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The sparking is minimal, I'm just trying to find a good way to avoid it as much as possible. Thanks for the reply Canine.

Hey guys, been on the road for the last month and everything has worked out great-ish. Question: when planning on working on the system, it's difficult for me to remove the hot wires from the batt terminal without causing sparks. Should I remove the fuses to the wires prior to removing the...

If I add a bus, do I size my wire that runs from the bus to the + bat terminal to handle the combined amperage of the 3 accessory wires on the bus (60A + 60A + 150A)? Or can I throw my leftover 6AWG on it? For what it's worth, all hot wires are fused close to the bat.

Thanks for the feedback, that's what I'll do.

So the ring connectors don't need to be separated by nuts? Just stack em / fasten them down to the base?

I have 3 6AWG wires running to my aux battery + post: Inverter (60A), Fuse Block (60A), and keyline battery isolator (150A). My battery has screw-in terminal posts (basically an M8 bolt). Is it ok to just connect all 3 wires to the post with ring terminals?  I attached a picture depicting what...

What kind of fuses do these blocks take? Got a link?

I'll pick up one of those dual MRBF battery terminal fuse blocks, seems easier and a more system efficient choice than the 2 inline fuses I have for the inverter & CC. Anyone have a link to the fuses they accept? Since I have multiple leads coming off the neg battery post is there something...

How does that work exactly? I assume it is mounted onto my positive battery post and the fuses inside the cases are sized to whatever I need and then I run my individual cables to them?

I'm ditching the switches, I didn't even think about pulling a fuse if I want to work on some part of the circuit. I want to keep this simple and not introduce potential faults by adding non-essential items. I replaced the 6AWG with 12AWG based on my loads + buffer + close proximity to the...

Just so I get this right... It goes Battery -- Switch -- 20A Fuse -- Fuse Block Any recommendations on a switch for my setup?

Noted on the ciggie ports!  By switch at the bank I assume you mean between the fuse block and battery? If so, that I can add.

On second thought, based on the Blue Seas wire chart, if the fuse block is within a few feet from the battery 14AWG with a 20A fuse (giving myself a buffer) should suffice. Is this a good way to look at it?

I wanted a switch between the CC and the battery in case I need to cut power to the CC. If this isn't necessary I'm happy to scrap it and save a few bucks. Ciggy plugs to charge phone and whatever other 12V appliances I might have. I agree, for the loads I've posted I might be better off with...

Okay, I haven't looked into bus bars. The only spot I'm worried about in my diagram is the 6AWG coming off the fuse block. Can 6AWG connect to a #10 stud directly?

Ah that's clever, otherwise you might have to step down or step up your wire in increments (i.e. 6AWG - 8AWG, 8AWG - 10AWG).

Attached is my updated wiring diagram. I'm not sure if everyone will agree with it, but I'm hoping this will suffice in not burning down my van.

To touch on some points that were made: 1. All pos wires will be fused as close to the battery as possible (except for the Renogy in-line fuse between the panels/CC. This will act as my switch to disconnect the two if need be and connects at a specific point in the circuit as defined by...

Hi there! I'm currently in the process of converting a 2000 Ford E-350 with my partner with plans of touring the states + neighboring countries beginning this summer! We have a few months left to complete the conversion and I feel as if I'm in good hands with the level of knowledge sprinkled...