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I wasn't intending on doing the freon part, I know that's a tricky procedure and I wouldn't trust myself far enough to do that part...I was just going to replace the physical components. Also, the van doesn't even have 200k miles on it, it's currently at 120k and according to Carfax I'm the 2nd...

So I had my van in the shop a week or two ago for an oil change and to get the AC checked out. Well, according to them there are leaks -everywhere- and many of the seals are shot as well as the compressor. They quoted 2 grand for repairs. Hell I can get all the parts on Rockauto for less than...

So I have done a rough sketchup of the mounting box for the batteries, inverter, controller etc that will be installed where the passenger seat used to be. The inverter isn't the right one because that is basically the only semi-similar inverter they had in sketchup. I am debating whether to...

I will definitely look into that. However, the reason I am using the power port is because I don't have my solar system set up yet (still collecting components...almost there though and debating waiting until I get to Arizona and get a rigid panel from San Tan).

The wire isn't getting hot, it's just the plug itself.

Not sure whether this is normal or not...but when I have my solar generator plugged in to a power port in my van the plug gets pretty hot. Is this normal or do I need to work on something? For reference it's a Bluetti EB70S 716wh.

Just a heads up, I just read on visible's site that the party pay system is going bye bye. As of October 18th, those currently on party pay will have their price locked (they didn't say for how long) so it will still be $25/month and they have two new plans. One is $30 and the other is $45...

It's not "damaging the van" that concerns me regarding putting holes in it... it's possibly not getting them sealed up well enough to prevent water getting in. Also, if I can get a 250 watt panel for fifty bucks, I will probably go that route instead.

The plan is to sort of make them semi-rigid with metal edging all around (think something similar to a metal picture frame that holds the picture within the edges of the frame itself) and something like corrugated fiberboard underneath for ventilation, then attach the whole thing to the roof...

So I have a 2005 Kia Sedona that I purchased back in December. Only real issue I have with it is that it does not have a roof rack. The reason this is an issue is that I want something to install my flexible solar panels to (though I'm considering using the flexibles as portables and getting...

What I might do is just get a portable to use with the solar generator and keep that on it's own system. Maybe add one panel to the main setup for a total of 300 watts on that system.

Kind of...though it's more like not being able to get out of my own way and life throwing me curve balls.

Unfortunately, don't have a roof rack on the minivan. I will try to remember to take some pics of it in the next few days.

Honestly? I'm nervous about drilling holes in my roof still and these can be installed without drilling. I know I will still need to drill a couple holes to pass the cables through (which still makes me nervous) but it's only 2. I figure by the time I need to replace these I will have gotten...

OOHHH!!! I see now *smacks forehead* Took me a couple of looks to see what you were talking about. Will definitely connect it up that way.

More changes made to the layout attempting to incorporate suggestions. Also added wire sizes. As usual any constructive suggestions would be appreciated. Edit: Typo on diagram, MBRF should be MRBF?

1) thanks for the correction, will move it. I set it at 40a since the controller is a 30a. 2) will be changing the negatives to a shunt. Parallel is how I intend to connect the batteries (which have not been purchased yet), I thought I represented that but apparently not.

I plan to have wire sizes appropriate for the need, still researching that (will likely follow suggestions by Will Prowse). Will alter the shunt setup to the negative. The dc-dc isn't actually going to be spliced into the cable from the controller, it will be connected to the battery. As for...

Made some changes to the layout. As always, constructive input is appreciated. Eventually I plan to add a 100-200 watt portable panel for a total of 300-400 watts but that will be at least a couple of months away. I will be adding a battery monitor and likely an MT-50 to the controller even...

This is why I am asking before I build it. I would rather get it right the first time than end up blowing components because I didn't ask. :)