Best Fridge for the Money?

cortttt · May 9, 2016

Here's my situation. I'd be very happy to go with an Engel or an ARB but I've already dropped a ton of money (for me) into the van so I'm perusing Craigslist and Ebay to see what else is out there used and am open to other brands that cost less.

I may end up going with an Engel or ARB - just want to scope out the field more. If you know how much power your unit is drawing that would be helpful as well.

I'd also like opinions on what fridge sizes work for everyone. I've been traveling with this huge 110 qt cooler that does get filled up - but which obviously uses a lot of ice. It's kind of hard to tell how much size I would need without all that ice. I do like to stop up and fill up at Costco's when I'm on the road.

WheelEstate USA · May 9, 2016

We used ice for a long time. A few months ago good fortune smiled and we were given a 45qt Whynter. It was not only a huge monster, it was sorta on its last leg. It gave us an idea of what we needed and would be happy with.
A few months of pinching a few pennies and saving, we got a Grape Solar 33qt fridge thru Home Depot.
Like the unit and the size. Enough space that we can boondock for a couple weeks if we shop wisely. Since we are on the move more this time of year, more space goes for beer and sodas, leaving over half for foods. We didn't want one that took more room than our ice chest either

Depends on your needs and room you are willing to dedicate to a unit.

SternWake · May 9, 2016

1.8 cubic feet/~51 liters in an upright, front loader is more than enough for just myself.

WheelEstate USA · May 9, 2016

I like that Stern Wake's has a small freezer section. Looks like a dorm fridge but is a 12V compressor.

cortttt · May 9, 2016

SternWake said:
1.8 cubic feet/~51 liters in an upright, front loader is more than enough for just myself.

Appreciate it.

These Indel B Travel Isotherm or whatever they are called fridges are a good price at Equipt... $570 for a 50L

http://www.equipt1.com/item/travel-box-50-liter-fridge-freezer

akrvbob · May 10, 2016

I bought a 50 quart Truckfridge for 3 very specific reasons:

1) It uses the Danfoss compressor, which I wanted for its reputation.
2) There are two places in the country where you can take it for service, one some where on the east coast, I don;t know where. But the other is outside Tuscon, AZ and I spend almost 6 months of the year a few hours drive to Tuscon. In event of a problem, I won't have to ship it.
3) The outside dimensions are all the same, they just get taller as they get bigger. That let it fit in a small area, it just goes up higher--i had plenty of vertical space.

The Danfoss draws about 3 amps per hour. I added extra insulation and it it keeps its cold exceptionally well. Even on 90 degree days it only comes on 3-4 hours a day so far.
Bob

I didn/t know it, but my Truckfridge is a re-labeled Indel B--I'd never heard of them before. It's clearly labeled as an Indel B on the fridge and on the manual.
Bob

Mobilesport · May 10, 2016

I have Dometic cf35
Danfoss compressr
12 volt fridge
Cost me $530 and woking really well for me , I hardwired it because the ciggy connection wasn't very good

SternWake · May 10, 2016

Seems like you really get more for your money with a chest style 12v compressor fridge. They all seem to have AC and DC, and some of them will automatically adjust the compressor speed. The faster the speed the faster it can cool down the box, and warm items placed inside of it.

The Danfoss BD35f compressor can be run anywhere from 2000 to 3500 rpm. And an amp draw from ~2.2 to ~6 amps

My DC only Vitrifrigo c51is came with a 270 ohm resistor to run the compressor at a fixed 2500 rpm. With extra insulation and it always being on, I removed this resistor to run it at a fixed 2000 rpm and at the end of its ~5 minute cycle, amp draw is about 2.2, but that depends on voltage. 33 watts basically, at the end of the 5 minutes, Initially it will be 41 to 43 watts and tapers downward the longer the compressor runs that cycle.

The key to efficiency is to make sure the vents for the cooling unit are not obstructed, and that there is little restriction to airflow, so that the fan can efficiently remove the heat from the condenser, that was pulled from the box.

I upgraded my 120MM fan and moved it so it pushes cool filtered air that was pulled from below, pushes it once through the condenser, across the compressor and controller and out the van body, or into adjacent cabinet, or both. The fan cannot recycle any air it itself has heated, and this will shorten the time the compressor runs, when it runs.

Keeping the cold plate from having too thick an ice build up also increases efficiency. The Ice build up inhibits the ability of the refrigerant to suck the heat from inside the box, to some degree.

I need to do a defrost pretty badly, been a few months since the last one, but it is easy to just ignore when one has more power than they require, and the fridge is always just cold.

I've also got a 0.03amp 6.3cfm 40MM fan running 24/7 inside my fridge too, took 12v from the light for it. Keeps internal temps much more even and cools items placed within faster.

Thank you solar, thank you Danfoss.

SternWake · May 10, 2016

Dust build up can be a significant issue with efficiency.

I don't know how easy it is to access the fan on a chest style fridge, but this is about 6 to 8 months of build up in my Van

Obviously a detriment to heat extraction, and this is why I added an air filter to the air intake. The blades still get some build up though. Much less than without and it accumulates slower and affects airflow much less than in the photo.

Heat extraction is also very important for compressor and compressor controller life. The controller has a heatsink on its back side. Airflow across the cooling unit is your friend.

Also, the Danfoss compressor controller can handle powering 0.5 amps of fans, fans that fire up only when the compressor turns on.

The fan in the pic above consumes only 0.05 amps. The controller could power 10 of these fans. The fan which came with my VF c51is is 0.12 amps and rated at about 70CFM.

Tinkerers/ macguyverists could pretty easily add another fan to help extract heat. Two of the Noctua fans would likely draw less than the provided fan for less energy consumed to power them, and extract considerably more heat in a push pull orientation, decreasing compressor run times noticeably, especially in hot weather or when one drops a warm 12 pack into the fridge.

http://www.ra.danfoss.com/Technical...f_electronic_unit_ac-dc_04-2009_ei100g402.pdf

cortttt · May 10, 2016

SternWake said:
Dust build up can be a significant issue with efficiency.

I don't know how easy it is to access the fan on a chest style fridge, but this is about 6 to 8 months of build up in my Van

Obviously a detriment to heat extraction, and this is why I added an air filter to the air intake. The blades still get some build up though. Much less than without and it accumulates slower and affects airflow much less than in the photo.

Heat extraction is also very important for compressor and compressor controller life. The controller has a heatsink on its back side. Airflow across the cooling unit is your friend.

Also, the Danfoss compressor controller can handle powering 0.5 amps of fans, fans that fire up only when the compressor turns on.

The fan in the pic above consumes only 0.05 amps. The controller could power 10 of these fans. The fan which came with my VF c51is is 0.12 amps and rated at about 70CFM.

Tinkerers/ macguyverists could pretty easily add another fan to help extract heat. Two of the Noctua fans would likely draw less than the provided fan for less energy consumed to power them, and extract considerably more heat in a push pull orientation, decreasing compressor run times noticeably, especially in hot weather or when one drops a warm 12 pack into the fridge.

http://www.ra.danfoss.com/Technical...f_electronic_unit_ac-dc_04-2009_ei100g402.pdf

That is a lot of dustbuildup - thanks for the tip.

Mobilesport · May 16, 2016

SternWake said:
Seems like you really get more for your money with a chest style 12v compressor fridge. They all seem to have AC and DC, and some of them will automatically adjust the compressor speed. The faster the speed the faster it can cool down the box, and warm items placed inside of it.

The Danfoss BD35f compressor can be run anywhere from 2000 to 3500 rpm. And an amp draw from ~2.2 to ~6 amps

My DC only Vitrifrigo c51is came with a 270 ohm resistor to run the compressor at a fixed 2500 rpm. With extra insulation and it always being on, I removed this resistor to run it at a fixed 2000 rpm and at the end of its ~5 minute cycle, amp draw is about 2.2, but that depends on voltage. 33 watts basically, at the end of the 5 minutes, Initially it will be 41 to 43 watts and tapers downward the longer the compressor runs that cycle.

The key to efficiency is to make sure the vents for the cooling unit are not obstructed, and that there is little restriction to airflow, so that the fan can efficiently remove the heat from the condenser, that was pulled from the box.

I upgraded my 120MM fan and moved it so it pushes cool filtered air that was pulled from below, pushes it once through the condenser, across the compressor and controller and out the van body, or into adjacent cabinet, or both. The fan cannot recycle any air it itself has heated, and this will shorten the time the compressor runs, when it runs.

Keeping the cold plate from having too thick an ice build up also increases efficiency. The Ice build up inhibits the ability of the refrigerant to suck the heat from inside the box, to some degree.

I need to do a defrost pretty badly, been a few months since the last one, but it is easy to just ignore when one has more power than they require, and the fridge is always just cold.

I've also got a 0.03amp 6.3cfm 40MM fan running 24/7 inside my fridge too, took 12v from the light for it. Keeps internal temps much more even and cools items placed within faster.

Thank you solar, thank you Danfoss.

12volt from the light , good thinking.
Do you still have the light operational? Or did you remove the bulb?

SternWake · May 16, 2016

The LEDs are easy to open and tap the wires for 12v.

Light still fully functional..

this is the lowest amperage 40Mm fan i could find at the time:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunon-KDE1204PKV3-MS-AR-GN-40x20mm-3pin-Low-speed-5200RPM/dp/B007WLQAKE

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...5200_RPM_40KDE1204PKV3-VGA.html?tl=g36c15s560

not sure if any other fans have come out since october 2012 when I purchased it that have a lesser amp draw.

Huge cfm numbers are not needed. low amp draw should equal less heat introduced into interior which then must be removed

bcbullet · May 16, 2016

I got this one for cheap when Amazon Canada had one of its apparent price glitches. https://www.amazon.ca/Grape-Solar-G...F8&qid=1463409195&sr=8-2&keywords=grape+solar I paid $412 which in Canada is an insane deal. It is right around 82 quarts and has absolutely blown me away with its performance. It draws right around 4 amps on average and runs about 20% of the time at 80 F ambient temperature; the insulation is THICK. The only other fridge I have to compare it to is a Dometic that I upsized from, but as long as it lasts, I would give the nod to the Grape Solar. As I had the room, I built it into the over-cab step up in my self built cube van and have a hinged bench/low countertop that folds down above.

cortttt · May 16, 2016

bcbullet said:
I got this one for cheap when Amazon Canada had one of its apparent price glitches. https://www.amazon.ca/Grape-Solar-G...F8&qid=1463409195&sr=8-2&keywords=grape+solar I paid $412 which in Canada is an insane deal. It is right around 82 quarts and has absolutely blown me away with its performance. It draws right around 4 amps on average and runs about 20% of the time at 80 F ambient temperature; the insulation is THICK. The only other fridge I have to compare it to is a Dometic that I upsized from, but as long as it lasts, I would give the nod to the Grape Solar. As I had the room, I built it into the over-cab step up in my self built cube van and have a hinged bench/low countertop that folds down above.

That's about $540 US dollars for such a huge fridge.....(!)

In the States Walmart, Home Depot and Amazon sell them a good prices as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r...iewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00HVXE154#R1RNWLXH9BMRNU

bcbullet · May 16, 2016

cortttt said:
That's about $540 US dollars for such a huge fridge.....(!)

In the States Walmart, Home Depot and Amazon sell them a good prices as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-r...iewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00HVXE154#R1RNWLXH9BMRNU

Wrong way around...that equates to $320.00 US for the fridge I bought.

One thing to add...the one in your link is not the same as mine. A front opener, while more convenient, lets the cold "fall out" when the door is opened.

SternWake · May 16, 2016

When a lid is opened, or a door opened, a large portion of the cold air within is displaced in either a top loader or a front loader. The chest style are more efficient because they have no door seals on the very bottom, and the chest style lids can use their weight to seal better and keep the heat out.

The 'cold air spilling out' only really applies if one is such a person who leaves the fridge door open for a minute or two while they prepare for a meal, a habit that stick and brickers who have no concept of electrical consumption seem to be quite fond of.

The choice of a front loader or chest style is pretty important to the ergonomics of one's build out. Do you wat to have to unload everything from atop the chest style cooler every time it needs to be opened, or train yourself to not bother putting anything on top of such a obvious table?

I very much prefer a front loader, and with extra insulation and a very well ventilated condenser and compressor, its efficiency is remarkable.

Do make sure the vents on chest loaders are not obstructed at all, and that the cooling unit on front loaders has adequate ventilation, and is not just sitting in hot air it itself has created. The heat from inside the box has to be vented ad transferred from the condenser to the atmosphere as efficiently as possible.

Far too many fridge failures are caused by ignorance of this. The compresssor has to work twice as hard for twice as long when the air around the condenser is 30 degrees higher than ambient temps, wearing out faster and consuming much more electricity to perform the same task of keeping the interior at a sub40f.

towhee · May 17, 2016

I got a whynter 65 quart dual zone for about $600 from Home Depot last fall. It has served me well. It's more space than I need. If I had started with a 30 to 40 quart fridge it would have been fine.

Having said that I do like having the two compartments that I control separately. I was able to keep the small compartment at 20 degrees some of the time (in daylight with good sun).

The fridge draws 4.5 amps when running. I don't know how much it ran so I can't tell you total power usage.

I did add extra insulation.

Luciano151 · May 18, 2016

I believe in buying the best possible in order to maintain the integrity of the unit as long as possible. I don't think going cheap is a good idea with certain appliances. Maxie uses an Engle 40 liter refrigerator that draws I believe 1.5 amps per hour. I can run it on either 12 volt or 110. If I use shore power, the refrigerator automatically reverts to shore power regardless what is plugged in. I also like the fact that I can run it as a 'fridge or a freezer. It just depends on the setting. It's heavy and built like a tank. I've been super happy with it so far. It's pricey, close to $900.00, but you get what you pay for.

arctic cat · May 25, 2016

I'm going to chime in on this. I personally own a 35QT ARB I used to own a 37QT Engel. Both very capable and rugged. I'm an overlander/ and I ate frozen ice cream at 130F. They are a miser and sometimes you can not tell they are even running. They take beating and keep on ticking.

cortttt · May 26, 2016

SternWake said:
When a lid is opened, or a door opened, a large portion of the cold air within is displaced in either a top loader or a front loader. The chest style are more efficient because they have no door seals on the very bottom, and the chest style lids can use their weight to seal better and keep the heat out.

The 'cold air spilling out' only really applies if one is such a person who leaves the fridge door open for a minute or two while they prepare for a meal, a habit that stick and brickers who have no concept of electrical consumption seem to be quite fond of.

The choice of a front loader or chest style is pretty important to the ergonomics of one's build out. Do you wat to have to unload everything from atop the chest style cooler every time it needs to be opened, or train yourself to not bother putting anything on top of such a obvious table?

I very much prefer a front loader, and with extra insulation and a very well ventilated condenser and compressor, its efficiency is remarkable.

Do make sure the vents on chest loaders are not obstructed at all, and that the cooling unit on front loaders has adequate ventilation, and is not just sitting in hot air it itself has created. The heat from inside the box has to be vented ad transferred from the condenser to the atmosphere as efficiently as possible.

Far too many fridge failures are caused by ignorance of this. The compresssor has to work twice as hard for twice as long when the air around the condenser is 30 degrees higher than ambient temps, wearing out faster and consuming much more electricity to perform the same task of keeping the interior at a sub40f.

Good point about the ergonomics - thanks

Best Fridge for the Money?

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