Debit Servus Trailer-based WK Gasifier project
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debit.servusPaul
15d
1
This is the thread for my woodgasification System project, building from the Wayne Keith gasifier plans.
I have acquired the book & read it halfway through. It is hard for a visual learner to visualize the build process from text descriptions and the few images in the book. I need to lookup videos of people building WK gasifiers.
This was my thread for introductory questions:
I have been researching wood gasification for over a year, and being a poor boy the main thing that has held me back from building a system is the money. Other that that is has been cracking (pun intended) water to provide overunity Hydrogen and Oxygen gas to run an engine. I found ready made systems that can run a car or truck costing thousands, and know my only option is to build one from scratch. I am not a welder and would have to hire a seam welder to join the components together. I know…
I have a few substitutions I am thinking of using to get up and running ASAP:
-For the radiator fins outside of the firetube, I thought of using JB WELD to hold the fins in place so I could focus energy to the permanent weld.
-I am thinking of unconventional material sources, like cutting an old BBQ up to get metal plates and other materials to build the System from.
-Could I get away with cheap cooling pipes and thin walls on every component other than the gasifier? This is just to get up and running quicker and will be upgraded later with the money not going into gasoline. The gasifier is the most complex component on the entire System, I am planning on building this component decently at the expense of the other components. Because it would take a lot of work to cut apart and rebuild the gasifier with quality components.
-I just came up with this idea for the firetube fins. if I acquired a broken window air conditioner, could I cut the hot side radiator out, do "relief cuts" on the refigerant tubes (If I would go for this, I would try to get an A/C with no refigerant left in the system) and bend the "fins" around the firetube?
[img=45x45]http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/chris/45/12230_1.png[/img]
ChrisChris Saenz
15d
It is hard for a visual learner to visualize the build process from text descriptions and the few images in the book.
That's why we have a full video tutorial.
http://www.driveonwood.com/premium/construction/2
using JB WELD to hold the fins in place
No, it's not rated for the heat. It won't transfer heat well at all, compared to steel welds.
cutting an old BBQ up to get metal plates
It depends, it can work OK to reuse materials just watch out with the thin stuff... it is hard to weld and rusts through quickly. Clean and paint any rusty metal.
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cheap cooling pipes and thin walls on every component other than the gasifier? This is just to get up and running quicker...
Yes. But this will incur
Technical Debt. This concept comes from software, but applies here.
en.wikipedia.org
Technical debt
Technical debt (also known as design debt or code debt) is a recent[when?] metaphor referring to the eventual consequences of any system design, software architecture or software development within a codebase. The debt can be thought of as work that needs to be done before a particular job can be considered complete or proper. If the debt is not repaid, then it will keep on accumulating interest, making it hard to implement changes later on. Unaddressed technical debt increases software entrop An...
You can carry
some technical debt, and repay it later. IF you are experienced enough. Otherwise, anything you save in material costs will be repaid many times over in frustration and unreliable operation. An experienced operator can "get away with it" - sometimes, by knowing where to skimp and what will break first. A new operator will have a hard time with this.
Now, since you apparently have no other choice, and assuming you understand the technical debt that must be carried, then do what you have to. Better to be running an engine and learning then dreaming about someday running. Just be aware, this is a tough row to hoe.
The main thing that will make this work is your enthusiasm and dogged perserverance. If you don't have that quality in spades, I'm afraid you won't get very far.
Chris Saenz
15d
-I just came up with this idea for the firetube fins. if I acquired a broken window air conditioner, could I cut the hot side radiator out, do "relief cuts" on the refigerant tubes (If I would go for this, I would try to get an A/C with no refigerant left in the system) and bend the "fins" around the firetube?
Those fins are usually aluminum, can't weld to steel. They are far too thin to weld to the firetube, and not designed to shed the amount of heat we're talking about.
With all due respect, why are you trying to redesign this? I thought you were doing it "right" on the gasifier, because it's hard to rebuild later? This is literally
the heart of the gasifier. We can't help you if you don't stick to the plans.
Do what Wayne does, get Wayne's results. Find some 16 gauge metal, cut it into 1" strips, and start welding.
debit.servusPaul
15d
1
JB WELD won't transfer the heat nor be a permanent solution, what I was asking was could I use JB weld to hold the fins down so I can concentrate on the steel welds to permanently bond the fins.
"It depends, it can work OK to reuse materials just watch out with the thin stuff... it is hard to weld and rusts through quickly. Clean and paint any rusty metal." Would thin stainless steel would be OK?
Thanks! I just learned a new term "Technical Debt"! I will keep that in mind for everything from now on.
"You can carry some technical debt, and repay it later. IF you
are experienced enough. Otherwise, anything you save in material costs
will be repaid many times over in frustration and unreliable operation.
An experienced operator can "get away with it" - sometimes, by knowing
where to skimp and what will break first. A new operator will have a
hard time with this. " I am planning to stick to the stock plans and reccommendations, following everything in the book.
"Those fins are usually aluminum, can't weld to steel. They are far
too thin to weld to the firetube, and not designed to shed the amount of
heat we're talking about.
With all due respect, why are you trying to redesign this? I thought
you were doing it "right" on the gasifier, because it's hard to rebuild
later? This is literally the heart of the gasifier. We can't help you if you don't stick to the plans. "
I just came up with that idea and quickly edited it in. For the fins I plan to call up sawmills and ask for their old and dull sawblades.
Didn't know that about aluminum to steel, need to take Welding 101.
Excuse me as I am just getting started, I am currently in the material gathering & learning stage right now.
When I experience my first seam welds, using scrap metal I don't care for. Would it be a good idea to weld with the same wire I will be welding with to build the System?
I am not trying to redesign, just asking about substiutions like the book reccommends. I will leave the redesigns and ideas testing to those with four or more digit bank account balances and the experts.
Chris Saenz
15d
call up sawmills and ask for their old and dull sawblades.
Those will work great. Wayne has used them for years.
When I experience my first seam welds, using scrap metal I don't care for. Would it be a good idea to weld with the same wire I will be welding with to build the System?
Yes. You should use the same wire and settings, and practice on scrap metal of similar thickness to what you're going to use. Even the pro's will do this sometimes, when switching to much thicker or thinner metals, just to get the machine set correctly, and get the feel of it back into your hands.
Be sure to clean the metal thoroughly. Use an angle grinder to get down to bare shiny metal before welding.
We have a bunch of welding tips here:
http://www.driveonwood.com/library/welding/1
debit.servusPaul
15d
1
"Use an angle grinder to get down to bare shiny metal before welding." I know what most types of bare shiny metal looks like. An angle grinder is designed more to cut and not sand. I have access to a sander and also have metal brush wheels that attach to a powerdrill. With most of the basic tools which are required for building a woodgas system.
I wish I could take out a loan to build or buy a woodgas system (if a steal of a deal comes up) then pay it back with the money saved not burning gasoline. Perhaps somebody here can offer Wood Gas Loans, collateralized or unsecured depending on ones credit score. Just be sure to be open to everybody; bad credit, no credit, doesn't matter. So sub-prime people like me have a chance to get ahead.
Perhaps sell woodgas systems in a car loan type arrangement, so people can start running on wood and become free from gasoline right away!
If I had money I would preferably buy a ready-made wood gasification system. Or somebody elses homebuilt woodgasification system, or the high quality materials and high-end welder to build my own.
Chris Saenz
15d
Just a pro tip, since you're posting so much so fast, and doing a lot of quoting....
Select some text to quote, and a button pops up with "quote reply". This inserts the code to make the little grey boxes. It just makes reading a little easier, no biggie.
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JB weld to hold the fins down so I can concentrate on the steel welds
OK, I misunderstood. This is not necessary. You will be setting up fins and tack welding them so quickly that you can just hold them by hand, or with a clamp. You can't stage more than one at a time anyway, because you need the room for the welding torch on the open side.
Would thin stainless steel would be OK?
Thin is still hard to weld. Different expansion rates mean you can't weld steel to stainless and expect it to last. Plus the welded areas will still rust. Given that, yes stainless will work in some situations.
I am not trying to redesign, just asking about substiutions
That's fine! I do the same all the time. Understanding it better will guide your substitutions.
[img=45x45]http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/wayne/45/9839_1.png[/img]
Wayne Keith ( Springville AL )
14d
"Use an angle grinder to get down to bare shiny metal before welding." I know what most types of bare shiny metal looks like. An angle grinder is designed more to cut and not sand. I have access to a sander and also have metal brush wheels that attach to a powerdrill. With most of the basic tools which are required for building a woodgas system.
Good morning Paul,
Heavy rains in Alabama so good day to stay inside catching up on computer work and reading through the threads .
I noticed you mention sanders vs the angle grinder . I have a couple of sanders but have never used them building a gasifier. However I keep a little angle girder handy and use it often . In seconds I can switch from an 8 inch disc to a 4 inch and also attach a brush if needed . I think one can pick up these little girders near 30 bucks .
Thanks
Wayne
alextaylor62Alex Taylor
14d
Paul,
Look for something similar to this for your angle grinder. Works great for pre-welding metal prep.:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=47473679
Chris Saenz
14d
2
I found a much cheaper source of those... Lehigh Valley Abrasives for $2 a piece. Good quality too!
http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/coated-abrasives-4-5-x-7-8-zirconia-flap-disc-type-29-conical-40-grit-t29-lva-cfcas45s040zx-fd4-5-40zc2
[img=398x397]
http://forum.driveonwood.com/upload...7f3c88325ef2def101735df516e2da6dc9b.png[/img]
And, if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they have angle grinders for $15, sometimes less with coupons.
[img=45x45]http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/brianhwa/45/11361_1.png[/img]
BrianHWABrian Hamalainen (Chimacum, OlyPen, WA)
13d
I'll note that the sanding flap discs in
@Chris link are designed to be used on steel/hard metals, while the Lowe's discs are designed for wood/soft metals and should have much better life span for our purposes.
debit.servusPaul
12d
Everybody should have an angle grinder in their toolbox!
I didn't know there was more than one kind of wheel to fit onto an angle grinder.
Thanks for sharing Lehigh Valley Abrasives!!! I will be ordering from them soon! I couldn't find shipping costs on their website, do they offer free shipping over a certain order amount? Because I don't want to pay more than a couple dollars to ship a couple wheels.
For Harbor Freight I have one 3 miles away. I almost always use (sometimes I forget the coupons at home) their coupons, especially the 20% off and Free Item coupons. HFT is my favorite hardware store until I am pulling at least 3 times the income I am now. I dream however of owning tools that are high quality, lasting for years and years if not for life.
I am good with buying somebodys already built WK gasifier if they can offer special financing or be up for bartering. I am not counting on an attaniable offer coming up for me, so I plan to build my own.
Heres a frugal tip: Think about the dollars, not the pennies. Don't worry about the pennies, nickels or dimes. When you save a dollar you just saved 100 pennies! Be
penny foolish and
pound wise.
This is a completely new forum system for me, it is not like other forums I post on that use vBulletin or similar backend forum software. I would love to see the option to switch to a vBulletin or siminar forum interface.
Some basic information about me: I am a 22 year old maverick boi living in San Jose, CA with a 3 digit monthly income and a desire to explore the US & Canada.
dmackgD. Mack Gilliam
12d
I must be from the old school.......Take care of the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves.
Tim Hiebert
12d
Paul,
In reference to JB Weld use- this is and epoxy based adhesive. It does not tolerate the heat levels produced by welding and will melt/fail and then burn. The epoxy fumes are really bad to breath too! You can hand hold the fins and tack them every few inches, then come back and weld them on permanently.
debit.servusPaul
11d
2 http://forum.driveonwood.com/t/debit-servus-trailer-based-wk-gasifier-project/2096
_____Why was my post flagged?
_____I need to go to SIMS metal and look at the metal they have for sale. Also get the general manager of a sawmill in Davenport live on the phone next week so I can acqire the used sawblades.
I am checking Craigslist free section for free metal, the pickings are slim because there are lots of spanish who pick up free scrap metal and cash it in at SIMS metal, getting by on the profits.
_____I am thinking of building the gasifier first, as it's the hardest component, making the other components feel easy. Or should I go in reverse? build the easy components first (less critical welds) then build the gasifier with improved welding skill.
_____Also, for the cooling rails, Would it be a good idea to substitute an old car radiator or two?
_____My dream is for the woodgas System to be on the largest capacity trailer the van can pull, so whatever pulling capacity the back-end hitch reciever is rated for. Not just for wood capacity but paid transposting to pay for travel expenses, maintaining the van, woodgas System and trailer.
WayneWayne Keith ( Springville AL )
11d
Hello Paul.
The automotive radiators will clog pretty quick.
debit.servusPaul
4d
_____Why was my previous post flagged?
_____Today I acquired carbon steel MIG welding wire, with alloy ER70S-6 (whatever that means) and .035 gauge, from HFT. I plan to practice weld with this. The book reccommends 87hp (HorsePower?) ESAB (is this an alloy as well?) wire.
_____Should I build the easy components first (less critical welds) then
build the gasifier with improved welding skill?
_____Excuse me for not living in a part of the country that has more resources for these kind of DIY projects.
[img=45x45]http://forum.driveonwood.com/user_avatar/forum.driveonwood.com/jeff/45/12537_1.png[/img]
JeffJeff Davis (Union City, PA)
4d
_____Why was my previous post flagged?
Hi Paul,
I haven't followed this but it's possible that people found some words that were a bit personally offensive. I would keep going forward.
Start welding some scrap first and next try welding a smaller simple component of your system. Others milage may vary.
It takes time to find the right material. Take your time.
Chris Saenz
4d
Today I acquired carbon steel MIG welding wire, with alloy ER70S-6 (whatever that means) and .035 gauge, from HFT. I plan to practice weld with this. The book reccommends 87hp (HorsePower?) ESAB (is this an alloy as well?) wire.
That's a pretty standard alloy wire, HFT quality is not great but it should weld OK. For the real thin stuff .023 will work better.
87hp ESAB wire is a different alloy wire made by the ESAB company. It welds well and it's what I use a lot. More expensive than the ER70S-6.
_____Why was my previous post flagged?
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debit.servusPaul
6h
That's a pretty standard alloy wire, HFT quality is not great but it should weld OK.
_____Is the HFT quality wire good enough to practice on?
_____I will get the quality wire the book says to actually build the System. No cents of skimping here.