12v chest fridge location choices

[Almost There]

Before I get all gung ho on my kitchen layout in the van I have a question for y'all that use a compressor cooling fridge.

I want to build it into an insulated compartment on a slide out tray. I realize that it will need specific air spaces behind and beside it which is fine.

How much heat does one of these fridges produce?

I can put in a 'vent' opening into the interior of the van quite easily at the same location as the heat exhaust vent on the unit and can also add a computer fan if needed but having the fan cycle at the same time as the fridge might be problematic and will bite into my battery use if it has to run full time.

Suggestions and comments!!

 

[ccbreder]

definitely needs lots of air flow around fins, best if from outside the van.

 

[psytechguy]

I just set mine on the floor and secure it from sliding around with a bungie cord. When I get where I'm going, I set it where it's convenient.

Sometimes I even set it in the shower.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I can put in a 'vent' opening into the interior of the van quite easily at the same location as the heat exhaust vent on the unit and can also add a computer fan if needed but having the fan cycle at the same time as the fridge might be problematic and will bite into my battery use if it has to run full time.

Suggestions and comments!!

Should be possible to wire a simple Bosch SPST relay to turn the fan on whenever the fridge is running. Of course, tapping into the fridges circuitry to do that will probably void the warranty . . .

Regards
John

 

[akrvbob]

Soon I'm going to do a post on a friends van and one part will be the box he built for his compressor fridge. Some photos: in the bottom one you see he left the vent open. The hot air blows out of it. It's critical it not be inhibited in any way and there be plenty of room for it to move away.

 

[Almost There]

Soon I'm going to do a post on a friends van and one part will be the box he built for his compressor fridge. Some photos: in the bottom one you see he left the vent open. The hot air blows out of it. It's critical it not be inhibited in any way and there be plenty of room for it to move away.

I'll wait for your article.

I may have to leave way larger openings than I first envisioned but that's okay, it's just a design change....lol.

I was envisioning using the circular vent covers that RV's use for heat outlets in walls to cover the openings but I'd rather leave large openings than try to run a fan in sync with the fridge.

 

[akrvbob]

They put out quite a bit of heat and there must be a lot of open space to carry the heat away. If it can't escape, and the heat builds up around the compressor, you'll shorten its life.

The bigger problem is that when the lid opens on the long axis the vent is on the back side so that whole side needs to have good ventilation and the front has to be open so you can get into it.

On my Whytner, the lid hinges on the short axis (like a chest freezer for your home). That way the heat blow out the front of the fridge and that has to open anyway so you can get into it. I lose very little space maintaining ventilation.

I think the Engles open that way too. If you can afford them, they are a good choice
Bob

 

[Almost There]

They put out quite a bit of heat and there must be a lot of open space to carry the heat away. If it can't escape, and the heat builds up around the compressor, you'll shorten its life.

The bigger problem is that when the lid opens on the long axis the vent is on the back side so that whole side needs to have good ventilation and the front has to be open so you can get into it.

On my Whytner, the lid hinges on the short axis (like a chest freezer for your home). That way the heat blow out the front of the fridge and that has to open anyway so you can get into it. I lose very little space maintaining ventilation.

I think the Engles open that way too. If you can afford them, they are a good choice
Bob

Yes, part of the decision making on manufacturer will be where the venting needs to be in relation to how I want it to fit in the van. I may very well end up eventually with two different brands, one for freezer and one for fridge use so that they fit properly into the plan.

I figure they are long term investments so a price difference to get what I want is not a major barrier.

Both will go on pull out trays so that the space above them is not wasted space. It's just a matter of how much of a built in cabinet I can go with as opposed to how much open air space they need and which direction it needs to face. It's all logistics!!

 

[akrvbob]

This is a picture of my Whytner in it's cubbyhole. Because it vents out the front, I din't have to leave much space around it. On the right side is an air-intake, but it needs very little room, the exhaust is what's critical and it's up front.

You can't see it, but there is 12.5 inches between the top of the fridge and the shelf above it which is plenty to get into it. I use a stick to hold it open when I get in since it doesn't open 100%. So I would gain very little by putting it on a slide. In fact I might end up losing because the walkway in front of the the fridge wouldn't be wide enough to pull it out and get in to it both.

But, like you said, every conversion is different so that might not be true for you.

Bob

 

[highdesertranger]

almost there. I too want to put mine on a slide. what are you thinking of for the slide? highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

almost there. I too want to put mine on a slide. what are you thinking of for the slide? highdesertranger

I have access to Lee Valley here in Canada that has a complete range of slide units in all lengths and strengths. A similar woodworking supplier shop in the states should carry similar products

Here's some that work up to 100 lbs but they have ones that will take 400 lbs

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=52491&cat=3,43614,43616

Once I have the fridge/freezer units selected I can figure out maximum likely weight load.

The slides I haven't found yet are the ones I want for bottom and top mount on a pantry unit.

 

[highdesertranger]

let us know when you find some. I have been looking and the only one I have found are real pricey. like 250 bucks plus. highdesertranger

 

[christine]

Yeah, slides are expensive. I ended up just putting four wheels on a piece of wood, and then sitting the fridge on top of that.

 

[Almost There]

let us know when you find some. I have been looking and the only one I have found are real pricey. like 250 bucks plus. highdesertranger

You had me scared there for a minute, I hadn't hunted any further than the H/D website. I went looking and look what I found.


https://sawdustgirl.com/2013/02/11/how-to-build-and-install-a-pull-out-pantry-style-storage-cabinet/

Apparently she had the same problem so she used regular drawer slides on the side of the pantry. I saw multiple woodworking sites using the same method so she's not unique in the approach.

Here's another set at the $100.00 mark. They're neat in that they have 1 top slide and 2 on the bottom for more stability. They'd be a good idea if the pantry is fairly deep from edge to edge (not back to front).

And here's a set that's really heavy duty, I don't think I'm going to be needing them...I don't want to carry THAT much food...lol.

http://www.rockler.com/accuride-heavy-duty-full-extension-slides-series-9301-select-length

The other option is to just install multiple pull out shelves at different spacings so that each drawer pulls out individually as opposed to a pantry.

I couldn't find weight ratings on the wood slides that go above and below a pantry...worth further investigation since you could build them yourself. There's a non-silicone slide compound that can be used on them to make the 'drawer' slide more easily.

 

[highdesertranger]

almostthere while that link might work for something light duty. my problem is I need something heavy duty, when you do a lot of off road driving and have something as heavy as a refer the slide needs to be pretty stout. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

almostthere while that link might work for something light duty.  my problem is I need something heavy duty,  when you do a lot of off road driving and have something as heavy as a refer the slide needs to be pretty stout.  highdesertranger

How much weight rating are you thinking of. The fridge units I've been looking at, even the big ones' weigh in at 50 to 60 lbs, add food and you're still not exceeding 130 lb weight limit.

If it's really that heavy there were ones that were meant for mechanics tool chests that were rated for 400 lbs...hey maybe you can pick up and recycle a tool chest set!!

 

[highdesertranger]

I have thought of the tool box ones but they are not long enough. that's the biggest problem is the length I need mine to pull the long ways. so the length plus the weight rating = lots of dollars. highdesertranger

 

[SternWake]

I'm not retyping everything that did not appear when I clicked submit and would not reappear with the back button. All that came up was HDR's quote and 6 paragraphs i typed did not follow.

Sorry.

 

[ccbreder]

I have a set of drawer slides from Lowes. Rated at 75 pounds each. They are ball bearing side mounts. I am mounting three on the bottom of my platform. They are rated as to load hanging, extended on the drawer full open at 24 inches.
Having them here in my shop I don't see a problem. About $20 pair.

 

[GrantRobertson]

How much weight rating are you thinking of. The fridge units I've been looking at, even the big ones' weigh in at 50 to 60 lbs, add food and you're still not exceeding 130 lb weight limit.

When you hit a good-sized bump, that 130 pounds can effectively exert 1000 pounds of force.