Best refrigeration methods

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Nice setup, HDR. 

I don't live year around in my cargo trailer camper, but I do sometimes camp for several months at a time.  This summer I camped in the mountains for 3 and a half months straight as the western states were all covered in smoke. When it gets smoky in the valleys I camp in the high elevation mountain areas as my lungs react to the smoke lower down.  I am usually above 7,000 ft. 

If I wear a high grade filter mask I can go down to a town once in awhile for a quick supply run.  I don't do that very often as it might require a 60 to 80 mile round trip on dirt roads and wearing the mask is a pain and doesn't always block it all.

I started out using an ice chest and it would keep up to 7 or 8 days of cold if I started with good hard ice from home.  Obviously after the ice melts .. no more cooler foods. I have usually eaten them by then anyway. 

The large water bottles that previously were ice I now put out in the back of my truck at night.  Nighttime temperatures and "solar loss" of a clear night sky at high elevation will cool them into the 30 to 40 degree zone.  They then kept my cooler at quite a nice temp through the day.   No, I was not using it as a refrigerator then just as a cooler for water and juice packs etc.  

A lot of things that we put in our home fridges don't need full refrigeration.  Most of the condiments can either be left our or you can get the small one use travel packets such as from minimus.biz.   I also have a small mesh hammock that hangs next to my kitchen cabinet.  It holds a lot of salad stuff and fresh vegetables.  I usually wrap a damp towel around it.  That provides a cooler effect and increased the humidity for them.  I have kept and used heads of lettuce, cabbage, celery, and carrots for several weeks this way.  (also trim the bottom root lightly and place a damp, folded up paper towel folded up paper towel over it.) I also hang the hammock from cup hooks on the ceiling so it can swing free when I am traveling.  That keeps the my fruits and veggies from getting bounced and bruised. 

Here is the hammock in travel position with a bag of chips in it for illustration purposes.  
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Small cherry tomatoes and things like peppers and zucchini will also keep a long time on the counter.  Green onions will stay alive and even grow if you put their roots in a cup with a little water on a paper towel in the bottom.  Make your own vinegar and oil dressing or use the small packets of ranch etc.  They don't need a fridge either.  Milk can be the shelf stable, regular or non-dairy, or Nido brand pwd milk works well in many uses.   Waxed cheeses (such as mini bells) also keep without refrigeration.  I wax my own blocks.  Eggs I get from a local farmer and leave on the counter.  By putting a thin layer of Vaseline on store bought eggs they too will last.  If you aren't sure check them in a pan of water.  Mine have kept a very long time.


With no refrigeration choices of meats and some other foods is usually canned, dehydrated, or freeze dried. They all work well.  When I am home I make my own dehydrated and canned, but there are lots of places to buy dehydrated and freeze dried products. 

This last spring I bought the Engel MR040F from https://www.engelcoolers.com/12volt-fridge-freezers.html  on their sale.  It is cheaper there than on Amazon etc.  I run it as a freezer only and don't do a fridge at all.  Sometimes I may cool leftovers overnight with a frozen water bottle, but for the most part I have found that I don't really need a fridge or cooler.  It is nice to have the freezer for individual packets of meats, leftovers, and frozen yogurt.   :D 

I ran it all summer as a freezer (more amps than as a fridge, but still not much) with a one hundred watt solar panel and a small 75 amp hour marine battery.  The is probably the lower limit of watts and storage.  The battery is too small and ageing so it will be replaced in a year or two with 2 deep cycle golf cart batteries.  This fall I also got another 100 watt panel.

I love having the freezer.  It is a nice luxury.  I don't miss not having a fridge too.  

So my opinion for the CosmickGold is use a 12v fridge with solar. Yes, cost is upfront, but I don't have to make propane runs either. 

Propane fridges can work, but it is slow to cool and sometimes the temps inside can get into risky levels.  At least the one in my mom's motor home did.  It was a pain to get it to work right, so maybe I am soured on a bad one.
 
I hope that this is helpful to some.
 
just a FYI I believe you are referring to inverters. an inverter takes 12v and inverts it to 120v AC. a converter takes 120v AC and converts it to 12v DC to run 12v accessories and charge a battery bank. all the newer propane refrigerators take a small 12v load to run the board. so if you don't intend to install an electrical system how are you going to charge your phone, run a computer, or recharge anything. highdesertranger
 
Just FYI: Some new portable propane fridges don't need DC, but they do have a standing pilot light. 

No DC needed, but then, they use more propane.

So...no free ride there!
 
tx2sturgis said:
Just FYI: Some new portable propane fridges don't need DC, but they do have a standing pilot light. 

So how do they regulate the temperature inside the box?
 
Yes I'd really appreciate some links to portable propane only fridges.

I lived off-grid for decades with propane-only, but it was a full-size house fridge.

HDR, it doesn't turn off and on, constant cycling, absorption only, just a screw adjustment on the propane output right at the flame.
 
highdesertranger said:
An inverter takes 12v and inverts it to 120v AC
A converter takes 120v AC and converts it to 12v DC

CosmickGold
Thanks for explaining the difference between "inverter" & "converter".  I didn't know, didn't even realize there were two words to use.

highdesertranger said:
All the newer propane refrigerators take a small 12v load to run the board.  So if you don't intend to install an electrical system, how are you going to charge your phone,  run a computer,  or recharge anything?

CosmickGold
I do plan to have an electrical system.  At this point, it seems best to get a house battery matching my engine battery, so they can both charge from the engine alternator together. This system will include (1) a solenoid switch to separate the two batteries when the engine is not running. (2) A 400w converter to run my computer, etc.  And (3) a Voltage Sensing Relay (VSR) that disengages the house battery from all it's uses when battery voltage is too high (while charging) or too low (when battery is nearly drained).

Running a propane frig's circuit board from the above circuitry is no problem. For it's electrical cooling that takes many times more power, quickly draining any battery. And that's what I'm avoiding with propane.
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
So how do they regulate the temperature inside the box?

I haven't taken one apart but I would assume it's a simple bulb thermostat and combination valve similar to what is used on any gas heater or oven. Of course it's for cold temps, not heat.
 
"So how do they regulate the temperature inside the box?"

not very well. highdesertranger
 
hugemoth said:
Being vegetarian I don't have to preserve meat, eggs, milk, etc.. My camper has a 48 watt solar panel wired directly to a Coleman thermo-electric cooler so it runs any time the panel is in the sun. No battery involved. Works for me but has obvious limitations like not working when parked in the shade on a hot day, not working on cloudy warm days, etc.. The cooler itself is very well insulated so it keeps the heat out pretty well even when not being powered.

I used those Coleman thermo electric coolers in my big truck for a while.  The top fan will stop working (they all do) and I figured out that the bearings in the fan are the problem.  I took it apart and cleaned it out really good and then added a few drops of that Lucas hub oil to it before putting it back together.  Worked perfectly for a few years after that.  When I sold it, it was still working.  Couple of times it got so cold it actually froze a bottle of water.
 
Rainier70 said:
This last spring I bought the Engel MR040F from https://www.engelcoolers.com/12volt-fridge-freezers.html  on their sale.  It is cheaper there than on Amazon etc.  I run it as a freezer only and don't do a fridge at all.  Sometimes I may cool leftovers overnight with a frozen water bottle, but for the most part I have found that I don't really need a fridge or cooler.  It is nice to have the freezer for individual packets of meats, leftovers, and frozen yogurt.   :D 

I ran it all summer as a freezer (more amps than as a fridge, but still not much) with a one hundred watt solar panel and a small 75 amp hour marine battery.  The is probably the lower limit of watts and storage.  The battery is too small and ageing so it will be replaced in a year or two with 2 deep cycle golf cart batteries.  This fall I also got another 100 watt panel.

I love having the freezer.  It is a nice luxury.  I don't miss not having a fridge too.  

So my opinion for the CosmickGold is use a 12v fridge with solar. Yes, cost is upfront, but I don't have to make propane runs either.  >>


Kind of what I was thinking, using one to freeze my ice jugs and using the ice chest for refrigeration.  I have a renogy suitcase solar and would be using one battery.
 
The Unique fridge seems to have a AAA battery powered ignition so that one might not use a standing pilot light.
 
Google "polar tubes", just glue-capped 2" PVC, cut to the right length and filled 85% full with seawater.

I plan to work out clips to hang them from a cooler lid, top of the space.

Rotate between the cooler and a freezer whenever generating excess solar power, or long trips off the Alt, "free energy" storage.

Will likely stay cold 6-8 days in a decent cooler box, certainly longer than open ice in a "polar cooler", no leaks, no water, more space efficient. . .
 
I like his philosophy and presentation style, but Reflectix style sheeting is **barely** worth using for insulation.

https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+yeti+OR+super-cooler

_____
Best is a combination of two rigid foams, XPS at say 25% of the thickness (at least 1/2", 1" better) closest to the cold side

with polyiso toward the warm side for maximum R-value, at least 2", 4" total is best.

This combination has been objectively test-proven by leading makers of custom fridge/freezer boxes for yachts, systems costing $3-6,000 dollars.

Effective sealing and insulation are by far the most important factor in both effectiveness and energy efficiency of the system.

It's also the least expensive part of the project.
 
John61CT said:
I like his philosophy and presentation style, but Reflectix style sheeting is **barely** worth using for insulation.

https://www.google.com/search?q=diy+yeti+OR+super-cooler

_____
Best is a combination of two rigid foams, XPS at say 25% of the thickness (at least 1/2", 1" better) closest to the cold side

with polyiso toward the warm side for maximum R-value, at least 2", 4" total is best.

This combination has been objectively test-proven by leading makers of custom fridge/freezer boxes for yachts, systems costing $3-6,000 dollars.

Effective sealing and insulation are by far the most important factor in both effectiveness and energy efficiency of the system.

It's also the least expensive part of the project.

Quick question for you - I'm thinking that rather than "yetify" a cheap cooler - why not skip the cheap cooler and just build my own super-insulated box? I only use blue ice packs or frozen water bottles anyway...
 
Absolutely.

Boats get custom built boxes much more frequently than using OTS ones.

Challenge with a portable one is strength vs light weight. Fiberglass is great tech but an acquired skill.

Investigate purchasing pre-made lids that seal well, they're tricky to DIY.

And a waterproof but food-safe interior lining.
 
CosmickGold said:
Hi all! 

(1) LIVE WITHOUT IT: 


... hot-dogs

Saw this and couldn't stop laughing!

You need to get 300-400w of solar, buy a Morningstar controller, some really nice AGMs, then get someone to install it all for you to run your 12v fridge
 
Very much an exaggeration and over-simplification.

But yes, that category is best
 
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