1993 Ford E-350 Club Wagon Transmission

[AbuelaLoca]

Howdy mes amigos! I have issues! A seal failed in my transmission and I had some good ol' boys fix it and now ain't nothin' right. I'm appealing to y'all because I need to know how to talk to a mechanic about what happened and what is now happening so I don't get screwed too badly. I've been told I need a rebuild and I just ain't buying it ($1900).

Here's what I know (and that ain't much):

1. 76,000 miles on the van.
2. 3-speed automatic overdrive transmission
3. 5.8L V8 engine


Those is facts... now for the "what I know" that is my experience... I drove it to a dr's appt 30 miles away. It was idling high and did not lower even after warmed up. I made it to Columbia just fine, no issues except the idling thing. After the dr's appt, it didn't want to move. It felt like a semi where you're only going 25 miles an hour in 6th gear. I drove it about 3 miles through city traffic when it finally acted like it wasn't gonna finish the trip so I pulled into a gas station and got help (this is also the only time the check engine light came on and it was only a minute or two before I pulled in and shut her down). It was towed to a neighbor's house on a flatbed trailer. They dropped the transmission, replaced the seal and put it back together. A few days later it was in my driveway and I was told I could drive it to work that night, but I wanted to hear it before the guy left, so he started it up and tried to put it into gear but it was very, very hard... I shook my head knowing that if this young whipper snapper was having a hard time moving the lever, I was not going to be able to do it at all! He got it into reverse and the idling was still high, he then got it into neutral, no change in idle... then he managed to get it into drive and there was a huge clunk (I thought the drivetrain must surely have fallen out at that time) and then a loud whirring from underneath the vehicle.

Said mechanic said it was the idle and he lowered it and it does shift much, much easier now. The idle is still high and doesn't lower after it warms up. And finally, it moves in 1st gear, 2nd gear and reverse but doesn't in drive. WHAT?!?!?!?!?

He called his buddies at a transmission shop and they decided, based on his description, that it needs a rebuild. I'm not convinced. I'm not sure I can answer many questions because I am not really mechanically talented, but if this were your home on wheels, what would you say to the guys at the shop to make sure they knew what they were talking about and not trying to gouge you for money??

I need this baby to purr because she's gonna get me to the RTR in January. I'm devastated right now and it's everything I have not to just give in and take this as a sign that I'm not meant to go, but I'm pretty hard-headed too! HELP me if you can!?!?

 

[UptownSport]

I don't think there's enough information to make any suggestion over the internet.

Your description of the semi thing could be that trans was slipping badly, or just not shifting.
The 'Not wanting to move' isn't a good phrase in a transmission thread ...
What seal did they replace, and why? They had to drop the transmission- Front pump seal?
So fluid had drained out?

And the selector lever- 'gearshift' literally wouldn't move before after their transmission R&R??
It's possible they bent the linkage, so 1 is really 2, and 2 is really drive ... Working in 'R' doesn't fit, though

And it sounds like you're indicating something catastrophic occurred with the big 'klunk', that's really not a good thing either-
To be master of the obvious

My suggestion is to have someone else look at it- Perhaps a friend or a little shop.
I'd guess if it wasn't bad before they R&R it, ...

 

[AbuelaLoca]

I don't think there's enough information to make any suggestion over the internet.

Yeah... My optimism dies hard! LOL

I like the idea of bent linkage... if the mechanic mentions something like that, I'll at least know they're hearing me and not just making a blanket decision to rebuild the transmission for $1900 when the actual work they do is not a total rebuild... know what I mean?

 

[highdesertranger]

it sounds like the linkage is not adjusted right or like uptown said the guy bent it when removing the trans. what area are you in? maybe someone here could take a peak at it. if not you need to find a honest trans shop in your area. highdesertranger

 

[user 37446]

Update?  Been almost 10 days...

 

[AbuelaLoca]

Nothin' new. Too many other curve balls right now.

 

[Kmmech]

That would be the infamous E4OD transmission. Ive been through many of them. Does the overdrive light on the gear shift blink when it acts up? When it does shift, does it feel as though it slams into gear? Revving higher than normal to get to the shift point? If it does these symptoms, then it needs rebuilt. Just make sure to get a good rebuild. Most transmission shops can rebuild it with an upgrade kit, which is the best option. A stock rebuild in most cases will fail. Ive known some to go for many miles with no issue. Ive also known more that fail premature. Just like anything else, you might get a good or a bad one. Ford knew of the problem and did finally fix it it 1997. Personally, I avoid any E4OD from late 89 thru 97. They can be built to be bullet proof if you spend the money. I had a 94 F250 Turbo Diesel that went thru 4 of them in the first 80k, all covered under warranty. All they did was throw in a new one every time. The 5th one, I had rebuilt with the upgrades,  and when I sold the truck with almost 400k, it was still going strong. That rebuild cost me about $3500, but was worth it.

 

[Charlotte's Web]

Nothin' new. Too many other curve balls right now.

Abuela, so sorry to learn of your trouble.  So frustrating, so disappointing.  I feel your pain!

This too shall pass.  Stay centered.  You will get thru this, I feel sure.  Keep the faith!

Buena suserte,
Charlotte

 

[user 37446]

news?

 

[Wildtrapper]

I just recently bought an '89 E350 class c really more of a class b+,(no over cab bunk), - runs but not very good. Reason I didn't start my own thread on this is, I have similar issues. First, idle is not right, way to low and hunts for proper speed, thinking either the map or the idle/air control valve. Second, shifting is kinda clunky, but that may be because idle is not right or it may actually be the transmission. Or, just needing a change of oil as it's been sitting for a few years. It's been on the cold side here in Ohio and I've only an open air shelter to keep it in. By open air, it's a carport with sides high enough to pull it in out of the weather, but no ends and no heat.

Yesterday I did pull the air cleaner off and bump a bit on the idle/air control valve with no effect - no improvement. I buttoned all back up and got a little depressed. Wife told me not to worry so over it, we know a very good small shop that could probably fix it right and she didn't care the cost.

The camper does have some other issues with like the generator and LP gas system, but will get to those in another thread if I have questions, WHEN I get around to those items. Getting it running right is first priority. It has less than 90K miles on it but has just not been keep up the last few years as the prior owner has been dealing with cancer and not able or willing to deal with the upkeep on a camper.

Hoping for some warmer weather, below freezing here today, but hoping does not make it happen.

 

[highdesertranger]

the idle air control valve is a very common issue with these. they get carbon fouled and don't work right or loose the seal internally. if you are uncomfortable working on stuff like this then taking it to a shop is your only alternative. sometimes you can pull them off and clean the inside with carb cleaner. if you do that be very careful with the gasket. I assume the check engine light is not on? highdesertranger

 

[Wildtrapper]

news?

the idle air control valve is a very common issue with these.  they get carbon fouled and don't work right or loose the seal internally.  if you are uncomfortable working on stuff like this then taking it to a shop is your only alternative.  sometimes you can pull them off and clean the inside with carb cleaner.  if you do that be very careful with the gasket.  I assume the check engine light is not on?  highdesertranger

Yes the check engine light is on, stays on, in fact.

I did buy a gasket online for it, planned on taking it off and cleaning it, however, it is tucked way back in a difficult to get at location and due to the cold (burrrr) weather, did not attempt to try to get it off. Either need a warmer day or take it to the shop. If my barn wasn't so full of stuff, like straw, mowers, tractors and other (junk), I could get it in there, but it'd still not be heated. I had planned on cleaning it and seeing if that fixed it, but will probably see if that local small shop can fit me in. I still have to put my tags on it and call the insurance co. Once I get that part corrected I should be able to do most of the little stuff myself.

 

[highdesertranger]

start the engine and let it warm up a tad. not hot but warm. highdesertranger

 

[wanderingfreeman]

the idle air control valve is a very common issue with these.  they get carbon fouled and don't work right or loose the seal internally.  if you are uncomfortable working on stuff like this then taking it to a shop is your only alternative.  sometimes you can pull them off and clean the inside with carb cleaner.  if you do that be very careful with the gasket.  I assume the check engine light is not on?  highdesertranger

The IAC rarely causes a high idle like that though. It is usually the opposite. Low idle and cutting off under heavy load, like parking in a tight spot.

 

[Wildtrapper]

Yes, I suspect the issue with mine is the idle air control valve, or at least most of the problem. It does start and will run if I can get it to warm up enough, stalls a lot, especially if I let off the gas, or on decelerate like coming to a stop. I did manage to get it home, (without a valid tag), from the prior owners home, back roads, but I had to keep one foot on the gas and the other on the brake at stop signs. Letting it warm up enough will let it stay running while just sitting, but it sits and hunts for a proper idle speed. Really wish I had a way to check the codes and also the voltage to the IAC valve. That local small shop has done work for me before, may call him and see what he says about when he could get it in. He has a well equipped heated shop.

 

[Headache]

There is one other option y'all aren't mentioning; the throttle position sensor and the ECM/PCM or "brain" as well. Almost all of the symptoms with my tranny( yes, an E4 OH DEAD as well, 92) were because of those 2 parts. Once replaced I left for the desert 2 weeks later.

The ONLY way you will know for sure is to take it to a competent shop. Both sensor and tranny can throw similar codes. If it IS the tranny I repeat what others have mentioned before; make sure a reputable shop does the work. These early generation ones had a bad habit of croaking around 50k miles. You don't want a repeat performance.