Buying a used class c , what issues should I look for?

[Whatagranny]

:huh: Hi, I’m considering buying a 1989 Ford 350 (351?) V8 Escaper Class C with 97k miles on it. What should I be aware of before doing so?

 

[Doubleone]

Consider that's a 30 year old rig... it could be in most any condition from absolutely fine to ultimate fail.  It all depends on how the previous owner used and stored it.  It's just like buying a used car, except you also have to buy a used house with it...  When I consider buying used stuff, and negotiating price, I evaluate 'worst case' and what kind of money and time I need to put into fixing things...  There will always be something that needs fixed on an old RV, and that's even after you own it.  Both car and house need to be considered...  I suggest to get it inspected by someone who knows RV's and also get a mechanic to inspect the engine, drive train, brakes, suspension.  First impressions, if it smells dank or moldy inside then it has roof leaks and that's a major problem issue because the walls could be rotted inside and not worth repairing.  You'll never really get the mold smell out of it and some people get sick from mold.  You might also see stains on the interior ceiling or peeling wallpaper as an indication of water damage.  Roof leaks are common and a minor corner or small area is not too worrisome as long as it doesn't smell.  But walk away from any significant water damage...because it's big $$$$.  About that time frame was when manufacturers transitioned to better appliances and most every RV maker was using the same stuff.  Mid 90's for sure will have a lot of repair parts and manuals available, but mid to late '80's I'm not so sure 'cause you're right on the bubble.  In the house, check all the appliances and things like fridge, stove, water pump, water heater.  All need to be checked for operation as well as leak check the LPG hoses and lines.  Be on the look out and  wary of previous owner self-repairs or monkey'd up work.  Generator will likely need a carburetor replaced/rebuilt and oil change because the carburetors clog up when in storage.  One indication of this would be a smell of old gasoline in the tank.  The '80's RV's had old style noisy generators and it was about that time frame when they started going to the more quiet styles.  RV's mostly sit, so I always think tires might be needed. You can find date codes on the tires and replace them at 5 years old (4yrs for Michelins) regardless of tread depth.  Check and change all the fluids, anything rubber on the engine and under the chassis, front to back.  An older rig can be a real gem or a potential can-o-worms.  Just get someone you know and trust to look at it and consider costs of repairs...

 

[Whatagranny]

Wow! You have certainly given me a through checklist. Thanks so much.

 

[RoamerRV428]

Do you know and understand RVs and their systems? If yes, you been there done that then you truly know what to inspect a bit just seeing it first hand.

If you have no idea at all on what you are truly buying then I would recommend an RV Inspection first before purchase.

rv's can be super costly for the 'guts', I ain't even talking about the motor that drives it yet

same thing on motor, thorough inspection before purchase then it is kinda a crapshoot on your knowledge of rigs and what you are willing to tackle for fixes and what you can't handle.

hope some of that info helps ya you could be buying the best deal of your life and all is good or the worst old vehicle/rv that is out there for purchase and be a friggin' nightmare. Older ya go the scarier things do get in rv situations mostly.

 

[highdesertranger]

"Hi, I’m considering buying a 1989 Ford 350 (351?) V8 Escaper Class C with 97k miles on it. What should I be aware of before doing so?"

everything. I am not kidding. 30 year old class C you need to check everything.

highdesertranger

 

[Hoot]

Echo all of the above. Don't try to economize on cost of inspectors, and ask their advice and expectation for the near term. Lastly, I think the degree of integrity of the seller is paramount. If he gets upset about depth of inspection or time it takes, what's that say about him? If you were a seller of integrity would you be fussing about such?
I got lucky when I bought my first old one but if I had to do it over again I'd force myself to look at and walk away from at least several, call them dress rehearsals, just too easy to let emotions steer one wrong without some prior experience of looking, asking questions, getting a sense of the seller, and walking away for at least a day.

 

[PODebbie]

I don't know anything specific about the vehicle you are considering, but a 30 year old vehicle has me concerned. I don't know if it was 10,15, or 20 years ago, but cars/vans used to only go 100,000 miles before they were junk. After the Toyota's and Honda's hit it big, the big 3 automakers improved their game. Nowadays, cars routinely go much longer mileage. So, I just caution you about applying today's standards to 30 year's ago standards.

 

[highdesertranger]

well I kinda disagree with that statement. how many 40 year old Toyota's and Honda's do you see on the road? my truck is 41 years old and I see many everyday still in use as work trucks. I see no Toyota's or Honda's. you might get 10 trouble free years out of them but at 20 they are done. highdesertranger

 

[PODebbie]

Yeah, I know I don't know much. Maybe the 100,000 mile of good life was just for cars and trucks/vans were different. I should of kept my mouth shut.

 

[Uncle Todo]

I'm guessing this one you're looking at is a good deal which is why you're looking at it.
I would expect in the long run to spend about what you would on the short run for something newer.
If you can DIY it, or have friends and/or family that can help, I'd say go for it.
Otherwise you may want to consider something newer to have a better overall experience and ownership enjoyment.

Wow, didn't see thread was last year...

 

[bullfrog]

You can turn that around though HDR. Competition makes for improvements. Most of the Hondas and Toyotas went several thousand more miles with less repairs and better overall fuel mileage than Ford, Dodge or GM even though they were taken out of service at a younger age. Granted they probably carried less weight and were better maintained. Problem in my opinion is most Class C motorhomes are close to their weight limits and do a lot of sitting neither of which help longevity. Which means for me the thing to look for is where to park it when it wears out or dies of old age as it is too expensive to fix. You see a lot more sitting than you do going down the road.

 

[Whatagranny]

Thx., Bullfrog, I wound up buy a short skoolie and my son and grandson have made it livable. I’m hoping to join up in January for the first time with Suanne and Bob. God willing and the creek don’t rise. Lol.

 

[bullfrog]

It won’t have sat and most likely gotten good regular maintenance. They are built on the heavy side but are much more sturdier. Usually front end suspension components are the first major things to wear out so keep an eye on those. If you look at building cabinets with canvas covered foam insulation which requires very little skill or tools you can keep it really light weight. Removing the electric wheel chair lift if it is on the curb side will prevent future problems and weight as well.

 

[user 423]

Thx., Bullfrog, I wound up buy a short skoolie.

What year and brand did you buy?

I missed out on an older Dodge I wanted really badly in Tucson. The seller couldn't find the title:

 

[wayne49]

I own and drive a 1989 Ford E350 based Tioga class C, currently 55K miles. Not yet to 97K though.

Replaced batteries and tires first thing. Nobody ever replaces those, once they stop using the RV.

No problems other than old (original most likely) brake fluid and the original master cylinder inner seals leaking with new fluid, plus the original belts and hoses were still in use.

The engine/tranny runs strong, brakes are good. Starts right up. Gulps gasoline, 6-8 mpg driving 55. It gets me where I'm going and back.

The only thing that is permanently out is the A/C, it uses older Freon and cannot be serviced, only replaced with a rebuilt compressor. I got through Summer 2020 without it.

The house was where many problems existed. Electrical gremlins, such as the range hood monitor had a broken ground circuit. Roof leaks. Window leaks. RV door issues. Application of Eterna-Bond and Dicor for the leaks, and rebuilding the RV door with a better frame, built back better, in Uncle Joe's parlance. Soldered a jumper on the board for the ground.

The 1989 charge/converter was an ancient tech unit even then, reminded me of pre transistor tube based stereo amplifiers/receivers, replaced with a Progressive Dynamics slide in replacement.

 

[bullfrog]

^^^Sounds about right if you live somewhere rust or blowing sand isn’t a problem and you get a good one, as in the oil seals haven’t all dried out and start leaking.

 

[ky jr]

class c's almost always leak over the cab where the bed is i'm sure there are exceptions but i haven't seen one. check the roof are there places with cracks where the sealant has failed. if so go in side and look in that section for damage push on the wall and ceiling for weak spots if its really rotted out your finger could go right through the wall.it should be solid no give. dose the generator work well thats a big expense to have repaired. solar is overrated i would not buy a rv without a generator even if i have a wall of solar. does it smell like mold on the inside that stuff will kill you i am having that problem with my rv now its almost impossible to get rid of without tearing the walls out. plumbing does it all work water pump good. floors are there any soft spots , tires any dry rot cracks in the sidewalls how old are they. does it start easy run smooth take a long drive up to expressway speeds will tell you a lot that's a start like the other person said take your time its your money. good luck

 

[Freelander]

The problem with the leak over the cab is, you have a rubber seal where the bed touches the cutaway cab, the bed will move just enough to make it leak. I don't think they make a Class C that doesn't leak at the cab. The best way is to make sure the front is not pointed into the rain.

I don't Class c style shuttle busses for a few years and everyone of them leaked.

 

[Cammalu]

Lots of Class Cs don’t have that window over the windshield.