wiring from Alternator

[Scott3569]

Ok, so first I think I miss spoke in one of my other posts.. anyway

I am trying to think ahead a little here.. What is the Minimum size wire/cable I need to go from the Alternator to a solenoid with a distance of approximately 7Ft.. I am guessing but it don't believe it would be more than 7Ft.. 

also my alternator is rated for 160amps, from what I have read, I need a solenoid to match my alternator.. 

is there a particular brand of solenoid better then others? or do they all do pretty much the same thing.
(maybe I don't need a solenoid, if I am wiring from my ALT) LOL 

any suggestions for this will be helpful

 

[LIFE]

I have not seen or read any details about this alternator/solenoid issue your speaking of. I.E.:

-- what is the application?
-- what is the load (current draw)?

The above items don't even scratch the surface for you to get an informative\intelligent response. More to think about, if your alternator is truly rated at 160-amps, consider these items:

-- the alternator (brand new), may output the 160-amps after a normal, cold start.
-- once the engine is running, start subtracting from that 160-amps, for each active circuit, e.g. wipers, driving lights, electric fans, etc. Also consider in-climate conditions with every [OEM] item turned on. In this case, in-climate weather, everything running, and the vehicle is being actively driven at 50-mph, your lucky if you have any of that 160-amps,available/unused as a reserve. We haven't begun talking about accessories; e.g. a mini or dormitory sized refrigerator.

Ever see your lights dim at night when you come to a complete stop? <-- just an example. Other factors come into play like age of the alternator/-, the battery capacity, battery-age and heat.

To close this reply, allow the additional suggestion -- https://www.americanpowerinc.com/

Your youtube video stated you were only going to keep the van for a couple of years. In that case only query that company for a direction/knowledge; they are not a joke.

I am still interested in knowing your application and approximate load. Please excuse me if I missed some details in your video; my connection is metered. We are all listening ...

 

[Scott3569]

My bad, Battery Isolator, Not solenoid..

 

[Scott3569]

the purpose for the application is to charge house batteries... now that I corrected the term I used from the OP.. I am sure the conversation will be different

 

[highdesertranger]

You will never ever see 160 amps from your alternator. However what the max is I have no idea.

Also the 7 feet needs to be doubled. With DC you need to count both directions.

You say isolator do you have a link? In this area a lot depends on your battery, What type of battery? If it's a lead acid I found a good old solenoid works just fine. I like Cole Herse here is a 200 amp example,

https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-...701768&sprefix=cole+hersee+con,aps,211&sr=8-5

I hope you are not counting on your alternator as your only charge source.

Highdesertranger

 

[user 423]

Also the 7 feet needs to be doubled.  With DC you need to count both directions.

Does that mean you have to run 2 wires?  Can't you just use chassis ground for the return?

 

[highdesertranger]

You can use the chassis ground but when doing the calculation for wire gauge you still count both ways, weather it's the chassis or an actual wire. Highdesertranger

 

[Scott3569]

Ok so there seems to be a little confusion which is probably my fault..

I want to charge my house batteries(which I have not decided 100% on...
(I have already learned from another post, you can not charge lithium batteries from your starter battery or your alternator)

So my batteries will certainly be AGM just have not narrowed down a size, that said it i will not be larger than a 200AH battery..

there are two options from what I am seeing to do this correctly.

1. https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-2009...rds=battery+isolator&qid=1619706880&sr=8-58-5

Or

2.https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Argo-Diode-Battery-Isolator/dp/B01BF5C2YA/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsqmEBhDiARIsANV8H3Z0Snyi_aQ4mKD5HeRm4iUxNkhrYAH7JpzYcVCmSljDhnYGtrzzMkIaAi47EALw_wcB&hvadid=384287575128&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005031&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7229919325593282122&hvtargid=kwd-343102690964&hydadcr=18887_9696483&keywords=battery+isolator&qid=1619706880&sr=8-10


There are several different makes and models for each of these..

I have approximately 7 feet from either my battery or my alternator to where my house battery will be store behind the drivers seat..

So, Would I need to run #2 battery cable, or could I get away with say a #4 or #6 cable..
I understand the ground needs to be of the same size no matter where I run my ground to from my house battery...

ALT-----#2 battery cable------Isolator----house battery
(Imagine a fuse needs to be in this line some place also.)

Or

Battery------#2 cable----Isolator----House battery
(again I am sure there needs to be a fuse)

 

[highdesertranger]

Ok first off you can use a lithium battery but if you do you need to use a battery to battery charger and not a isolator/solenoid.

Isolator have a voltage drop between the 2 systems this is caused by the diode in the system. Solenoids are a simple mechanical electric connection. A quality solenoid will last for many, many years. If I had a dollar for every isolator I replaced I would be a rich man.

Highdesertranger

 

[XERTYX]

I know practically nothing about charging from the alternator but, I assume someone has already had the conversation about how many hours of driving and not just idling you have to do every single day to make it a viable charging solution?

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Alternators are made to charge lead acid batteries. Lead acids sip up the charge and take a long time to charge. Lithium are made to charge very fast. With no way to regulate how much charge goes into the battery, the lithium will suck in all the charge from the alternator and then some. Put it simply, the lithium will fry the alternator. To charge lithium you just need a battery to battery charger instead of an isolator device. Pretty much the same thing but they do the job differently.

 

[Scott3569]

I am not trying to use lithium, for my house batteries, I am using AGM..  What exactly is the purpose of Battery Isolators?? are they not for the use of a second battery? I think this post took a wrong turn someplace.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Unless you're using lithium, you want to install an isolator. Isolators receive power from the alternator and distributes that power separately to the starter batteries and the deep cycles. Mixing starter batteries and deep cycle batteries is a big no no, you could end up with dead starter batteries. Install an isolator. If you drain your deep cycle house batteries, your starter battery will remain charged and ready to start engine, which results in recharging the house batteries.

 

[Scott3569]

I know you need an Isolator, I think I found what I need to do the job I am looking

https://www.renogy.com/dcc30s-12v-30a-dual-input-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/

 

[Scott3569]

My only other question about this subject would be is there a good alternative to this.

https://www.renogy.com/dcc30s-12v-30a-du...with-mppt/

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Well that is pretty cool. That unit charges the starter batteries off the solar too. My biggest gripe about all in one units is that if, or really when, it fails you lose everything. You could be dead in the water without any way to charge your batteries. The price is right though. And it's already lithium ready if one day you decide sell one of your livers and upgrade them batteries.

Alternatives? Not sure about all in one units. But figure if you bought MPPT charge controller and battery to battery charger separately it's going to cost more. But if you stick with AGM's, you just need an isolator, which would be a lot cheaper.

 

[LIFE]

I am not trying to use lithium, for my house batteries, I am using AGM..  What exactly is the purpose of Battery Isolators?? are they not for the use of a second battery? I think this post took a wrong turn someplace.

The responses you are getting are due to:
1) you did not supply enough detailed data; I pointed that out in my first reply.
2) not all of the people (responders), are paying close enough attention to the content, or lack thereof.

When I say people (responders) are not paying attention, two notable items would be where you stated (video):
a) the vehicles' acquisition cost was approx $2400.00
d) and that, said vehicle would only be used\kept --for a couple (two) years.

Those two statements alone may very-well be limiting the amount of financial and material investment. To bring this reply to a close, think about the future. Don't keep doing the same thing over and over again, by replacing some of the newly upgraded parts, after you replace the vehicle; mounting space may be a concern.

Again, I will ask:
-- what is you application, meaning not only that, you want to maintain a house battery, additionally what is the load (current draw) <|> put another way, what are the combined amps of your circuit?

I provided a link to APS, however, if you're in a rush, without knowing/providing the data I pointed out (above), this post is going to be very long [wasting space].

...

 

[Scott3569]

Excuse me for not being as detailed as I should be.. I have good knowledge about many things, and I have many skills
Electrical, amps, volts, is all Chinese to me.

I will have some Led lights, Probably with a 12 volt plug
I will need the ability to charge ryobi batteries
fans, I am going to be using 4 fans each at 1AH a piece, connected to the house battery and a switch with a fuse (might do a small fuse box)
I will have one of the smaller 12 v compressor Refrigerators.. 

The vehicle it self is in great condition.. I have done a lot of work on it myself. and quite honestly, it has a lot of life left.. But that really has nothing to do with the information I am trying to acquire, so yeah your correct.. and I mentioned in a reply, that I  was at fault due to poor information a couple of times.. 

I am just trying to put a good plan together before I get  much further into my build, so that I can plan the wiring.. 


Thank you and the rest that have replied, I appreciate the feedback

 

[XERTYX]

I think something is being lost in translation. Its hard to read tone thru a keyboard.

Broceph I am pulling for you for 2 very important reasons. You're asking questions about something that isnt solar charging. And also we have the same vehicle.

Maybe as a peace offering tell peeps what you're planning to power.

A refrigerator roughly 23Ah per day.

LED lighting 100 watt hours per day.

You get the idea.

In my opinion as far as alternator charging from what I have read highdesertranger is both one of the most informed on the topic and one of the harshest critics of alternator charging.

Maybe you dont have the numbers. That's ok too.

What are you planning to power?

A fridge?

Cell phone charging?

Microwave?

Etc.

Budget?

Battery chemistry? AGM. Check

 

[highdesertranger]

Yes I always say to include alternator charging but don't rely on it as your sole charging source. Highdesertranger