code reader to the rescue

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wagoneer

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dreaded check engine light wow only the second time I have seen this in 3 years. Matco code reader is telling me it's the Cam Positioning Sensor. OK flatten cardboard box get down under front end 14mm with extension undo bolt buy the 26 dollar part and reverse the procedure. Just saying don't leave home without your code reader.
 
wagoneer said:
dreaded check engine light wow only the second time I have seen this in 3 years. Matco code reader is telling me it's the Cam Positioning Sensor. OK flatten cardboard box get down under front end 14mm with extension undo bolt buy the 26 dollar part and reverse the procedure. Just saying don't leave home without your code reader.
Perhaps I'm saying myself, but this brought back memories of digging through cereal boxes, looking for decoder rings.

Otherwise, very true. A code reader should be considered as important to keep with you as a spare and a jack.

Curiosity question: Can you get code readers that will work across various makes and models of vehicles?
 
some auto part like autozone will check the codes for free
 
GrantRobertson said:
Curiosity question: Can you get code readers that will work across various makes and models of vehicles?

Yes.  The OBD-2 specification (OBD = On Board Diagnostics) was standardized for all vehicles sold in the US in 1996.  Pre-96 ones are not so standard.  Amazon sells a couple of good books on the subject, one by Haynes and one by Motorbooks Workshop.

Regards
John
 
96 was the year for passenger vehicles, truck chassies used for class A's switched later. For Ford, it was at the same time as the switch from V8 to V10 when they skipped a model year. (1998 IIRC.)
 
wagoneer said:
dreaded check engine light wow only the second time I have seen this in 3 years. Matco code reader is telling me it's the Cam Positioning Sensor. OK flatten cardboard box get down under front end 14mm with extension undo bolt buy the 26 dollar part and reverse the procedure. Just saying don't leave home without your code reader.

My solution for this is to drive something old enough it doesn't have all of the added BS.  I don't even have a check engine light!
 
Off Grid 24/7 said:
My solution for this is to drive something old enough it doesn't have all of the added BS.  I don't even have a check engine light!

I had a '93 Volvo 240 wagon. It had a computer but before code checkers were in use. To figure out what was going on, you had to put a jumper in a certain location, then push a button a certain number of times and then watch for the blinking light pattern. It was as close go using an old fashioned decoder ring as you could get on a car. It was kinda fun.
 
My '89 Dodge is OBD1.


I can access the stored codes via the 'key dance'.  

Turn the ignition on and off twice and then leave it on.  the CEL will go out and then start flashing.  1 flash, a pause and 5 more flashes is a Code 15, which is the vehicle speed sensor.

There is likely more information accessible by a code reader though.

Do note that if it comes up as a sensor reading out of Whack, it does not necessarily mean the sensor itself is bad, only that the sensor readings as viewed by the Engine computer are not within acceptable preprogrammed parameters.

Like a code 13, Map sensor, manifold absolute pressure.  This code might be a bad sensor, but it is more likely to occur because of severe misfiring because of a failure of spark or fuel delivery causing the engine to run  extremely rough.  The sensor was doing its job, and further detective work is required. Replacing this sensor does nothing but drain the wallet, 99% of the time.

But many people think all modern cars tell you exactly what is wrong with them via the stored computer codes.  If only it worked that way, but most of the time a larger grasp of how the vehicle sensors work together and experience with the particular vehicle or make of vehicle is required to find the actual cause of the issue. 

Sometimes, Without this grasp of the wider system, people just say to rip it all off and install a carb instead.
  Good luck with that in most states.
 
sterns right. you still must do diagnostic work you just can't start throwing parts at it. highdesertranger
 
O"Reilly's does the code check for free, too. Why not? Then they sell you the parts (so one can then throw them at their van ... LOL)

I had a check engine light come on... the code reader then said there was NOTHING wrong. I accepted that conclusion but maybe should not. I guess I'll have it checked by a mechanic before leaving for RTR.
 
I have seen this posted a couple of times recently. Autozone, O'Reilly's, or what ever auto parts store can not read your codes in Kalifornia, soon coming to a state near you . WriterMs the check engine light does not come on to tell you nothing is wrong. might want a second opinion. see you at RTR. highdesertranger
 
Lots of times the CEl indicates issues only with emissions equipment.

I enjoy being able to check codes. They do not solve the crime but they give a good clue.

My only experience with a Carb is on a Yamaha Mx-80 2 stroke motorcycle, but I've no problems changing a fuel injector on my TBI dodge.

Putting too much faith in dash gauges, or lights, on modern vehicles is Not wise as the gauges are dumbed down less an errant reading send an indignant modern consumer back to the dealer complaining of strange, but completely normal behavior, on their oil pressure or temp gauges.

I remember being a Kid and my mom complaining to a car dealer that her cruise control was not sensitive enough and asking for a specific adjustment, on a 1984 Mazda

How about the analog voltmeters with 10v on one side and 18 on the other, a half an inch away. Think you can discern the difference between 12.6 and 13.7v on those?

No, best not to place too much stock in gauges, lights or the intelligence or honesty of your fellow human.

I think a Crank position sensor code is the only one where simply replacing the sensor is likely the only reason the CPS code can be triggered, except maybe a broken timing chain. Could be the wiring to and from the sensor though too, or a bad computer ground, so nevermind.

I really don;t trust anybody working at an Autoparts store either. Some know their stuff, but generally they are older, and have to be paid more, so they dump them for the pimply faced kid who they can pay 6.75 an hour and was told to push the Lucas Oil Stabilizer (hint, it is junk).

After all, everything is all about maximum profit these days.
 
Had the same thing happen on a 97 Ford van that I had.$20 part and I'm back on the road.Afraid I don't understand the people who rant against engines with codes.If you were sick,would you tell your dr. not to use xrays,ekgs,blood tests or any of that other newfangeled stuff?
 
I bought one of these:
SGII_with-dims.jpg

Combination trip computer, gauge display (RPM,TEMPS, etc.) and code reader. Stays plugged in and velcroed to dash. I have it showing RPMs and VOLTS, but a push of a button cycles thru other values as well. And because its velcro and OBD2 plug I just unplug it and use it to check codes on other vehicles. I use the model 'Scangauge 2' for my van...they have models for diesels and hybrids too. Once I get on the road and do some long distance I'll program the trip computer functions too.

http://www.scangauge.com/

Amazon sells them....use Bob's link:

CLICK HERE TO SHOP AMAZON.COM
 

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Not being a big fan of computers in cars and falling out of love with older vehicles places me between a rock and a hard place. The first car I bought in 1962 was a 1953 plymouth that has 300k+ miles and was an ex-yellow cab 35 dollars a can of pink paint and a hacksaw, the "pink lady" was born.
I am dealing with today so that is what we do, adapt.
 
You can get a Tuner for a bit more than a good code reader and actually change the tune of your vehicle. I have an SCT and I get 2-3 MPG better and much better throttle response on my explorer. Worth the money.

When I tow with the tune, I get around 10, without 6.
 
Stern and HDR beat me to it. Do not just put on parts because the code reader said something is wrong. The trouble code isn't even the first step to real diagnostics. Everybody likes shortcuts though. Shortcuts end up costing you much more in the end.
 
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