Voyager/Caravan/Town & Country Suspension

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mohmo

Member
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
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Location
St. Pete, FL
Anyone here with a 1996-2002 van of these models made any lift or suspension upgrades to better accommodate payload, or increase ground clearance? I’d prefer bolt on upgrades to custom modifications in case I ever break down in the boonies.

I’ve have a 98 Grand Voyager. Still being in the city, stop and go (with the weight of an ongoing build inside) is a consideration, as are some less unkept roads and road debris. I also like backcountry camping, so ground clearance is a consideration for me.
My ongoing build isn’t heavy by any stretch, but the van could use better shock absorption. Even empty, it’s not the smoothest ride as soon as the roads get bumpy.
I got it for a good price, with low miles, so I’ve been replacing some parts that’ve never been replaced and I’d rather tend to the suspension sooner, rather than later.

I’d appreciate any recommendations, based on your usage.
 
first off you can not upgrade the payload by doing suspension work on any vehicle. it doesn't work that way, there are many other things that go into the payload rating.

second I ALWAYS recommend not to lift ANY independent suspension vehicle. you will throw the steering geometry and alignment out of wack and have nothing but issues with it. believe me in the long run you will thank me.

besides isn't that a uni-body? all the more reason not to mess with it.

highdesertranger
 
I got 93 grand caravan everything is original on it 140,000 miles havé had since 2014 been up thé Alaska highway down the Stewart Casiar , around Alaska up the Dempster across North America. Freedom camp 99 percent of the time no problems. It is low to the ground so you have to be careful where you go, it is not a four wheel drive. With front wheel drive it is fairly good in mud. It is completely built out with a heavy pop top. It drives like car very good on the road, economical, very comfortable, very stealth parked on a city street. With the roof up and the front seats swivelled back it is very livable, it has a fridge stove and vented heater run from a solar panel or propane from a large under car tank. Sleeps four it is not light. It is almost ideal, it’s shortfall is storage.
 
highdesertranger said:
first off you can not upgrade the payload by doing suspension work on any vehicle.  it doesn't work that way,  there are many other things that go into the payload rating.

second I ALWAYS recommend not to lift ANY independent suspension vehicle.  you will throw the steering geometry and alignment out of wack and have nothing but issues with it.  believe me in the long run you will thank me.

besides isn't that a uni-body?  all the more reason not to mess with it.

highdesertranger

It is unibody.
I don't have a desire to increase the payload, and never said so. The effects of the payload in stop and go traffic is my consideration. I'm asking about suspension for clearance and handling cargo, and the roads I drive on, and where I want to go.

Thanks for the misdirected lecture.
 
flying kurbmaster said:
I got 93 grand caravan everything is original on it 140,000 miles havé had since 2014 been up thé Alaska highway down the Stewart Casiar , around Alaska up the Dempster across North America. Freedom camp 99 percent of the time no problems. It is low to the ground so you have to be careful where you go, it is not a four wheel drive. With front wheel drive it is fairly good in mud. It is completely built out with a heavy pop top. It drives like car very good on the road, economical, very comfortable, very stealth parked on a city street. With the roof up and the front seats swivelled back it is very livable, it has a fridge stove and vented heater run from a solar panel or propane from a large under car tank. Sleeps four it is not light. It is almost ideal, it’s shortfall is storage.

Nice to know OEM is working out for you  :thumbsup:
 
"Anyone here with a 1996-2002 van of these models made any lift or suspension upgrades to better accommodate payload, or increase ground clearance?"

so sorry to me it seemed like you wanted up the payload. the part about lifting it is still relevant, right?

highdesertranger
 
yep, lifting is relevant.
i was here to see if anyone had successfully done it, as i've seen a few rally/adventure minivans on their original frames in my area before. not one all pandemic, or i'd ask someone in a parking lot.

i'd just like my van to better absorb shocks and crappy roads, so my payload isn't knocked around (or when i hafta abruptly brake after being cut off in city traffic or by a 4 second light).
Florida's roads aren't all grand, and i'm not ready/convinced i want to do flooring to screw stuff down into.
 
mohmo said:
Florida's roads aren't all grand, and i'm not ready/convinced i want to do flooring to screw stuff down into.

If you are thinking that you can go around -anywhere not just Florida- with your stuff NOT fasted to the floor, walls and everywhere possible, think again.
 
It doesn’t take a bad road to make things slide around. Hit the brakes quickly and your equipment and furnishings will meet you in the front seat. Been there done that.
 
The only thing I have done on 3 different Caravans (years 1999, 2004 and 2017) was install air bags. It has nothing to do with increasing capacity, but allows you to adjust the vehicle back to level depending on the load. They do raise the rear on an empty unit by about 2-1/2 inches at max pressure.

Check out the Caravans that are converted for wheelchair access. The rear is 3" - 4" higher than normal.......not sure how it is raised.......but the drivers say it handles about the same as normal.

I would have continued using my 2017 converted Caravan (totally self contained) but at my age standing up on rainy days etc. is a must so back in a Roadtrek.

Good luck with your unit.
 
Look into adjustable coil over shocks that can be stiffened for off road. As far as a lift, I don't know of one available, but you could go up a few tire sizes to get a bit more ground clearance. Stock tire size is 205/75/15 which is 26" tall, get 235/75/15 tires at 29" tall in an all season/all terrain tire on the same rims. These tires are 3" taller, so your ride height would be 1.5" taller, and with much more aggressive tread.

Also consider a front bumper brush guard, and DIY skid plates underneath to protect the oil pan, and transmission. The air bag suggestion would get the rear end up a bit as well.
 
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