Calling all insulation geeks! (XPS vs. Polyiso, etc.)

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DannyB1954 said:
...  I personally don't like foam board of any type. If moisture gets behind it for any reason, that moisture will not easily evaporate.

...

If something can get wet easy, it can dry easy as well. Under the front mats of all vehicles is a fiber insulation that all manufacturers use to keep engine heat and noise out of the passenger compartment. I bet the engineers know more than any of us. Everybody has spiled something in their vehicle. Did the floor rot out before it dried? Now spill something and cover it in a vapor barrier and see what happens. 
...

That has been one of my concerns as well.  Assume the sequence is like this:  foam board, vapor barrier (foil, plastic sheeting, whatever), van wall.  Moisture will certainly get between the vapor barrier and the van wall just due to air temperature changes, but how will it get out?  The answer might be -- the same way it got in.  But I'm concerned about trapping moisture in a place that cannot be inspected, and where the problem will not be known until the wall or floor starts rusting out.

All together, I'm thinking that I'll skip any type of vapor barrier, live with the reduction in insulating value, and have greater peace of mind.

But, I'm a bit confused:

* Whether gluing anything to the van wall is the best plan (to try to eliminate air spaces -- potential moisture pockets) or to skip the adhesive in order to purposefully let those air pockets exist so that they can ventilate.

* Even if a vapor barrier is skipped, it seems like that same moisture situation gets created between anything and the van wall (foam and van wall, etc). So, not sure that skipping the vapor barrier will bring the benefits that I imagine.

Any advice would be helpful.

Vagabound
 
DannyB1954 said:
A law of thermodynamics is heat flows from warm to cold. Not the other way around. The larger the temperature differences, the quicker the heat energy will move. Cold does not radiate. Heat is energy. Cold is a lack of energy. You can not have a lack of something flowing into a supply of something. It is impossible to add cold to anything. You can only move the heat. 

I looked at all the insulation that Home Depot sells. Per inch they are not all that different. What is a bigger factor is how do their other characteristics play in the installation. The best insulator that does not fit well into the space is not as good as the worst insulator that fits perfectly. I personally don't like foam board of any type. If moisture gets behind it for any reason, that moisture will not easily evaporate. I am especially leery of things that give off toxic fumes when they burn. 

I am leaning towards Denum. If something can get wet easy, it can dry easy as well. Under the front mats of all vehicles is a fiber insulation that all manufacturers use to keep engine heat and noise out of the passenger compartment. I bet the engineers know more than any of us. Everybody has spiled something in their vehicle. Did the floor rot out before it dried? Now spill something and cover it in a vapor barrier and see what happens. 

I did Transport Refrigeration for over 30 years. I was a Reefer Mechanic. Carrier Thermo-King, Mitsubishi Daikin etc. Over the road and sea going.

Phrase it anyway you want to:  Bottom line is we are saying the same thing: Yes, heat is energy, hence the reason its called Heat energy.  That is why I gave you the formula for heat load.  You do not move heat...heat creates a difference in pressure through the expansion of molecules.  Its not the larger the temperature difference, its the greater the pressure difference created by the heat that creates the "movement". If you are going to try to be a techno geek, try to understand the root causes to things include laws and the like. 

Likewise if you are on such a quest for the best, you might want to expand your resources beyond the barren shelves of Home Depot, where merchandise is deliberately chosen to create the allusion of choice, while at the same time minimizing the number of skews inventoried, and essentially making the most mass marketed choice accepted.  

You wrote, "What is a bigger factor is how do their other characteristics play in the installation. The best insulator that does not fit well into the space is not as good as the worst insulator that fits perfectly."

I absolutely agree with you here.  Another reason to look beyond the conventional or Home Depot type products if you are truly hellbent on the ultimate solution. But then putting the ultimate solution into anything less than the ultimate vehicle isn't that sort of pointless?

You also wrote, "I personally don't like foam board of any type. If moisture gets behind it for any reason, that moisture will not easily evaporate. I am especially leery of things that give off toxic fumes when they burn."

Agreed, Agreed and agreed twice again.  Hence the reason I attempted to address the subjects of installation, moisture barriers, and air sealing and air exchanges and also why I provided you with a reference source for expanding your knowledge and understanding of the matter. 

Nonetheless you state you don't intend to use moisture barriers, you make no mention of air sealing and you clearly pay no attention to air exchanges, so clearly you are not going to create the ultimate insulation environment, so all of the rest of the discussion is just rather pointless.

As you responded to my comments about engineers, you've clarified my justification of the comment with your own statement of, "I did Transport Refrigeration for over 30 years. I was a Reefer Mechanic. Carrier Thermo-King, Mitsubishi Daikin etc. Over the road and sea going."

Based on "protocol" you simply implement what the engineers determine, and spec regardless of knowledge of your own.  It would be like my saying "I know transport refrigeration because I was a truck loader at a refrigerated beverage plant (true) and a Tractor Trailer Reefer Driver (true) for over a million miles.  So what? Neither puts you in the know on all matters or subjects, anymore than my being a Certified Energy Auditor, or DOH Energy Auditor, or a Certified Insulation Knowledge provider (all true).  This isn't my first rodeo.  I've also been the lead negotiator and captain of a few debate teams. What I really do? I learn more of what I've yet to learn each day. 

Gents and ladies its been fun on this threat talking about insulation options, but what I've concluded is some seek answers, some seek confirmation, you seek arguments.  Best of luck.  I'm out. 

Travel warm in your journey's and journey to warm places, but above all, travel safe.
 
Of course heat is moved. What do you think a refrigerator, air conditioner or heat pump do? Once heat is created it can not be destroyed, only moved. The evaporating gas absorbs heat from it's environment. The compressor pushes this gas into a smaller volume. This causes the temperature to rise so that it is warmer than it's environment. The heat is removed, (usually by a fan), and the refrigerant returns to a liquid. It then makes the same trip once more. A refrigerator moves heat from the inside to the outside. Same with an air conditioner. A heat pump is a reversed air conditioner, (it moves heat from the outside to the inside).

I am not the one professing to be the scholar, but I really do feel obligated to not have others mislead. If you want to use laws of Thermodynamics to back up your position, you really should know what they are. Before working in refrigeration, I worked with steam. I don't know why my career involved heat energy and transfer, that's just the way it happened.

On insulation I prefer material that will wick the moisture to where it can be evaporated. People do not wear vapor barriers for clothing because it would make them wet and stinky. When you keep moisture from moving, you have to make sure it never gets to where it can not evaporate.
About a quest for the best, that is not where I am at. There are diminishing returns with most things. You could have vacuum panels made for the vehicle which would make it more like a thermos bottle. The cost would be astronomical. so you would save $30 a month for fuel, but it would cost you dozens of thousands to do it.
 
Very little connection between any of that, and the real topic of the thread.  Anyone for a redirect back in a more useful direction?

Vagabound
 
Vagabound said:
Very little connection between any of that, and the real topic of the thread.  Anyone for a redirect back in a more useful direction?

Vagabound

Kind of the pot calling the kettle black. Your post #7 was mostly about the topic? What goes around comes around.
 
DannyB1954 said:
Kind of the pot calling the kettle black. Your post #7 was mostly about the topic? What goes around comes around.

1.  Post # 7 was directly related to keeping the thread on topic and productive.  Unfortunately, it required a lot of explaining (and a bit of venting).

2.  I started this thread.  I get to say what's on topic.

3.  Removed by Moderator.

Note from Moderator: Just a reminder - While the thread does need to stay on topic, it is NOT up to the Original Poster to determine what is on topic and what is not.

Let's keep it on topic folks!!

Vagabound
 
While I'm hesitant to rekindle the permanent foodfight that is insulation ... where angels fear to tread and all that stuff:

If a person were to momentarily forget about every other difference between these two types of insulation, and only focus on which is easier to cut, glue, etc etc, what can be said about that?

Vagabound
 
I'll chime in with my oppinion. It is a laymen's perspective gained from using both xps and polyiso to insulate a tiny house on a trailer that I built last year.

I insulated the floor with felt faced polyiso that was jobsite leftovers from a commercial roofer. It was easy to cut with a sharp stanley knife and a straight edge. It was easy to place, sometimes forcefully when cut a little too big. It did not tend to break when handled roughly, but the felt facing helped make it tough.

After framing walls I bought $1000 worth of blue foam board from lowe's to insulate it. Cost was the deciding factor on this purchase. The foam was sitting on my trailer for three days waiting for me to get to that job. Cleaning up at the end of day three, I heard "crunching" sounds coming from the trailer. I saw blue dust on the ground when I looked closer and when I pulled the sheets out I found that carpenter ants had made my investment their home.

While I was swearing up a storm and trying to decide what to do about it, I noticed the polyiso scraps were untouched by the ants. The next day I returned all of the sheets that didn't have holes bored in them and brought back foil faced polyiso to do the job.

The house was insulated with about a 50/50 split of blue board and polyiso. As for cutting, I used both a stanley knife and circular saw to make cuts. Both cut easily with sharp blades and both made an equally large mess. Both kinds installed easily into the bays.

Had it not been for the ants, there would have been some savings realized and due to the tightness of the house I would likely not have noticed any difference in performance.

Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk
 
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Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk
 
An interesting and potentially significant difference, if one expects to be anywhere near carpenter ants.  It is hard to explain why one thing wants to eat another thing.  Knew a bassett hound once that ate glow sticks and VCR tapes.  Go figure.

Thanks, Sabatical, for shining a light on this difference,

Vagabound
 
highdesertranger said:
at least you could pick up the poop in the dark.  highdesertranger

My new name for you is "Mr. Bright Side" ;-)

Vagabound
 

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