Charging battery using inverter off vehicle power port.

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SoulRaven

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I am wanting to keep everything as portable as possible so here is what I finally decided to try to keep my 100 ah deep cycle battery charged while driving, and it worked, so far.
I have a Black and Decker smart charger that works with all different kinds of batteries. It will charge at 2, 10, or 25 amps. So, I hooked up my 1,000 watt inverter to the power outlet and then plugged my B&D charger to that and hooked it up to the 100 ah battery in the vehicle. I set it at the 2 amp setting and started the car and let it run for about 15 minutes. Then I shut it down and pulled the ciggy plug out and felt the end. To my pleasant surprise it was not even warm. I then set the charger to 10 amps and run the same test for 15 minutes. This time the plug was pretty warm to the touch, but not excessive. Still, I don't want to take any chances that it will blow a fuse. I will run it at 2 amps while driving. This should help keep the battery charged. I will keep the fridge hooked to the power plug in the rear of the cargo area and at the same time keep the charger plugged into the power port in the second row seating. This way I can run the fridge and charge the battery independently and switch to just battery power when stopped. 

Now of course, I know that 2 amps is a pretty slow rate to charge a battery, but I think that it beats not charging it at all. When I travel on road trips I usually drive about 4 or 5 hours a day, sometimes more, but not much. So I figure that should keep the battery charged. I will see how it works in a real life situation when I take my trip to the Natchez Trace that I am planning.
Here is a link to some more pics of the setup.
 
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...10&authkey=!AJZoH-6nbQnlVIQ&ithint=folder,jpg
 

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I'm sure you'll get better replies than mine, but it seems to me that a 100 ah battery being charged at 2 amps will take 50 hours to charge. I'll bet your set-up uses at least 4 amps (12-14 volts) to produce a 2 amp (12 - 14 volts) output. Your inverter is changing 12 volts to 110 ac, then your charger is changing 110 ac to 12 volts. I'll bet there's better ways to do that. You're paying for the electric output in increased fuel usage.
 
you will be miles ahead hooking the battery strait to your alt, or batt. you will eliminate the losses in the inverter and charger. highdesertranger
 
If you must do it this way, maybe a smaller inverter would be more economical than the big 1000w.
 
You'd probably get more than 2 amps just passing a 18 awg double ended male ciggy plug extension cord, and not beat up your inverter or charger unnecessarily.

The Inverter over a long AC extension cord charger/converter next to the batteries in the trailer is effective, when the Inverter is wired directly to the engine battery. Plugging it into a 12v socket in the back of the vehicle is going to limit what the inverter can power, and I suspect why you are only trying for the 2 amp rate. Going to a higher rate made your inverter squeal didn't it?

I understand making what you have work for you, but there are much better ways to accomplish what you are attempting.

2 amps is practically nothing.
 
"...but it seems to me that a 100 ah battery being charged at 2 amps will take 50 hours to charge."

Seems that is assuming (always dangerous to do) that the battery is drained totally and must be fully recharged from zero.
Ideally the battery will not be drained more than 50%. But I do agree, 2amp charge is just a 'maintainer' level charge, in daily use.
 
There is such a thing as thinking a good idea to death. You have been informed several times how to safely charge a house battery, and how not to by people who do this for survival. Continuing down the path of an extension cord will not do what you want or need. It could even cause catastrophic problems.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but a car fire is never pretty.
 
GotSmart said:
There is such a thing as thinking a good idea to death.  You have been informed several times how to safely charge a house battery, and how not to by people who do this for survival.    Continuing down the path of an extension cord will not do what you want or need.  It could even cause catastrophic problems.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but a car fire is never pretty.
I don't know if your extension cord comment was a euphemism or play on words to get across a meaning or point but if you were referring to the extension cord I referred to about connecting my panel to the controller, I got that idea from a blog post that Bob did a while back about installing a solar kit.  Here is a link to it. www.cheaprvliving.com/blog/installing-renogy-200-watt-solar-kit/
 
I do appreciate you warning me of the dangers of putting this type of system together. But I have been very careful to fuse everything and am running the charger only when I am traveling and driving. Also, the 1,000 watt inveter and smart charger is not straining at the 2.7 amp charge rate. The power plug and outlet are cool to the touch after driving for 30 minutes or so. I am watching things very closely. I also am aware that 2 to 3 amps charge rate is pretty slow but between that and also using the panel when stopped will keep the battery topped off pretty much since I am not going to deplete the battery too badly. I am not too concerned. I am not using much power for things.

Now as far as the extension cable is concerned, it is a heavy duty 12 awg RV power cord. In full sun the panel is putting out 20 volts and the cable has not caused it to have any voltage drop at all. It is perfectly safe. The wires are not getting the least bit warm.  I don't know why you don't think the extension cord is a good idea. I got the idea from a blog that Bob posted for his friend Dandelion.
 
If I sounded rude, I apologize.  


I keep seeing the same question asked in many different ways, as if by changing the wording you will get the answer you want.  
Any system is only as good as the weakest link.  Charging off of the factory lighter in my experience is asking for trouble.  The weakest link being the wire that is designed to run a single low wattage item.  I have posted what I used, and so has Sternwake.  A dedicated wire is run from the alternator to the house battery with the proper safety parts installed.  

What you have set up may work in your situation since you are driving a modern vehicle designed to handle multiple electronic components.  (cell phones, laptops, and gps all at the same time.) Most of the members here drive older vehicles with a much smaller power wire to the main dash outlet.  If they try the same thing, and do not pay close attention, a dash fire can erupt quickly.  

I have never been a fan of things cobbled together.  Especially electrical items.  

I have replaced too many knob and tube systems hidden in a "modern" home. Missing ground wires on 440 lines, bare wires behind panels...  Asbestos wrapped main lines in a short run down a steel conduit that was certified by a building inspector.  Electricity scares me only when it has been worked on by people with just enough knowledge to be dangerous. 
  
 
 
Look up the ratings on cigarette lighter plugs. Most cars have a limit of 10amps on the 12 volts there. Anything you connect that is below that amount, you will be fine.
 
http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html is a good refresher on battery science. 50% discharge means never going below 12 volts when using a 100ah battery. Of course that means you only have 50ah useful capacity. So at 2 amps you will need 25 hours to charge that battery. If you charge for 5 hour drive you only put in 10ah. So then when you use the battery you would only use 10ah. You could use more but you will need a full recharge later at some time.
 
GotSmart said:
If I sounded rude, I apologize.  
No, no, I didn't think you were being rude. No need to apologize. I really appreciate your input and advice. I just wasn't sure of statement about the extension cord. I didn't know if you were being witty about it kind of referring to how people push the limits of their electrical needs and distances by using them in all sorts of ways. But even though I am doing things somewhat different than the typical van application used here, I am trying to stay in a safe zone while doing so. And.....these tips and warnings from you and others help me be aware of the dangers. I try some things and then when they don't work out right tear them down and go a different route. Many of the suggestions, tips, and warnings have stopped me from doing a lot of things that would have turned out bad if I would have not paid attention and stopped .
 
offroad said:
http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html is a good refresher on battery science. 50% discharge means never going below 12 volts when using a 100ah battery. Of course that means you only have 50ah useful capacity.  So at 2 amps you will need 25 hours to charge that battery.  If you charge for 5 hour drive you only put in 10ah. So then when you use the battery you would only use 10ah. You could use more but you will need a full recharge later at some time.
Thanks for the link. Very interesting information. You think that after all these years of making deep cycle batteries that they would have improved to the point that you could run them down as much or not as much and they would last just as long. To me it seems very inefficient to only be able to cycle to only 50% to make the battery last and not do damage to it and to shorten its life. But of course the lith batteries are starting to move in and up to maybe be the deep cycle of choice. I will have to start doing some research on them.

 If they would have only listened to Edison when he started using an electric car. Imagine where we would be now if they would have taken up that technology and built on it.
  
 
I charged my dual 12 volt 7ah gel cell house batteries in my Prius using my 12 volt car battery through a true sine wave 400 watt inverter through a multi chemistry charger. I set the inverter up with a direct fused connection to the battery.

As I drove I was able to charge the house batteries a 2, 6, 8 amps with no problem.

I would have rather tied my house batteries direct but gel cells, although being lead acid batteries, have charging voltage that is not the same as the car 12 volt system.

Charging off the car is so much easier if you can do it.
 
That is why the newer battery technologies are so interesting, but so expensive right now. Our common batteries are still using late 19th/early 20th century design and technology, with only minor improvement over the decades.
 
offroad said:
Look up the ratings on cigarette lighter plugs. Most cars have a limit of 10amps on the 12 volts there. Anything you connect that is below that amount, you will be fine.

That is why I have four plugs set up with 15 amp fuses.  The maximum the Blue Seas has rated them for.  All wired seperately off of a dedicated fuse box.  

This is the set up before I wired everything.  
 

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I would be interested to see how newer vehicles power ports are wired, what gauge wire, and how many different circuits share the same fuse.

I've seen the '10 amp maximum' on newer vehicles power ports, and often think what non van dweller item is going to even approach 120 watts.  Gps, Tablets and Cell phones are likely the 3 most common things and they do not exceed 25 to 30 watts.

The Ciggy plugs are convenient for sure, however the fact remains that they are a poor spring loaded connection dependent of the the springs exerting enough pressure over enough surface area to make good electrical contact.  The springs  nor contacts, are not made from a highly conductive metal, little about the design is about achieving a great connection mechanically and electrically, and while they might handle 10 amps for a short duration, 10 amps for longer times is going to heat the contacts, causing more resistance, more voltage drop. Many devices will still require the same wattage at that lower voltage, so the amps actually increase as voltage decreases, causing more voltage drop and more heating, until something gives.

So In the interest of not wasting battery power heating up copper wires and ciggy plugs, elimination of ciggy plugs on devices capable of drawing more than 5 amps is wise.  When setting up ciggy plugs in a system, one should get the higher quality plugs, like the Blue seas or Marinco.  These can be bought with a mating male end which has an O Ring, which is designed to seal the seated connector from water intrusion, in boats, but it also keeps the plug from working loose.  When those ground springs on the sides, and that nipple spring on the tip are making good firm contact, then the connector is likely good for passing 15 amps safely.  But add some vibration to an older ciggy plug whose springs have weakened from repeated compression and heating cycles, and the plug can push its way out just far enough that the connection is just barely held, and things go downhill quickly from there.

How many of you can always seem to push your ciggy plug in a little deeper?  Does it stay there or instantly back its way out?

How many of you have ever cleaned the inside of your ciggy plugs receptacles.  The sides and tip mating surfaces can get quite ugly with dust and heat and other crap.

The quality of the male ends of the ciggy plugs also varies widely.  I found that the most capable male ends were those that did not incorporate fuses into them.  But they still developed issues.  I like how ciggy plugs you can just pull them out 1/4 inch to disconnect them electrically, but the side springs are still compressed, and over time they lose their ability to grasp the sides of the receptacle.


The basics of lead acid batteries have not changed in a hundred years and will not.  The composition of the lead paste on the plates and the separators are constantly being improved upon, and companies like Trojan and US Battery are constantly flaming each other as to who has the most durable golf cart battery, and will do anything to get that step ahead and convince the golf courses to choose their batteries over the competition.  One would hope this tech filters down to the marine and other pseudo 'deep cycle' batteries but by and large it does not.  The interior of a GC battery and a marine battery are so different, it is astounding.

Look at the pics in this article to see the difference for yourself:
 http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery

The 12 volt car jar batteries are all compromises, even if they say marine or deep cycle on them.  They simply are not built anywhere near as durable or heavy duty as a golf cart battery.  But that deep cycle sticker sure sells them and inspires confidence of the consumer, falsely, and that equals more profit for the top brass and a new shiny rock for baby. 

In the last 15 years, the trend in batteries, like everything else, has been to cheapen it as much as possible for maximum profit.  It is not about making the best product, it is about maximizing profit.  This is a delicate balance of manufacturing and materials costs vs warranty returns, and this second part is the hard part, because somebody can buy a battery, run it dead, leave it for two months, then stomp their feet and act surprised when it cannot be recharged, and go get a new one under warranty.  100% user error that the seller has to cover.

  This mostly applies to starting batteries, but then the marketers got in on the act and started putting 'deep cycle' in larger text next to the 'Marine' lettering, and presto, the public thinks a marine battery is a deep cycleable battery and is thus imparted with magical powers.

If one weighs a group 24 starting battery and weighs a group 24 marine battery, one will find very little weight difference.  The Marine battery should have thicker plates, weigh more and have lower CCA figures, in addition to the threaded posts as well as the standard automotive posts.  Will the marine battery actually weigh the 15% more as it should, or does it just cost 15% more?

Stevesway, In regards to your setup, a MSW Inverter powering a battery charger is nothing new.  While many things have absolutely no issue being powered on MSW, others run a bit hotter on them.  You could be shortening the life of the charger using this method.

The main reason people with trailers use the inverter on engine battery powering a battery charger feeding trailer batteries is the Voltage drop, AND the vehicle regulator dropping voltages to the mid to high 13's when it believes the starting battery is full.

If the vehicle decided that 13.7v is all that is required, and there is 1V drop over the wiring, then the 12.7v battery in the trailer gets nothing at all.  So the inverter powering a battery charger that tries to get the battery upto 14.7v is about a zillion times more effective.

Your rear powerport, powering an inverter powering a battery charger which is only providing 2.x amps to the trailer batteries is extremely inefficient, regardless of what you think your battery needs are.  The inverter is likely only 80% efficient, the charger is likely only 80% efficient at best, and Alternator amps are not free as so many people like to think.  Each 25 Amps the alternator makes requires about 1 engine horsepower.  So while it is hardly going to cause you to notice poorer MPG, this setup of yours is going to negatively affect your MPG to some small degree.

  MSW inverter will likely cause the battery charger to run hotter, shortening its life.  Inverters are also electrically Noisy.  I have read reports that a MSW inverters and PSW inverters being run off of the engine battery actually caused engine computer glitches, and in some cases outright stalling and undrivability.  I have not experienced this personally, but then again I rarely run an inverter at the same time the engine is running.

So your post kind of indicates you are proud of this setup, however there is nothing to be proud of.  It is extremely inefficient and there are problems lurking around every aspect of it like great white sharks spying seals on the surface waiting for an opportunity to strike.  If that Ciggy plug works its way loose while powering the inverter, then something in the inverter or the battery charger can take exception to this and release the magic blue smoke.  This might not happen the first time it happens, but is cumulative.

If you smoke the battery charger, where is the economy in that?  Not only do you no longer have a battery charger, but you need to buy a new one.

http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-KTA141...sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=147ND97WNXYBJX94R5M6

The product listed above will vastly increase the charging amps to trailer batteries, and costs less than a new battery charger, or inverter, or paying an automotive electrician to find out why your rear ciggy plug/powerport no longer works despite the fuse still being good.

if you are serious about using an inverter to power a battery charger, then eliminate the powerport.  wire the inverter right to the engine battery, run an 120V extension cord to the charger, and run it on the 12 amp setting.  At least that way some charging will occur.

2 amps is nothing to a depleted battery.  This whole double conversion process for only two amp charge rate is mystifying.
As much as I dislike Ciggy plugs, you would likely get more than 2 amps by a double ended Ciggy plug with 14 awg wire between rear powerport and trailer ciggy plug receptacle, and not risk your inverter or battery charger in the process, for 2 peasly amps.





 
 
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