rokguy's motorhome truck conversion

rokguy · Feb 19, 2013

Hi everyone,  I start this topic to show you the conversion of the motorhome truck I use out on the road. This one was the original, built before I built the smaller rock truck. This is the first steps of the build. After scouring some local truck wreckers I eventually settled on this good running ex Dairy delivery truck which had around 180 000km on the clock, someone took the old box body off before cashing it in on a bigger truck. The cab was in great shape but was missing a couple of door trims and the blinker switch. It was a bare cab chassis but lying in the same yard was a 12ft box body (pantec) with side windows installed. I struck a deal with the wreckers to fit the body, missing trim, blinker, 6 new tyres and register the truck for me (a great deal for $6 000AU) Here the cab chassis and seperated box when first seen. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/mazda_cab_chassis2-377x295.jpg" rel="lightbox"> a proflie of the truck to suit an aluminium 12ft body  <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/profile_of_mazda_cab_chassis-428x291.jpg" rel="lightbox">  This is the 12ft aluminium box body with barn doors I spotted hidden and cab chassis rails <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/bare_pantec-243x332.jpg" rel="lightbox">         <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/cab_from_rear_mazda-245x335.jpg" rel="lightbox"> The truck specs 1993 Mazda T3500. Engine 3.5ltr Diesel 10 speed transmission, split 5 speed gearbox exhaust brakes are fitted through a 3in exhaust system. (allows engine braking without using foot brakes, very useful for coming down mountain ranges)  120ltr (40gal) fuel tank wheels are 16in X 7.00 with dual rear wheels giving good road holding. proper truck boxed chassis rails full length with leaf spring suspension. wheelbase (on this one) 10ft 6in Tilt 3 seater cab for ease of mechanical / maintainance. CB, CD, radio etc tilt steering wheel, lumbar support seats. factory tinted windows. The original box body specs 12ft aluminium skinned, steel framed 7ft 8in wide X 6ft 6in high with Australia hardwood floor. Body just bolts to the chassis via large U shaped clamps witha nylon packing between. I already had drawn up several layouts to suit different size boxes, the next job was to give the truck a good steam clean and scrub down the box wooden floor.  Pictured is the layout I settled on. The main criteria for the layout was it must store 2 bicycles inside and be economically areodynamic. There is a elevated double bed at the front with my bikes and "tools of the trade" storage under the front portion which I can access from outside and inside. Clothes rails under the rear portion. Along the LH is the toilet/shower compartment. toilet is a waterless cartridge type with Zeolite added and the shower is a solar bag one, behind this on the left is the comfy 6ft 6 lounge (storage under.) Flat screen 12volt TV DVD is built in above. Along the RH is the removal galley unit built light out of alloy sheet and epoxied ply, 3 quick release bolts and water inlet allow it to come out so I can transport big 8 X 4ft sheets of ply etc. There's 100ltr (25gal) water tank under the floor here. More storage is built in along with a 12v frig. behind this is club chair with fold down table with a i70 portable canon printer built in. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/drawing_layout-401x295.jpg" rel="lightbox"> I got to work on the truck after driving it back to my base 500miles down the eastcoast. Pictured below is the truck on arrival after the drive and clean up. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/mazda_cab_tidied-406x298.jpg" rel="lightbox">   <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/driverside_mazda_t3500-378x276.jpg" rel="lightbox"> more to follow. Cheers Geoff

HoboBerg · Feb 21, 2013

Thanks for the great pics! Keep us up to date with your progress

bk2valve · Feb 21, 2013

Sorry Geoff, my drool is getting all over the keyboard or I would post more to your threads....you are indeed an old school craftsman.....<img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> Bri

rokguy · Feb 22, 2013

Thanks guys, Heres the next installment. Having the truck registered and useable I could g and buy the necessary alloy sheet stock for the outside cladding. The original aluminum sides were ribbed in reasonable condition but I always like the smooth sides so I ordered (9 of) 8 X 4ft X 1mm thickness product called cargosheet. The product comes fully powercoated in the colour you want (mines ultraviolet white) as this stuff is brilliant for heat reflection in summer and never dulls or cracks (chalks) (unlike Winnebago filon fibreglass) I waited till mid summer to fit the sheets to the outside of the existing rib sheet as it does expand in the heat a bit (it can be bought prestretched like on buses) The material is sikaflexed and pop rivetted on as this does allow a little movement, I rolled the lower edge around plastic water pipe hung from the outer edge, this giving me some storage within the pipe and a bit more aerodynamics as I wanted the lower polished alloy skirt to run flush with the outside of the wheels. Makes it look pretty too. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/reskinned_boby-418x297.jpg" rel="lightbox"> While I set about cladding the sides I built a aerodynamic nose cone and side burns (as called in the trucking industry)The nose cone was built using leftover polysytrene left over on a building site I was working at (they pour house cement slabs on them) I glued it to the front of the box then proceeded to shape it with a rasp and handsaw till it was right.It has to sit so you can tilt the cab up for clearance + the engine air intakes sit up here aswell. After shaping I bent a sheet of cargosheet around it, gradually just working it from the bttom pop rivetted edge until it meet the roof line. The side burns are form up the same allowing the back of the cab to nestle in with a in clearance. This allows the cab to flex around on the chassis as this truck is cab air suspended. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/detail_of_streamlining-395x290.jpg" rel="lightbox"> <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/rolled_bottom_cargosheet-391x275.jpg" rel="lightbox"> <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/polished_skirts_fitted-413x277.jpg" rel="lightbox"> The existing small siding windows were perfectly place for my layout so I just refitted them back where they were.The side back windows I would fit later as I hadn't decided what size I would be getting secondhand.The worst bit about this curving job is trying to get two alloy sheets to marry up at a corner junction.  There's alot of trial and error. I then moved on to the inside. As I decided this motorhome wasn't going to be dictated by an umbilical cord (mains power lead)  I first planned out my 12v electrical needs and where my cabling would route, siting of the TV, radio, lights computer, printer, frig acc outlets and so. I used insulation board, aircell sheet, again leftovers from a building site I was working on. (In fact it worth asking around building sites cause a lot of builder don't want to pay to get rid of leftover stuff)  After the insulation was installed I ran just the down wires from ceiling to floor, then making sure they poked out the top and bttom of the walls I clad the inside walls with Polyply a marine plywood epoxy coated on the back and polyerthane coated finish (again gloss white) Look like modern kitchen door finish. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/interior_lining-238x289.jpg" rel="lightbox">  <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/fitting_bulkheads-252x293.jpg" rel="lightbox"> Electrically.....My truck is a little different in that the wiring runs the full lenght on the inside within a wiring box channel behind a snap on removal varnished wooden pelmet at ceiling height. The main wiring loom is 8G cable and is made to be added to at anytime, also makes it easy to check any problems (none yet)  It runs along both sides of the ceiling, wall junct from seperate solar/ battery systems. The leftside system from two 64w unisloar panels in through the back down to the twin 150amh fork batteries under the lounge and up to the fused control switch panel to powers TV stereo, Leftbank strip LED's computer and printer. The rightside system feeds from a two 100w poly panels under the roof down to a forward mounted 200amh fork battery solenoid connected to the alternator then run up to another fused control panel to power two strip LED's and the frig. These two solar battery systems run seperately from each other. After the inside walls were complete it was time to start the fit out. I started from the front knowing the bed and under storage area had to be right. One the bed had to give you enough sitting room to read a have a cuppa in the morning without getting up and two the storage area below had to be able to house two of my precious Cannondale bicycles so they were not on show outside. the bicycle storage needed to allow the the bikes to go in without having to remove or lower the seats but be able to secure them down with a looking front fork quick release. the storage also had to have room for my handtools and a inflatable sailing dinghy. it all fits without having to remove something to get something else out. Phew...!! This storage area is acessable from outside and in just. The inside under bed area has clothes hanging space of two rails and shelves at the end. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/fitting_overhead_bed-414x305.jpg" rel="lightbox">   <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/partial_interior_fitout-247x299.jpg" rel="lightbox"> bed frame out and curved WC wall <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/toilet_installation-234x300.jpg" rel="lightbox">   <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/alloy_interior_finish-469x336.jpg" rel="lightbox"> After getting the bed framing right and siting wher the toilet was going it was time to fit in the bulkheads in light epoxied marine ply this allowed the ply to curve around uprights which I set out for the outline of the various bulkhead requirements. Above this is the galley space before the removable galley is put in place. The lower walls are then lined in polished lightweight alloy sheet (blue plastic protective covering) <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/unfinshed_interior-399x285.jpg" rel="lightbox"> Above showing lounge base foreground toilet shower comp, with bed behind, storage sect under. NOTE wooden flooring is the original timber boards in the box body. These were Aust. hardwood which I sanded down and varnished. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/TV_and_lounge_base-275x342.jpg" rel="lightbox">  Installed flat screen TV, CD DVD, switch panel and solar control module I left this rear bulkhead clear varnished as I liked the woodgrain in it. Next installment coming soon.  Please excuse any grammar and spelling mistakes Geoff

rokguy · Feb 24, 2013

Next step................. It was now time to move onto the rear door opening. The original box body was fitted with steel framed alloy barn doors which were heavy and had no means of locking them from inside when I was onboard at night. My first idea was to install a roller door but I didn't like that the ones I looked at took away to much headroom across the opening. My old hippy van I had prevously had a lift up tailgate in which I had removed the gas rams from when I sold it for scrap. The rams are quite powerful and have a strong holding capability in high winds etc but are designed to fit so when almost down they pull in. After looking around for suitable framing material which wasn't available I decide to go back down to ask the builder on the jobsite if he had any formply (used in the formwork for pouring concrete). What he gave me was a waterproof marine glued 3/4 in thick 8ft X 4ft sheets. This stuff though heavy to handle by oneself does not bend under stress and works out lighter by the time I would have had a frame and cladding. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/working_on_lower_gate-414x305.jpg" rel="lightbox"> above trialing the tailgates while the barn doors are still fitted below finished smooth top gate <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/working_on_rear_doors-418x308.jpg" rel="lightbox"> The holes were easy to drill for the gas ram brackets and I also cut out some lightening panels to fill with insulation, a full width truck type SS hingle holds it in postion, once the upper door was setup I was able to sheet over it with the cargosheet alloy giving a nice smooth back outer door. keyed locking mechanism are fitted as well as a inner garage door sliding bolt mechanism inside. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/mock_up_of_tailgates-237x323.jpg" rel="lightbox"> The lower gate was built along the same lines but does not need gas rams and is simply SS rigging wire and terminals to hold it level when in the open position. The outer cladding of this is 304 polished Stainless steel. (tough stuff) Below to finish off the back of the truck I cut some thick marine stock alloy sheet for the tailights skirt this is curved to the out body profile which I could them fit the new LED turn stop light combination panels theres two per side. This gives it some bling at night. I left the rear under run step and rubber dock bumpers in case of back up accidents. .<IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/general_arrangement_rear-404x311.jpg" rel="lightbox"> finished lower Stainless steel gate With the outer tailgates finished I could complete the inner wall doorway, this is built again out of epoxied marine grade ply. The walls are there to create a bulkhead 1. something to mount the TV, electronics on   2, to have something to lie against when reading on the lounge. 3. something I could mount a roll away fly screen door on. 4. something to allow a bit of privacy when inside (as you all know the amount of people who want to sticky beek in a large opened door is amazing) The RH side inner bulkhead is also piano hinged to allow cartage of large bulky items, this side has the roll along flyscreen door I adapted from a house one. The inner bulkheads have been clad on the outside with polished alloy sheet, with the inside simply varnished. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/littlepod_lift_gate2-235x320.jpg" rel="lightbox">  <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/tailgate_and_walls-325x294.jpg" rel="lightbox"> lower gate open and closed above pics <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/lifting_gate-370x295.jpg" rel="lightbox"> above gas rams and lightening panels While I was building the doors I acquired two shop soiled alloy framed RV window from a local dealer, turned they fitted perfectly between the framing members of the body without cutting the top and bottm steel work. I mounted them high on the body (again to stop sticky beeks trying to look in)  The local Kmart (your walmart) had venetian blind sale. I purchased two slimline silver alloy house blinds and cut them down to scale to fit. They have a great little pin at the bottom that hold them in place while driving which I like. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/blinds_fitted-426x284.jpg" rel="lightbox"> The galley module was then finished which has a modified butane stove (now runs on metho) a 12v frig built under, sink and some storage. This is framed out of a light marine ply and clad in polished alloy sheet. The whole module is removable using a quick release 12v plug, sink outlet and water feed line. I remove it when I need to carry big stuff (with the sink removed and the inner bulkhead door swung in I have a carrying space of 8ft long X 4ft wide X 6ft high) Most of my lower internal walls have been lined with replaceable polished alloy sheet. The bicycle storage cargo door was next in my firing line.... As I carry two Cannondale bikes with me I wanted these safetly locked inside at all times, I didn't want them in the house area with me though. After the cladding on the side of the motorhome was done I was reluctant to cut into the new surface. A trip down the recyclers bought me some SS ice truck compartment doors for $5 AU. I removed the giant locks (which would stick out to much) and lay sticky plastic sheet on the outside to allow me to then lay on a panel of white cargosheet to colour co ordinate the door. I again fitted the same keyed alike cam locks which I used in the back tailgates. (This way I'm not fishing around looking for different keys) I cut through one side framing member of the body to get the door to fit. It's hinged again with Kenworth door piano hinge. Theres lots of storage under the bed with reasonable acess. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/new_cargo_door_for_bikes-235x299.jpg" rel="lightbox">  <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/piano_hinge_SS_door-216x297.jpg" rel="lightbox"> More to come ................. Geoff

rokguy · Mar 3, 2013

Next installment............ Hi,  It was time to do the fiddly bits. Such as fit the water tank, water lines and batteries, solar panels, light fittings etc Also sanding the original wooden floor and varnishing it.  As I might have stated before the lighting is all strip LED, the 10 LED strips I acquired from the local big box hardware store, I installed them at various points along the house wiring harness hidden under the full lenght varnished pelmets these are designed to pop off and expose the wiring for future expansion or repairs. The LEDs are all on one fused power circuit with individual light switches. shown in the attach pics below. The water line is simple 12mm food grade one plumbed and pumped to the galley by a hand pump through a check valve. Water fill inlet is hidden behind the drop down tailgate. This keeps the whole water storage simple as I also only use a solar pump shower. Outside I wanted my truck to look more truck than motorhome so I fitted twin air electric horns to the cab roof and the same strip LED's linked in parrallel to give me some nice daytime running clearance lights. More LED truck clearance lights were added along the polished alloy side skirts and bumper. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/top_of_cab_showing_horns_lights-440x296.jpg" rel="lightbox"> The outside stripping I did in grey metallic and gold metallic to match my company colour scheme and had the signwritting stickers made to match. <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/KW_flaps_and_SS_tailgate-343x315.jpg" rel="lightbox"> full width Kenworth mudflaps and homemade SS flap weights complete the back. At the front I wanted to make the air flow better around the truck so I built my own SS Texas bar bumper which has an air intake incorporated into the lower panel <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/close_up_of_texas_bar-458x312.jpg" rel="lightbox"> This bumper modernisers the look of this now 20 year old truck and stops to much air blowing under the cab giving a bit more stability at hwy speeds and the side skirting draws air along the sides with lesss torbulence. It doesn't make it go faster but doe help in diesel mileage <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/LED_clearance_lights-428x373.jpg" rel="lightbox"> <IMG class=bbc_img src="http://stonemasoncarver.com/sitebuilder/images/side_profile_wheel_covers-511x381.jpg" rel="lightbox"> Here is the finshed outside which has been topped off with SS wheel inserts Below are some interior pics. and the two other trucks.  The Kenworth is my long term hobby.

ilovemyvan · Mar 3, 2013

Rokguy, you must be so proud. Your rig is wonderful. I especially like the clever sink area. Congratulation. Blue Skies Nicole

Mortisha · Mar 3, 2013

Great Job!! Love the pics! Thanks for Sharing HuggZ

PYSCHOWard · Mar 3, 2013

SWEET,it is. Awesome workmanship too.

teetaw259 · Mar 10, 2013

Outstanding work!

rokguy · Mar 10, 2013

Thanks Guys and gals. Oh and Welcome, Teetaw Here's some pics of the air ride, tilted cab. I was replacing the front shocks yesterday. easyyyyyy... I love this feature. I just noticed I didn't post the trucks together picture as stated above. Here they are..... Geoff

rokguy · Aug 21, 2019

Thought I would post a recent picture of this conversion. Truck is still going strong and is very comfortable though I am only on the road 8 months out of the year.

Matlock · Aug 21, 2019

Geoff, Well done.

I missed this post from years past and really appreciate you taking the time to update.
Very nice project. :thumbsup:

rokguy's motorhome truck conversion

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