Going to pick a couple nits here, sorry. Let the eye rolling begin.
What 110Ah battery does the OP have? There is no actual deep cycle flooded 12v battery, despite the stickers and marketing saying so. Most every flooded 12v battery is a hybrid/ dual purpose battery and will last less than half the total amount of cycles as a true deep cycle battery like the trojan t-1275 which is the only realistically attainable 12v flooded battery.
Please read this link:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery
No need to scrap a hybrid battery and pursue a real deep cycle battery after reading the link above, but know that a sticker with deep cycle boldly printed on it, does not mean it is. Beware of marketing, always, as it is, more often than not, extremely dishonest, and marketing a hybrid 12v battery as a deep cycle battery is dishonest in my opinion and does nothing but frustrate the rob the end user.
A starting battery too can be deep cycled, it just wont last very long in that application. The hybrid 12v battery is much much closer to a starting battery than a deep cycle battery in the internal design of the plates.
With AGM batteries there is the possibility that they are designed as a deep cycle battery, but many, like the Deka Intimidator series (often relabelled, sold as energizer or duracell at sams club and costco), which is marketed as having the ability to deep cycle, is rated, according to Mainesail( the battery Guru) , for only 350 deep cycles to 50% where as Lifeline AGM is rated to 1000 cycles at 50% discharges. Yes the Lifeline costs twice as much and is harder to find a retailer, but if treated right, will last 3x as many deep cycles. Bargain hunters beware. Half price but 1/3 the lifespan is no bargain.
Moving on, No charging source 'senses' the battery state of charge and then decides how much current to apply. No charging source can magically go into a battery and see its condition or state of charge. It can see battery voltage, and if no charging source has been on the battery or any loads on the battery for a few hours, this voltage can be related to state of charge.
But rarely is resting voltage actually relevant in full time van dwelling when the battery is almost always being charged or discharged. Voltage can be very misleading, and is NOT like a fuel level indicator, unless the battery has NOT seen charging or discharging sources for many many hours, and only if the battery user already has previously established what that particular battery's fully charged voltage is.
( Resting full charge voltage can range anywhere from 12.62v to 13.16v, depending on the specific battery.)
Automatic chargers sense voltage and it has a program to follow. Apply max amperage output until voltage reads 14.x volts, hold for X amount of time, then revert to a lower float voltage. This is the three stages, and simply 3 different voltage levels. I know many chargers now are marketed as having 8 stages which claim to do everything but orally copulate with the user, but again marketing/lying/dishonesty abounds.
Most every charging source sold as automatic will not actually have the battery at full charge when it first flashes the green full charge light. 'Automatic' in the case of battery chargers means only that it is designed not to overcharge, and that undercharging is a lawyerly safe guarantee. Automatic charger means automatic undercharger in a sexy marketable case with many soothing lights possibly with buttons. Humans love buttons and the appearance of choice.
When there are several charging sources applied at the same time, they can all work together when the battery is discharged below ~80% to get the battery upto that 14.x volt range, but then the charging source with the lower maximum voltage setpoint will drop out as the higher voltage charger carries on. No need to do anything, at this point only one charging source is adequate as the battery cannot accept the current from two chargers in most instances anyway. The charging soure which drops out will not be damaged by the other charging source continuing on.
Do not fear multiple charging sources on the battery at the same time.
For a hard working ( regularly deeply cycled) 110Ah capacity flooded battery I would want no less than a 20 amp plug in charger.
For a hard working 110AH AGM battery I would want no less than a 30 amp charger.
For a battery never or rarely discharged below 80% state of charge, it does not much matter either way.
For a van dweller who has the occasional access to grid power to bring their battery(s) to full, the automatic chargers will likely get confused in the presence of the regular DC loads, like a cycling compressor fridge. When 85% charged, they will see that it requires ~8 amps to hold the 110Ah battery 14.4v, but then the fridge cycles on and then it requires 11.4 amps to hold 14.4v, then the fridge cycles off and it again requires 8 amps to hold 14.4v.
This makes the regular smart charger think something is wrong with the battery and it will shut itself off. If a Human is unaware of the charger shutting itself off, and had paid 35$ to camp in a place where they had electrical hookups just so they could top off their abused battery, well they just wasted 35$.
An Rv converter is designed to both 3 stage charge batteries WHILE still powering the RV's DC loads. They do not come in a sexy casing, nor come with alligator clamps but they do work, and they can be bought in various amperage levels.
The Iota DLS-30 ( 30 amps) would be a pretty good choice for a single 110Ah flooded or AGM battery.
If one has more battery capacity, my opinion is the PD9245-14.8 ( 45 amps max) is a better converter as one can force the charger into one of 3 voltage settings, overriding the automatic charge algorithm. These can be had in 55 60 and 70 amp versions sold as PD92XX-14.8, where XX is the max amperage.
45 amps is a lot for a single 110AH flooded battery, Not ideal, but also not instant death.
Keep in mind that most alternators are capable of initially delivering over 100 amps to a well depleted battery, even as wired from the ford factory, or whatever. Most every vehicle that is jump started will have the alternator supplying a very high charge rate to the depleted battery, and will do so for a significant period of time, and this does not kill the battery instantly. The battery is also underhood( hot) and high charge rates also heat the battery surprisingly quickly, making it even hotter, and heat really is not good for batteries, but a jumpstart on a hot day and then driving through the summertime desert in a traffic jam, is still not an instant battery killer. Not good for it but not instant death. The Sky is not falling. Simply be aware it is not ideal. High charge rates and high battery temperatures should be avoided if possible.
Many people (not necessarily on this forum) fear a high charge rate unnecessarily, and love to recommend the slow trickle charge, and many will say put a trickle charger on overnight, completely unaware that a trickle charger that 2 amps for 12 hours is nowhere near enough to recharge a 110Ah battery depleted to 50%. in general if you see the recommendation to trickle charge a battery, humor the person speaking, but ignore their advice, unless one can plug in for a week. A slow recharge to full is indeed best for the healthy but discharged battery, if one has the time to do so. Almost never the case in Van or Rv dwelling. In case of an Unhealthy depleted battery, higher initial amperage charge rates will help to desulfate the battery better than a trickle charge applied for a week.
The Van dweller usually has only a few hours to plug in, and chargers capable of high charge rates are much much more effective and will allow better battery longevity. If one has a week to recharge, the trickle charger that seeks 14.4v+ is then 'just fine', but only then.
While many vehicle starting batteries fail soon after the vehicle is jump started, the fact is that most batteries were nearly done for and that minor loads were enough to deplete the capacity compromised battery to the point it required a jumpstart. The high amperage delivered by the alternator afterwards did not kill it, usually they had outlived their useful lifespan when the jumpstart was required and replacement would have been required soon, jumpstart or not.
It is more likely that when battery replacement after jumpstarting is required, the cause is the belief, held by 99.5% of the general public, is that the alternator is some all powerful, physics defying source of free energy than can somehow early instantaneously and magically fully charge a battery.
Reality is that while cool alternators spinning fast, have the potential to generate huge amperage numbers, is that the battery can only accept so much, and the vehicle's voltage regulator is designed to keep a nearly fully charged engine battery, somewhere near fully charged. It was never intended to properly charge additional depleted batteries tacked onto the end of the circuit.
So while a depleted battery might require 45 amps to be brought to and held at 14.5v,.... when the vehicle's voltage regulator decides that 13.7v is just fine and safe and lawyerly, the depleted battery might only need 8 amps to be held at 13.7 compared to the 45 amps needed to hold it at 14.5v.
You have an hour to drive to the next stop and need to work on the laptop for 6 hours, do you want 8 amps flowing into that depleted house battery, or 45amps? Sadly, one does not have the option of choosing. One is at the mercy of the vehicles voltage regulator decisions and they were programmed with a fully charged starting battery in mind.
AND even more importantly, say the vehicles voltage regulator decides to hold 14.7v( which it will not). Even then in this fairytale unicorn world, the battery would still require a minimum of 3.5 hours of driving to get from 80% charged to 100% charged.
There is simply no way to decrease the time it takes to reach full charge in the 80 to 100% charged range. A higher voltage 'could' do it, but not safely, and not reduce time all that much anyway. Rarely is it safe to bring a 12v lead acid battery above 14.8v, and when doing so the battery should be monitored for excessive heating.
So use any and all charging sources to get the battery to as high a state of charge as possible whenever possible. NO charging source is ideal, but SOOOO many of the well marketed smart chargers are NOT good for a regularly deep cycled battery, especially when DC loads are still present while plugged in and charging.
The RV converter is far superior in such instances where DC loads are still present, but one has to supply their own cables from converter to battery. hint, place converter close to but not in same compartment as flooded battery and use thick copper between the two for best performance.
Most Automatic chargers are marketed towards occasional garage use, and used on starting batteries. Those of us deeply cycling batteries daily, can do much much better than Noco or Ctek or Stanley or Schumacher, or any of the easily obtained battery chargers sold in retail stores in super shiny boxes that a team of overpaid marketers( lying *******s) have decided will catch your eye better than the product next to it
For occassional use these can be OK, and if one already owns such a charger, by all means employ it, Just be sure to check on it to make sure it did not get confused by DC loads still on the battery and shut itself off. Also when it first flashes the full charge indicator green light, practice your indignant 'Harrumph'. Unplug charger, Apply larger loads to reduce battery voltage to under 12.8v, and then restart charger. Lather rinse repeat, as most Automatic smart chargers quit in the 92 to 95% charged range, and achieving 100% charged should be the goal whenever one has access to grid power as 100% recharges are what the battery craves.
Later rinse repeating of restarting the automatic 'smart' charger after removing surface charge voltage is a method to trick the charger into accomplishing that 100% state of charge, and it might require a dozen restarts of the Automatic charger to trick it into performing the task which for which it was bought.
If one wants to upgrade their plug in charging source, then the RV converters from Iota and Progressive Dynamics will vastly outperform the regular automatic charger suspects.
But even these RV converters are not Ideal rechargers. In general they also will drop out of absorption voltage too soon, but if plugging in overnight this is not an issue. But if powering a generator simply to recharge batteries, this premature ending of absorption voltage is a waste of time gas and silence.
Those running a generator to recharge batteries can benefit greatly from a charging source that is forced to seek and hold a higher voltage the WHOLE time the generator is running.
My plug in charger is a 40 amp adjustable voltage switching power supply, and it will outperform any other 40 amps or 50 amp charging source, but it is NOT automatic. I have to be there to either shut it off, or reduce voltage once the battery has achieved full charge.
This power supply was 120$ taxed and delivered, but I have modified it with more ventilation and heatsinking and a finger twist voltage selection dial along with a wattmeter on the output so I can see how much it is delivering. It is also Ugly, and has no blinking lights.
Thread on it here for those interested:
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy
One does not have to seek ideal battery recharging, but one should have a general Idea what it consists of, and then decide how far they are willing to go towards it. It can be less stressful and perhaps less expensive to simply plan on replacing batteries more frequently. When one gets sick of this, then they can decide whether to continue on doing the same thing, or to upgrade to recharge better via better methods for longer battery life and a more reliable system.
At least Lead acid batteries are recycled well, but it still requires a lot of energy to recycle the Lead in a battery.
