synthetic fluids

[Canine]

Anybody use synthetic oil or trans fluid?Do you think it is better?

 

[rvwandering]

We've been using synthetic oil for years. The engine runs cooler and we get slightly better gas mileage - about 1 more mile per gallon.

 

[SternWake]

Conventional motor oils have gotten so good they have closed the gap with synthetics.


That said I'll spend 10$ more per oil change for synthetic, and I'll also buy a high end oil filter, as it gives me the warm and fuzzies.

I know the Synthetic oil can last for a year in the mileage I drive.

ATF+4 is the only acceptable fluid in my Transmission.  it is synthetic.

Synthetic in my Differential too.

 

[Canine]

I am thinking about going to synthetic in trans fluid.I'll have to see what the cost would be.Thanks for the responses.

 

[ccbreder]

The mechanic serviced my trans, told me after he used synthetic oil. Seems ok after 5000 miles.

 

[billybob200138]

Synthetic is overkill. It's all I use in My vehicle. HoboJoe

 

[MikeRuth]

Well just to offer up for the count, my 2007 Ford E-150 has been on Mobile 1 synthetic since it's birth.
My 2006 Chevy HHR also has been on the same.
Oil changes include filter every time and typically at 5K or less miles. No leaks, and as best I can tell it's been a good choice.

I'll continue on with it.

 

[Canine]

Well,the verdict is in.Consumer Reports recommends synthetic fluids for towing and that's good enough for me.Now,if we can get them to do some tests on solar charge controllers.Ha.

 

[karl]

Did searches on a few auto sites and determined the same- less heat buildup and degradation of viscosity with synthetics.
Also learned that not all synthetics are created equal, that some are in fact blends.

Went on to research synthetic gear oils, and read a few reasons to avoid using them, especially in limited slip differentials. Apparently synthetics molecules have a different/smaller/slipperier shape that glazes the clutches in the rear ends. There was some discussion of seal degradation, which may have been addressed in newer vehicles and lubricants.

I am considering changing to synthetic motor oil now, more research may be in order to choose a brand. Will likely continue with dinasaur juice in the trannie since I rarely see the temp above 135 F even towing, and also continue with the 90 weight in the rear.

 

[Raven+Squid]

Yep I believe they are very stable to heat, I thinks it's the little bits of fuel vapor diluting the oil overtime that breaks the stuff down.

I use it, it maybe voodoo but if I'm overdue on my oil change by a thousand miles it should give a little bit of a buffer.

 

[TMG51]

I'm a bit surprised to see everyone in full support of synthetic. Not that I have a differing opinion - it's just that every time I've seen this topic come up there is invariably a divide between conventional and synthetic with each believing one is better or the other causes problems.

I use cheap dino oil and medium quality filter every 3,000 miles.

 

[SternWake]

If one is interested in motor oil, its base oils and additive packs, then motor oil is not just motor oil.

But if one is just a 3000 miler, note that even most conventional oils are good for 5K miles, oil is just oil.

Oils have different additive packages. Anti friction, extreme pressure, friction modifiers, detergents and dispersants can all vary in ratio and efficacy.

SN are the most recent oils, but in the 30 weights the ZDDP is reduced to protect the catconverter. But 40 weight oils are not affected by this requirement.

So somebody with a modern engine requiring an SN oil should be fine with an Sn rated oil, but somebody with an older higher mileage flat tappit cam and lifters might benefit from an oil with higher levels of ZDDP, and an SL or SM rated oil, whose ZDDP levels are too high for an SN rated oil, could protect/lubricate an older engine better.

So oil is oil, only of one does not really care. If one does care, then different formulations my different providers can have significantly different add packs and might perform much better in a certain engine than other oils.

But since most engines will outlast the vehicles they are put into, oil can just be oil. But older campervans might be loved enough to have an engine rebuilt or replaced, along with everything else that wears out with age and mileage, and then a higher end oil could. might, or might not, extend engine life, MPG.

If one really cares to see how their oil is holding up in their engine for a specific interval/timespan, get an oil analysis.

I had one done a few years back.
but its cost, including a TBN(total base number) is more than an oil change with synthetic and a high$$ filter

 

[user 2252]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

pointing you in the self-research direction.

 

[Canine]

Vonbrown,good to see you posting again.Hope you are well and happy.I usually go the cheapest route,but I do trust Consumer Reports.I'll switch to synthetic next change.

 

[USExplorer]

My SUV has been on SuperTech full synthetic 5W-30 since 2004. I change it about every 6000 miles.

 

[debit.servus]

Conventional engine oil is cheaper than synthetic, and so I use it as I do not know if synthetic oil would make a significant improvement. I don't mind paying more for synthetic for a noticeable improvement in performance.

For a 2001 FORD Econoline E350 with 7.3L V8 diesel engine, which is better; Conventional or Synthetic oil?