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Now I'm confused even more. For my shore power, they (RV Repair place) told me to get 12/2 from Home Depot for the couple of outlets in the van.  I was asking about the 12V but now you throw that at me??

Is that a preference or a specific reason? I had the Rv guy tell me not to use tin type.

Wow regis101, are you talking for your 12V? The RV guy suggested 12 AWG for a 110v 15 and 20amp wiring, I figured that was over kill for 12v. I will keep it all separate as well. Thanks for the battery grounding tip. I think I missed that in my diagram!

Thanks, it's all open now, so might as well. One other issue, I bought 45 ft of 14 gauge at Ace Hardware for $32! I thought wow, this is gonna cost me alot. Then I go on Amazon and find 7 100' rolls for like $50, but it says is NOT AWG. Does that matter? I read a few comments and a few said...

As I'm starting to put in wiring, simple question on 12v grounds. Does the neg, or ground as I understand, on each light-plug-acc, have to run back to the distribution panel, or can they be grounded right into the body metal-as in the roof beams?

It's the latch, that pops open. The doors are fine and those are aligned good. I looked at 98 and they appear to be the same (Hopeful), so I'm gonna try that.

So the latch was adjusted as far as it could go. So thought I'd order a new one, discontinued from GM, no aftermarket I find. So now what? My door panel is another part GM no longer makes. What do you guys recommend when that comes up?

I've seen a lot of videos on insulation and paneling but none show the detail work. What's the best way to deal with wires like in pic, and the finish edges around the doors, contours, or even the supports like in the pic?  I was thinking putting these wires in the cavity, but looks like I'd...

Couple of more questions. RV guy says to get adaptor to go through van to connect extension cord outside, then box to breaker. He showed me a box in a catalog 30-amp with 3-15 amp breakers and and it had a outlet on the box itself. He said get this at homedepot, my depot had nothing like it, any...

Thanks guys, tomorrow is a full day to work on van, so I'll check the latches. I thought of the adjustment factor, but it didn't appear that they were moveable. But I'll test that, then the water test.

Yes, Rt door opens first, then Lt. They line up pretty good and doesn't appear to have had any damage, pretty solid when lifted up and down. The Lt, when latched, still has about 1/4" that I can push the top in, feels secure, but I can push it in. The Rt one, the same, but more so. I'm not...

I'm just starting on my 97 Savana and the rear left door keeps popping open. Not all the way, but like to the first latch.  I hope that's not common! The right door also doesn't seem to seal well either. Any advice?

Almost There, you are so right! I've never been much of a planner. It's really about "what if". Like John61CT just said, I'm planning on have shore power 90% of the time, BUT I'd like to be able to least run a fan, few lights, charge the phone, for a night if I have to. I have a laptop for...

Ok, even if I go that way, wouldn't I want to have the batteries for the times I'm not connected? And then is it just using the alternator for recharge? I see there is inverter/chargers and converter/charges, is either better?

Yeah, a friend is a general contractor and he said the same thing about battery tools. That's true, I guess a good cord and a power strip maybe the way to go.

I'm just starting to modify my 1997 Savana to a weekend warrior. It's purpose, drive to a project where I may use a skill saw, sanders, table saw at most for work. Night comes, fridge, lights, lcd tv, coffee maker, may be in use. These projects are at peoples homes, so I'm thinking I'll be able...

Hello to all! Just purchased a 1997 GMC Savana in great shape and am overwhelmed by the options of how to set this up! The internet can just lead you everywhere I must admit, I won't be living in it, but want to go to project sites for maybe a 3 day weekend with the wife. Hoping to get some...