Best interior paint over fiberglass/wood?

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Svenn

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I built a custom sleeping area and shower room in the bed of my truck out of plywood and fiberglass so it's all seamless and smooth... what's the best final coating for a high gloss, scratch resistant, waterproof finish?  I've been reading about gelcoat, colored resins, etc but it's confusing.  What do they paint the inside of molded showers with?
 
Molded fiberglass showers are likely a gelcoat applied to a waxed mold before the fiberglass is applied.

You can mix pigments mixed into epoxy, or polyester resins.

https://systemthree.com/products/epoxy-paste-pigment

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Polyester_Resins/polyester_resins.html

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/polyester/Pigment.pdf

Polyester resins polish better than epoxy, but epoxy can dry extremely glossy, but if it does not lay down acceptably perfect, each imperfection will be glaringly obvious, and sanding epoxy to get it glossy does not work so well, even wetsanding to 3000 grit, it will have a slight haze, and not be as glossy as if it were not sanded after curing.

Epoxy is more scratch resistant than polyester resins.

Polyester resins are often called, sold as fiberglass resin. they require a wax to rise to the surface to seal the resin below and allow it to cure 100% and be sandable. This wax/surfacing agent will not leave a glossy surface, it must be sanded then polished.

Polyester resins are more heat and UV resistant, and cheaper.
The final coat in polished polyester surfboards is a Gloss resin with extra UV protectants also designed to lay down very flat and be resistant to dust/ fisheyes.

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/polyester/32737.pdf


Epoxy's bond strength to wood is much stronger.
 
Thanks SternWake; do you know where I can buy epoxy for this purpose? West Marine?
 
Svenn said:
Thanks SternWake; do you know where I can buy epoxy for this purpose?  West Marine?

West marine Might only carry West systems epoxy.

I do not like West system as it has a 4 to 1 or 5 to one resin/hardener mixing ratio, and this leaves a lot of room for error in mixing.

If epoxy is mixed improperly it will not cure properly to its maximum strength/ hardness.  One has a bout a 3% margin for error before it gets really noticeable.  I've started weighing the epoxy and hardener on a digital scale as mixing smaller batches by volume, even with a 2:1 ratio,  can lead to improper ratios.  When mixing by weight the ratio is usually 100:45 or 43 or 44 depending on the epoxy.

When large batches of epoxy are mixed, you cannot let them remain mixed in the mixing cup for very long, you must spread them out thinner quicker to give more time to apply the epoxy before it starts thickening.  if left in the cup too long it might get so hot as to catch fire.  This exotherming is an issue with large batches or to those new to learning working with epoxy.

My favorite epoxy is System3 but it is expensive.

Recently I bought a lower$ surfboard epoxy from this place:
http://www.fiberglasssource.com

Apex epoxy 1.5 gallon kit.  Looks like they are having website issues.  This is a fairly fast setting epoxy with it being hard enough to touch after 3 hours, but a 100% full cure will take a few days

I can drive to a store, but all other epoxy I have used has been ordered, except the West system epoxy I used just the once, long ago, that I bought in a marine type of store.

working with these Epoxies, there is a learning curve.  I am not 100% sure this is the best product for your application.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1000/1906/files/The_Epoxy_Book.pdf?1285685231865784556

There are some bartop epoxies sold in home stores, which are less expensive than surfboard epoxies can can be easier to work with, with their self levelling properties, and a surfacing agent to prevent dust or contamination from causing fisheyes or craters to form.

The fisheyeing can be a real annoying  issue, and when it occurs can be very labor intensive to fix and lay down another coat.  Usually surface contamination is the issue, so proper prep and minimal dust are required to achieve the best results.
 
I have zero experience with those products, I'd be totally guessing as to how well/easy they are to apply and their longevity/durability in your application.

I can only say to but one or the other and experiment and test on some scraps before committing to them.

Is UV light going to be a consideration?
 
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