 30AH of battery capacity. I kept it at 14.7v until eyes started crossing then I lowered it to 13.7v for the rest of the night. Now I got a very full battery, 5 gallons of 100F water, and a new large groundswell is massaging the coastline and building, and the time to go extract some energy from the ocean.
 
The wiring, as is, has the coach battery being charged only from the alternator via a solenoid.  The converter is only hot when hooked up to shore power.  There is a "source" toggle switch, properly rated,  to allow choosing one or the other.  

I almost have half a mind to buy two converters.  First one, to replace the 40+ year old existing glorified door bell transformer disguised as a converter.  Second one, to charge the battery.

My thought is to keep the battery as a battery and to rely on it only when battery is needed.

Otherwise, the manual for the PD 9200 series shows a wiring diagram that T's the Pos + output to feed the battery and the fuse panel.  It would be easy for me to do this wiring change.

I also like the idea of one Pos cable from the output to the battery and then onto the fuse panel.  Simpler and no splicing.  I could use a top post battery terminal or a mechanical lug to slide the cable through.

Sorry.  Drifting off my own topic.

edit to add PD 9200 series manual
https://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/109821F english.pdf
 
SternWake said:
PD or Iota.

PD is offering converters with a 14.8v absorption voltage instead of the standard 14.4v when time to recharge is an issue, or one has Trojan batteries.

Pd has user selectable voltage choices via 'the wizard'/ pendant.

X2
 

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