battery monitor recomendation
- Thread starter rastaman
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I use a midnite solar battery monitor
http://www.solar-electric.com/batteries-meters-accessories/metersmonitors/mnbcm.html
in my truck which has 1 renogy 100watt panel works good
Roy
http://www.solar-electric.com/batteries-meters-accessories/metersmonitors/mnbcm.html
in my truck which has 1 renogy 100watt panel works good
Roy
jimindenver
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I probably wont spell these right but there is the Trimitic and Victron monitors too.
Oops, you said inexpensive. Never mind. lol
I just take the resting voltage of my banks before sunrise every day. Not nearly as accurate but it has done me well for 3 years.
Oops, you said inexpensive. Never mind. lol
I just take the resting voltage of my banks before sunrise every day. Not nearly as accurate but it has done me well for 3 years.
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If it doesn't have a shunt, it's not going to be truly accurate. If it has a shunt, it probably won't be cheap and it won't be simple.
I agree totally with Jim, check it first thing in the morning before the sun hits it and that should be plenty accurate enough. Unless you have something drawing from it overnight, it will be rested and nearly totally accurate.
Bob
I agree totally with Jim, check it first thing in the morning before the sun hits it and that should be plenty accurate enough. Unless you have something drawing from it overnight, it will be rested and nearly totally accurate.
Bob
jimindenver
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Spaceman Spiff
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You didn't say what you want to monitor your batteries for.
To periodically check condition: $10 hydrometer (time consuming, messy, but if used right, will give you the best information on battery condition);
To monitor voltage: ~$10 volt meter (a lot of guys use these and do well, it takes some time to understand what it is telling you);
To monitor usage: ~$50 amp counter (can use one for charging and one for loads to get an idea if you are gaining or losing with solar);
To keep track of usage plus charging: ~$200 Trimetric (basically counts amps, in and out. Needs programming to be accurate);
Best for constantly monitoring battery condition: ~$350 Balmer SmartGage (uses complex algorithm to determine battery condition).
I have 200W solar & 2 GC-2 batteries with a Trimetric 2030 because I want to understand my usage.
-- Spiff
To periodically check condition: $10 hydrometer (time consuming, messy, but if used right, will give you the best information on battery condition);
To monitor voltage: ~$10 volt meter (a lot of guys use these and do well, it takes some time to understand what it is telling you);
To monitor usage: ~$50 amp counter (can use one for charging and one for loads to get an idea if you are gaining or losing with solar);
To keep track of usage plus charging: ~$200 Trimetric (basically counts amps, in and out. Needs programming to be accurate);
Best for constantly monitoring battery condition: ~$350 Balmer SmartGage (uses complex algorithm to determine battery condition).
I have 200W solar & 2 GC-2 batteries with a Trimetric 2030 because I want to understand my usage.
-- Spiff
AuricTech
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Keep in mind that the chart jimindenver posted applies to resting Voltage.
SternWake
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That voltage chart is also widely posted and taken as verbatim by far too many as applicable to each and every battery.
Many battery manufacturers will listed a rested open circuit voltage for their batteries and how it pertains to state of charge, and they will disagree with that chart by as much as 40%.
IE, I have a northstar AGM that has a fully charged resting open circuit voltage of 13.06, and I've had flooded deep cycle batteries that were 12.62 rested and fully charged.
So that chart is completely inaccurate on either of these 2 particular batteries, and how often are batteries truly rested enough in this lifestyle where a voltage reading is anywhere near accurate.
Never in my usage.
Ball park it if you want to, but figuring an exact percentage by voltage alone is foolhearty in the extreme without lots of previous data runs to make comparisons to with a specific battery.
These meters can be used to count amp hours, upto 64 amp hours before flipping back to zero, and only current flow in one direction, and I would not use them for loads in excess of 20 amps DC for very long unless one removes the 14 awg aluminum wire and replaces it with 8 awg copper to the circuit board as I have Done.
http://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Anal...=UTF8&qid=1420477376&sr=8-1&keywords=gt+power
14 awg aluminum wire:
8 awg tinned copper marine wire:
Here is it on my Meanwell RSP-500-15 power supply, which I use as a 40.94 amp battery charger.
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy
Before I soldered on the 8 awg, the unit got hot passing this much current. Now it barely gets warm.
These watt meters are not really accurate on loads under 0.5 amps at 12 volts, and will not register loads under 0.1amps, unfortunately, but at 0.8 to 40 amps it reads within 2.5% of my Shunted and clamp on AmMeters.
There are a few Ammeters out there which will also count amps flowing through their hall effect sensor, vs having a shunt, and can handle a 4 awg wire being inserted through the hall effect sensor. I have no links nor experience with these meters. I think E bay has them in the 40 to 50$ range and some posters on boating forums try and make use of them with varying success.
Many battery manufacturers will listed a rested open circuit voltage for their batteries and how it pertains to state of charge, and they will disagree with that chart by as much as 40%.
IE, I have a northstar AGM that has a fully charged resting open circuit voltage of 13.06, and I've had flooded deep cycle batteries that were 12.62 rested and fully charged.
So that chart is completely inaccurate on either of these 2 particular batteries, and how often are batteries truly rested enough in this lifestyle where a voltage reading is anywhere near accurate.
Never in my usage.
Ball park it if you want to, but figuring an exact percentage by voltage alone is foolhearty in the extreme without lots of previous data runs to make comparisons to with a specific battery.
These meters can be used to count amp hours, upto 64 amp hours before flipping back to zero, and only current flow in one direction, and I would not use them for loads in excess of 20 amps DC for very long unless one removes the 14 awg aluminum wire and replaces it with 8 awg copper to the circuit board as I have Done.
http://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Anal...=UTF8&qid=1420477376&sr=8-1&keywords=gt+power
14 awg aluminum wire:
8 awg tinned copper marine wire:
Here is it on my Meanwell RSP-500-15 power supply, which I use as a 40.94 amp battery charger.
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy
Before I soldered on the 8 awg, the unit got hot passing this much current. Now it barely gets warm.
These watt meters are not really accurate on loads under 0.5 amps at 12 volts, and will not register loads under 0.1amps, unfortunately, but at 0.8 to 40 amps it reads within 2.5% of my Shunted and clamp on AmMeters.
There are a few Ammeters out there which will also count amps flowing through their hall effect sensor, vs having a shunt, and can handle a 4 awg wire being inserted through the hall effect sensor. I have no links nor experience with these meters. I think E bay has them in the 40 to 50$ range and some posters on boating forums try and make use of them with varying success.
If you want it to be government quality you can just get a volt meter, you can get them for just a couple bucks on Amazon and wire directly the the batteries to avoid voltage drop. Otherwise you will want something with a shunt as it will tell you what's going int, coming out, net gains and losses and be much more accurate overall. It may also help extend the life of your batteries depending on how much you drain them.
