Best bang for your buck on lead acid batteries?

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if you are in an area of lots of golf courses with clients shingling their roof with black amex cards you should have no trouble finding used golfcart batteries just a couple years old for cheap.

check out the interstate batteries storefronts. ask about their econo power golf cart batteries. also check other "mom n pop" family (not chain) battery only stores, if you have golf courses around you will have these store. i spend a lot of time in a city metro area of way less than 100,000 people and we have 3 of those stores and the next city down the highway has several more. they all have the used/reconditioned golfcart batteries. especially in the spring as the weather start getting nice

as for RV batteries, if you dont have a decent charging system in place then ya, go for them cause you will kill the golfcarts just as quick if you dont get the fully charged regularly. so if you are just going to sacrifice batteries buy the cheapest

once you get a decent charging system put together that can fully recharge your batteries the golf carts will far out last the RV batteries. especially if you look at life time amphours . for example of what i mean in life time amp hours consider a battery that you use 100 amp hours per cycle and you cycle this each day and lets say it lasts a year. that would be 36500 amp hour lifetime. now if you had a battery that you use 200 amp hours per cycle and you cycle that each day you would hit the same 36500 amp hour lifetime in only 6 months. so ya, the battery lasted half the time but provided the same lifetime amp hour capacity.

now if we look at the trojan charts for lifetime cycles vs depth of discharge which can be found here under "cycle life chart" https://www.trojanbattery.com/products/deep-cycle-flooded/signature-line-flooded-2/

if we look at the "50% discharge" it shows 1200 cycles. then when we look at the "80% discharge" it shows 750 cycles. so if we do the math on a 200 amp hour battery 50% discharge would be 100 amp hours times 1200 cycles for 120,000 amp hours life time capacity. and at 80% discharge from the 200 amp hour battery we have 160 amp hours per cycle times 750 cycles for 120,000 amp hours life time capacity. this chart if from trojan and covers all their big deep cycle batteries 6 volt golf carts and some of their big 12volt deep cycles.

as you see the life time amp hour capacity is the same. the old "50%" rule of thumb (that's all it was) comes from the days of homestead type systems where weight/space had no bearing (i was there) and systems were designed around the 50% rule of thumb to allow a system that has aged and lost capacity to still perform satisfactory and for a system to handle the occasional extended/unexpected storm

as mobile users where weight is important why would i carry around extra batteries just so they last a couple extra years. dont fret over the mythical 50% depth of discharge rules. use a lighter smaller and cheaper battery bank and in the end you will pay the same per amp hour lifetime.

you also get the added benefit of more efficient charging all the way from 80%dod (depth of discharge) to 20%dod  where the power in, is damn near equal to the power stored. where as once you get past approx 20%dod the efficientcy of charging drops of considerably



it is FAR MORE IMPORTANT to get your batteries fully charged as often as possible than it is to worry about the mythical 50% dod

partial state of charge (POSC) cycling kills lead acid batteries due to sulfation regardless of their quality cost or composition... and that results in fewer life time amphours and just costs you money
 
This is a bit of a modern day parlor trick BUT I have a nephew getting married in May. An informal cookout reception. So I've had a great hair brained idea. If I have all the components ready to go I want to have an inverter, panels, 12v fridge, and ice maker. We have a homemade ice cream maker already. How neat would it be to make icecream using the sun for the reception?! Haha. I need an icemaker anyway and I'll be needing the rest of the equipment anyway. The reception is out in the sticks anyway and we're all pretty well hippies and rednecks so I think it would be a neat field test of my setup as well as a sort of neato trick to use sunlight to make frozen treats for the party. :p
 
I'll look at that link shortly. Yes there should be an outflux of used golf cart batteries around here but most of those end up in the hands of dope fiends. The scrap yards pay I think 20 bucks for an automotive battery core. Batteries, scrap iron, copper wiring, pipes, anything not nailed down, etc is subject to the meth menace. They even had to pass a law that restricted the salvage sale of cemetary vaults and grave marker placards to liscensed mortuary professionals.
 
im a cheap ******* like you and ped. got the same cheapass walmart 29s and a used $30 dorm fridge. don't understand why people
pay 5-10 times more for lithium and a dometic. in a few years, they'll be much much cheaper.
 
I tried to be a cheap ******* with refrigeration.

started with ice chest, ice cost way to much in some camps going to get ice meant driving all day to get ice and then there is no guarantee that the small store even has it that day. in the trash

then tried a RV refer. so now instead of having to make ice runs we were making propane runs.. only a slight improvement. in the trash

next 12v coolers. forget it wouldn't keep up with ambient temps at all and sucked a ton of juice. in the trash

next up dorm fridge. nope barely kept up with ambient temps, sometimes couldn't. sucked a lot of power seemed like as much as the 12V coolers. in the trash.

finally a 12v refrigerator, dang should have done this to begin with. all that money I wasted trying to avoid paying for a 12v refrigerator. if I just would have bought one to begin with I would be dollars ahead.

highdesertranger
 
my cheap fridge is another walmart brand,  hisense.    keeps very cold. and tons of em used on craigslist for pennies on the dollar.   even has a freezer.
 
...and the walmart fridge uses an inverter to make the 120V ac it needs. In the end it used much more energy than the replacement 12 volt fridge freezer. The Indel-B marketed by Truck Fridge. Now the battery bank is happy while the solar keeps up the charging.
 
highdesertranger said:
I tried to be a cheap ******* with refrigeration.

started with ice chest,  ice cost way to much in some camps going to get ice meant driving all day to get ice and then there is no guarantee that the small store even has it that day.  in the trash

then tried a RV refer.  so now instead of having to make ice runs we were making propane runs..  only a slight improvement.  in the trash

next 12v coolers.  forget it wouldn't keep up with ambient temps at all and sucked a ton of juice. in the trash

next up dorm fridge.  nope barely kept up with ambient temps,  sometimes couldn't.  sucked a lot of power seemed like as much as the 12V coolers.  in the trash.

finally a 12v refrigerator,  dang should have done this to begin with.  all that money I wasted trying to avoid paying for a 12v refrigerator.  if I just would have bought one to begin with I would be dollars ahead.

highdesertranger

Hmm sounds like something very wrong with the dorm unit. Ive had mine going on 2 years. I have an ecoworthy charge controller with the mt50 remote monitor. So it does daily wattage sent to batteries. In 2 years i average about .55kw (550 watts) a day in warm weather. Give or take 50w. Ive seen as high as 750-800w in a day. A really hot day and not typical.

When the compressor kicks on it consistently jumps 4.25A. it kicks on in summer about 4-5x an hour for about 6 minutes at a time. Which fits the math for daily wattage just right. 

In say 35f low/55f high weather i see 125-175w put into battery a day.

So average somewhere in the 45a range a day in warm weather (80f-90f). Thats no different than what Ive seen from 12v units. 35a-45a with peaks as high as 55a-65a. If its more its marginally more. 

Plus so much depends on insulation, how much thermal mass in fridge, ventilation, etc.
 
brahmon said:
im a cheap ******* like you and ped.   got the same cheapass walmart 29s and a used $30 dorm fridge.   don't understand why people
pay 5-10 times more for lithium and a dometic.     in a few years, they'll be much much cheaper.

Haha glad im not alone. So is it working for you? I dont get AGM or like trojan. Lithium is whole diff animal OTOH. When prices come down i will jump. The not needing topped and the 90% discharge actually makes them worth having.
 
your right there was something wrong with all of them they didn't work. LOL to be fair I am hard on gear, many, many miles driven off road every year takes its toll on cheap stuff that is not designed for the bouncing , jarring, vibration, dust, heat, etc. maybe if I was a pavement princess the dorm fridge would have worked for me. who knows. what I do know is I can run 2 Engels off the same battery system for going on 10 years without any issues. highdesertranger
 
Hmm id like to see you get a $60-70 unit and do a test. Idk about rough roading but i highly doubt most 12v units use special brazing or something. In fact 120v fridges come with the compressors mounted on rubber. I dont know if all those 12v ones do but if not id say a dorm unit is likely more sturdy.

The reason theyre 1/10th the price is not that theyre made cheaper, they simply sell way more of them. Which kinda says something about 12v compressors. Youd think if they were so much better youd see them in residential fridges and air conditioners with huge adverts of efficiency.
 
hdr, i'd rather be able to afford 2 engels than just a cheap hisense. 

****, it works great.   i stick those $1 cheap fake ice packs in the freezer so i can depower at night to save the batteries.  the ice packs keep it cold till morning.
 

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