Putting Windows in a box truck?

[GrantRobertson]

OK, just spitballing here.

How easy would it be to put Windows in a box truck? I see a lot more around for what I can afford. I could delay installing the windows while I still need stealth, here in town. Then install the windows once I get out in the boonies. I definitely know I don't want the vehicle I live in to be like a cave.

 

[PeacefulSoul]

OK, just spitballing here.

How easy would it be to put Windows in a box truck? I see a lot more around for what I can afford. I could delay installing the windows while I still need stealth, here in town. Then install the windows once I get out in the boonies. I definitely know I don't want the  vehicle I live in to be like a cave.

I owned a box truck and put two windows in it. Its pretty simple. The scariest part is cutting the hole in the metal.  We just used the window as a template, cut the hole, pop the window in and then screwed wood trim(I used 1x4) to inside of hole.  I then put wood trim on outside of window and used silicone caulk on both sides. It worked well and did not leak.

 

[masterplumber]

My cargo trailer had no windows when I bought it. I bought windows that would fit between my wall studs so I wouldn't have to do any structural work. Then I filled the wall cavity with plywood extending it about 3 1/2'' above and below the window height so I would have some backing when I was done. After that I just cut all the way through the plywood and aluminum siding with my Skil Saw set to just barely cut through. It actually went much faster than I thought it would and I installed all 4 windows on a Saturday. Since box vans are built pretty similar to cargo trailers I imagine you could use the same method. Drilling a hole and using a jig saw works also if you don't have a Skil Saw. Just remember to cut from the inside, so the outside metal is pulled back toward the plywood by the saw teeth, otherwise you can get a jagged edge.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

I think I'd use butyl "tape" as the exterior seal. RV sliding windows with screens are pretty easy to install once the hole is cut.

 

[highdesertranger]

yep and yep. just make sure you get windows to match the wall thickness you are dealing with. the windows come with different flanges depending on your wall thickness. also don't rely on just the aluminum to hold the window, there must be some type of backing simaler to what Jim said or if you put interior walls in you can use that. also like Jay said use butyl tape to seal the window. highdesertranger

 

[compassrose]

... with my Skil Saw... if you don't have a Skil Saw...

Any brand of circular saw will work as well if you don't have a SkilSaw brand circular saw. But if you must have a SkilSaw, you can get one at http://www.skiltools.com They make other tools besides circular saws.

(sorry just couldn't resist as it was related to an old running joke my husband & I used to do about brand names that have become common use like Kool-aid for any brand of the powdered drink mixes, Band-aid for any brand of stick on bandages, Coke for any brand and flavour of soda an so on)

 

[Fabber McGee]

If you use a sharp, fine toothed carbide blade in your circular saw (didn't want to be included in old the brand name joke, what ever it is) you can cut from either side. Some people say to cut sheet metal with a circular saw by turning the blade backwards, don't do it. All you'll get is a lot of noise and a beat up blade.

I cut the corner radius with a jig saw. If cutting from the outside, a couple layers of masking tape where the window is going will give you something to put your layout lines on without marking on the paint in case you decide to move the window before you get the hole cut. It will also keep the saw base plate from marring the paint.

Decide where you want the window, lay it out, cut the hole and plug the window into it. Be certain it's where you want it before you cut.... the only way to move it after you cut is to get a bigger window, ha,ha.

 

[GrantRobertson]

I have the tools and skills to cut sheet metal. My main concern is th e structural stability of the box. I am under the impression that the skin is an integral component contributing to the structural stability of the whole. If I were to put Windows in a box truck I would want to put in lots of them. Just as many as there are in a shuttle. However,, something tells me that would make the top half of the box kinda weak and wobbly.

Sorry I didn't mention that in my original post.

 

[compassrose]

I have the tools and skills to cut sheet metal. My main concern is th e structural stability of the box. I am under the impression that the skin is an integral component contributing to the structural stability of the whole. If I were to put Windows in a box truck I would want to put in lots of them. Just as many as there are in a shuttle. However,, something tells me that would make the top half of the box kinda weak and wobbly.

Sorry I didn't mention that in my original post.

I didn't think the box trucks were stressed skins. How many are "lots"? If you added cross members to the framing where you wanted to place a window then screwed or riveted the skin to the cross member before cutting, do you think that would work?

 

[GrantRobertson]

I didn't think the box trucks were stressed skins. How many are "lots"? If you added cross members to the framing where you wanted to place a window then screwed or riveted the skin to the cross member before cutting, do you think that would work?

"Lots" is a whole row of windows along the full length of each side, with only about 6" - 8" between them. I want to be able to see outside no matter which direction I look.

I would not cut any of the existing frame members. The windows would go between them.

I have spent a lot of my adult life holed up in small apartments or basements (not my mom's) working at my computer. I still plan to do a lot of computer work but I want my work space to feel like I am sitting outside, or in a screened in porch with nature all around me.

I guess, if I added structural support all around the windows and extending from floor to ceiling, then things would be OK.

Again, this is just me trying to examine ALL the options. I do that a lot.

 

[compassrose]

"Lots" is a whole row of windows along the full length of each side, with only about 6" - 8" between them. I want to be able to see outside no matter which direction I look.

I would not cut any of the existing frame members. The windows would go between them.

Depends on what you are putting in the box.

Galley? I would not put a window in there. If you put upper cabinets in, that would only leave you 18" between the bottom of the upper cabinets and the countertop. I've had an 18" high window in the class C. The importance of a "view" while I wash dishes was not that important. Besides, I did not spend that much time washing dishes and the curtains were always grubby.

Closets? Don't need windows in those.
Bathroom? Roof top vent maybe. I do have a window in my bathroom, it has been "frosted" with clear matte paint. Upside is I have natural light. Down side is anyone could look in. Might not be important to a man but I dislike having to be fully dressed in order to go to the bathroom. My shower stall has a window as well (double glue chip). I wanted to be able to slightly open my top down window to let some of the steam out after I take a shower. All my windows are original to the bus (top-down).
I think you need to strategically place your windows. Like place them to where you can look out rather than have a row behind your sofa where they are facing the back of your head. I do have 3 windows behind my loveseat/daybed. Right no they are covered with rigid foam to keep the heat out and soon the cold. I'm working on designing an interior storm window for all the windows. So I will lose the rigid foam at some point. I have a 25" wide window opposite the loveseat/daybed to the right of the fireplace/TV. My entry door to the left of the fireplace/TV is floor to ceiling glass panels (I keep Reflectix on it to keep the cold and heat out) I also have a full width windshield in the salon area. I battle the heat/cold with it.

I did have 4 windows in the bedroom. I pulled two to flip the bed around and now have two (50" double wide window) at the foot of the bed.

Lots of windows means either lots of heat coming in during the summers or lots of cold coming in during the winter. And I have had a lot of nosy folks peeking in my windows. I do live in RV park mostly. I did have one guy (only for about two months) who would simply stand in the door of his trailer and stare into the window of the bathroom. For hours. Freaked me out to see him starring. Freaked my husband out to see him starring. I don't know what his deal was but that was when I frosted the bathroom window. I like my privacy. The inside of my bus is a lot nicer than one would suspect from the exterior. That was deliberate.

I really think you need to do a little thinking on your floor plan before you start slicing out for windows.

 

[highdesertranger]

yeah compassrose has a lot of good points. I like windows too, but there is a limit. highdesertranger

 

[GrantRobertson]

I have already figured out my floor plan. It is designed so everything fits either below counter height or above the windows. Even the shower and closet. I had to get pretty inventive, which is kinda normal for me. I worked out this design for a shuttle bus. I am only thinking of a box truck because shorter shuttle buses are pretty rare and cost more than I would like. Also, box trucks don't have wheel chair lifts or school-bus-type doors to deal with, and the straight sides and roof are a bit easier to build in and on.

But there is something to be said for the more organic shape of a shuttle bus.

 

[Patrick46]

I've put windows in my stepvans before too.

No, it's not at all hard to do.

You talk about putting in alot of windows, but once you put one or two of them in, you'll be surprised at how much more open your rig feels. You won't really need all that many.

But there is something to be said for the more organic shape of a shuttle bus.

I only think this applies if you're going to driving ALOT. Otherwise, I think it takes useable space away.
This is why I like stepvans over Sprinter vans. Sure, the Sprinters get outstanding gas mileage over a stepvan...but you loose useable space in the process. It's all give & take. Pick your battles.

 

[bcbullet]

When I built mine (pics here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/show-us-something-that-you-made.523072/page-199#post-23743845 ) I ran all the 120v wiring along the ceiling and had individual drops to each outlet. The 12v was all localized except for the bathroom, not in pics but behind the white door. This was for the future windows which I would cut in when I determined how many I would want. I left empty wall space in the over-cab area for  for future windows as well. In the end, I enjoyed the stealth aspect so much I only ended up cutting one window in the side door.You can see the "security cover" on it in one of the interior shots...in reality, I have removed the cover exactly twice in four years. If I want to let the outdoors in, I just throw open the doors and voila!. The peace of mind afforded by the solid box for security cannot be described. It is like a bank vault when the hatches are all battened down. 

To summarize, plan for the windows, but don't go hog wild until you determine how many you will really need. In the end, you may be quite surprised.

 

[GrantRobertson]

When I built mine (pics here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/show-us-something-that-you-made.523072/page-199#post-23743845 )

Very nice build quality. What do you do with those aluminum steps when you are driving?

 

[Patrick46]

Nice build BcBullet!

I noticed that on ADV when you first posted it.

 

[bcbullet]

Thanks to you both. The steps flip up into the inside. I am thinking of removing them and getting some folding truck camper style as I hardly ever use them unless the table is folded down off the back door.
I have a bit of a "renovation" coming up in about a year, but it was planned into the original build. I actually use the truck for visiting my "divorced kids" every second weekend and it is stored in their city. One of them has now gone off to post secondary and the other will be as well next year. At that point I will expand the cabover bed, put a comfy couch where the bed is across from the TV and convert the third bed to an entertainment/storage/Dickenson marine heater area. I may ditch the table off the back door at that point and perhaps put a low table in the new living room. We'll see how it goes...

 

[LoupGarou]

Be it a shuttle bus or box truck conversion, your going to make some noise. Make sure you have a place where you can sort it all out and do the work.

 

[masterplumber]

Any brand of circular saw will work as well if you don't have a SkilSaw brand circular saw. But if you must have a SkilSaw, you can get one at http://www.skiltools.com They make other tools besides circular saws.

(sorry just couldn't resist as it was related to an old running joke my husband & I used to do about brand names that have become common use like Kool-aid for any brand of the powdered drink mixes, Band-aid for any brand of stick on bandages, Coke for any brand and flavour of soda an so on)

Ha Ha Ha, actually, my "Skilsaw is made by Makita, although I do have an actual Skil as a backup. And my Sawzall, is made by Porter Cable. I do have real "Kleenex" in my trailer if that helps!

Good thing all this doesn't apply to windows - it would be terrible if we all called them "Pellas"