Turn off the frig/freezer at night?

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

VegasVanGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2015
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
So I am in my third night of full time RV'ing. I have more experience on sailboats where it's pretty common to turn off the refrigerator (ice box style) to conserve battery power at night. With an RV it is running on propane. Does anyone shut off their refrigerator/freezer to conserve propane at night when the doors are less likely to be opened? 

Thanks
 
That depends on the ambient temperature and the amount of insulation the fridge has, as to whether it's a good idea or not.

I don't use a propane fridge but my Whynter fridge unit has a thermostat on it. Turned off in the evening when the ambient temps in the van are dropping to the mid 40's by daylight, the fridge stays below 45 which is acceptable. If the temperature in the van stays in the 50's then the inside of the fridge becomes too warm to safely keep some of my food products. Repeatedly allowing the temps to rise in  to the 50's inside the fridge would hasten spoilage and perhaps endanger me with food poisoning.

If all you're keeping in the fridge is beer and soda then it's not a problem. If you're keeping meat and stuff like mayo, then maybe the cost savings aren't worth it.
 
Propane refrigerators/freezers use such a small amount of fuel that turning them off at night is probably not worth the effort. Ours is on 24/7 except when we're refilling the propane tank.
 
There's an old saying in the food service business. "Life begins at forty". Forty degrees Fahrenheit. Above that temperature, you will have increased growth of all kinds of microbes and risk getting sick. Being penny wise and food poisoning foolish can certainly ruin your day and cost you a lot more in medical bills than the bit of power you'll save.

Just sayin'
Ted
 
I would not turn off my compressor fridge if I were trying to save the battery from going below 50%.

There are situations where I could see it, like if the fridge were not holding easy to spoil food, the single battery was at risk of not being able to start the vehicle, and I had a 5 hour drive at first light where I could just crank the SOB upto freezing levels and power it from alternator.

But only then.

But letting it warm from 30 to 41f, then cooling it back down to 30, takes more energy than keeping it at 30f. If restarted in the morning, after a bunch of door openings, and rising ambient temps, it has to work harder to remove the heat and perform more work, using more overall energy.

With an absorption fridge on propane, I would never consider turning it off to save propane. Those take too darn long to cool items placed within. but I'd never run an absorption fridge unless propane were suddenly free and delivered to me, and hooked up for free too.
 
Front door refridgerator are nice, very "home like" but not really the best choice for low power cold air retention. When you open the door, the cold air spills out onto the floor replaced by warm room air.

A chest style refigerator is like a bowl of cold air, you take the top off and look inside, largely the cold air stays in the box (cold air is heavier than warm air)

But I agree being Serve-Safe Manager certified, be very aware of your disease prone temperature sensitive foods.

Read about what the early colonist in New England ate as they settled this new land....... it ain't pretty, wonder why they died in such high numbers?

Dave
 
The act of opening a door, or a lid, will displace a good amount of air inside the cool box, whether a top lid or front door. The actual air inside has little thermal mass.

If the lid/door opening orientation alone had a huge effect on actual electrical consumption and performance, then chest style fridges would employ a sliding door which would displace NO air when opened and the subsequent marketing would have everyone believing that anything but a sliding door will cause locusts to converge, and red rain fall from the sky and chicken little doing his thing with an amplified bullhorn, in the quest for maximum profit which rules the world.

The reason chest sytle fridges are more efficient than front loaders is not the cold air spilling out with the door opened, it is the fact that it relies on no seal on the coldest part of the unit, the bottom.

The actual thermal mass of the air that spills out of a front loader is so minimal, that I bet it would be hard to measure the difference in electrical consumption, all other factors being equal, from a front loader to a top loader, as long as the user is not the logic immune/ clueless type that leaves the door open while preparing food. Somebody watching a voltmeter has no hope of discerning the difference, unless they really really want to believe, and such people can be convinced of anything, and are usually the loudest.

That said there can be improvments had in improving the door seals, and larger improvements could be attained with a front loader as opposed to a top loader that has gravational assist to compress the seals.
 
So youre trying to tell me that removing the lid of a chest freezer /refrigerator allows cold air to escape into the warm room?

Exactly how does that hapoen?

Warm air rises, cold heavy air sinks.
There is no way on gods green earth warm air is descending and displacing the cold air of a chest refrigerator.........it ain't happening....... Sorry.

Dave
 
You think you can open a hinged lid without replacing a portion of the air under the lid?
That would be a fun world where physics does not apply.


Only those that leave a front loader open for long enought for the skin of the objects within to start warming up, will be able to tell a difference in electrical consumption compared to the person that left the lid opened on a chest style.

My arguement is the air inside has so little thermal mass compared to the cold objects within, that attributing the more efficeint nature of a chest style over a front loader to the chest style not allowing 'cold air to spill out' when opened, is unwise.

The measureable and noticable gains in the chest design are simply that there are no door seals at the bottom of a chest style, and likely more insulation.
The door under my fridge right now is 3.5 degrees colder than the door at the top of my front loading fridge.

Gravity also helps seal the lid on chest style fridges, and the lid is also not likely to warp Like the door can if forced closed on objects within, and the the seals up top are much less likely to get dirty and not seal as well, or worse, get torn when cleaning them.

I am not going to argue than a bucket upright will hold water and that one knocked over will spill.

It ain't happening....... sorry
 
The most magical thing about my fridge is that when the kids open the door long enough, food materializes!
 
Yes! ....... Same principle as the bucket of water.

An upright insulated box holds cold air, tip the box on it's side, it spills out cold air just like water does. Nothing to argue about.

At home with unlimited power, it's no big deal you lose some cold air when the door is opened. In a RV with only a finite 12v battery, it is a HUGE deal that you lost that cold air.

Dave
 
Isn't this the same principle as a supermarket. The upright freezers have doors on them and the open chests down the center of the isles do not.
 
djkeev said:
So youre trying to tell me that removing the lid of a chest freezer /refrigerator allows cold air to escape into the warm room?

Exactly how does that hapoen?

Warm air rises, cold heavy air sinks.
There is no way on gods green earth warm air is descending and displacing the cold air of a chest refrigerator.........it ain't happening....... Sorry.

Dave

Yes, warm air raises, and cold air sinks. But I have to inform you that your wrong as warm air will naturally seek out and replace cold air no matter how you look at it, so it is happening and going to happen no matter what!
 
Objective testing has shown that,

everything else being equal,

a chest-style box is only a very little more energy efficient than front-opening

The frequency and duration of the opening events was more significant.

None of these factors are even on the same scale as insulation R-value, and ventilation around the condenser/electronics.
 
simple physics tells us that the temps are going to want to equalize. the hot and cold are going to exchange until both are the same temp. highdesertranger
 
the only reason I turned of my chest style was to stop the fan from running at night it was cold in the morning. no loss
 
Top