P2271 engine code...

[galladanb]

My 2008 Chevy express 3500 extended, with the 5.7 engine is throwing this code

P2271 - o2 sensor signal biased/stuck rich bank1 sensor2

What the heck? What does it mean, where is it located, is it expensive? Can I replace it? Does it demand a shop to change it?

I'm heading over and google it, but I know these codes can be uber elusive, and easy to misdirect....

Any help here?

 

[galladanb]

130000 or so....

Google was generic, no exact location....

 

[highdesertranger]

as with any code you must do testing to narrow down the fault. here is a good run down of what could be wrong, http://www.engine-codes.com/p2271_chevrolet.html . highdesertranger

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

as with any code you must do testing to narrow down the fault.  here is a good run down of what could be wrong,  http://www.engine-codes.com/p2271_chevrolet.html .  highdesertranger

That's a great site.  Bookmarked.  Thanks.

 

[galladanb]

A thought, well mostly a question...

The previous owner had dinged up the tailpipe, and actually al out closed it up.

I took the grinder and removed most of the folded in part, and tried to reshape it to a more angled look.

Could that have an adverse effect? Maybe a different kind of back pressure?

Hell I don't know???

The website looked promising, but I don't know how to run any of those tests, and I still don't know where the darn thing is?

I have a feeling it would be a couple of hundred bucks at a shop to put in a 35 dollar part, that may or may not fix the thrown code? 

Can ya tell, this is the part of automotive ownership I REALLY, REALLY, hate?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

My 2008 Chevy express 3500 extended, with the 5.7 engine is throwing this code

P2271 - o2 sensor signal biased/stuck rich bank1 sensor2

What the heck? What does it mean, where is it located, is it expensive? Can I replace it? Does it demand a shop to change it?

I'm heading over and google it, but I know these codes can be uber elusive, and easy to misdirect....

Any help here?

First of all, there is no 5.7 engine in 2008s.  I'm guessing you have the 5.3.

Here's a link to an oxygen sensor for that model and engine.  Price is $55 and you can enlarge the picture to see what it looks like.  Should be easy to change, and since it is the REAR sensor, should be in the exhaust BEHIND the catalytic converter.  (Front oxygen sensors are in front of the converter).  Could be a number of things beside the sensor itself, as HDR rightly points out.  But the average lifespan of oxygen sensors is 100,000 to 150,000 miles, so at 130,000 you may well be due for a new one.  Suggest you read the attached article.  Oh, and before you change it, I suggest you might unplug it and clean the connectors with contact cleaner, or, better yet, that magic Deoxit juice Sternwake is always recommending.  That might solve your problem.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...71,exhaust+&+emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132

http://www.counterman.com/technical-forum-when-should-an-oxygen-sensor-be-replaced/

 

[SternWake]

The purpose of 2 oxygen sensors is to test the efficacy of the catalytic converter.

While the sensor itself can be out of whack, or excessive resistance within the connector doe to contact oxidation could also send a Mystifying voltage back to the engine computer, it is also possible the catalytic converter is no longer able to perform its function and requires replacing.

Try banging on it with a fist and see if it sounds like things rattling in there.

If so, it is likely that honeycomb grid has collapsed and is presenting more resistance to exhaust gasses, which will limit power.

The code you received means investigate the exhaust components and the wiring/connectors to the O2 sensors. it could simply mean replace the after sensor, or both pre and post sensor and the CATCon.

And the Caig Deoxit is magic electrical juice, but I am shying away from the Spray cans and recommned D5 in a bottle. very little is required.

https://www.amazon.com/Booster-Elec...qid=1490554603&sr=8-8&keywords=caig+deoxit+d5

d100 is the full strength version for severly oxidized and dirty contacts, and should not be left on after it dissolves the oxidation.
D5 is the version one can apply and reconnect.

No other electrical contact cleaner actually does anything about the oxidation on the conductive surfaces. They are good for flushing out old crusty contaminated dielectric grease though

Any connector i open up gets Deoxit on it, and the precision swabs usually turn black and get shredded, even when the contacts look shiny and smooth. After Deoxit they are like oiled gold/chrome.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Craft...&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=tamiya+precision+swabs

https://www.amazon.com/DenTek-Profe...ie=UTF8&qid=1490555039&sr=8-7&keywords=dentek


The sprays, i think they having issues with the amount of Magic they stuff in the can. There should be a slight pinkish hue on a Q tip or white paper towel, and my latest 2 cans are devoid of this, and do not seem to clean as well.

I'd First deOxit the 02 sensor connectors, remove battery cable to reset engine computer then drive again and see if code returns.

 

[Alcatraz]

A thought, well mostly a question...

The previous owner had dinged up the tailpipe, and actually al out closed it up.

I took the grinder and removed most of the folded in part, and tried to reshape it to a more angled look.

Could that have an adverse effect? Maybe a different kind of back pressure?

Hell I don't know???

The website looked promising, but I don't know how to run any of those tests, and I still don't know where the darn thing is?

I have a feeling it would be a couple of hundred bucks at a shop to put in a 35 dollar part, that may or may not fix the thrown code? 

Can ya tell, this is the part of automotive ownership I REALLY, REALLY, hate?

Heck yes on the tail pipe.
 Never me :angel:  but certain kids I knew use to stick a potato up the exhaust pipes of cars. Once the pressure built  up that car would not start anymore!

 

[Alcatraz]

The purpose of 2 oxygen sensors is to test the efficacy of the catalytic converter.

While the sensor itself can be out of whack, or excessive resistance within the connector doe to contact oxidation could also send a Mystifying voltage back to the engine computer, it is also possible the catalytic converter is no longer able to perform its function and requires replacing.

Try banging on it with a fist and see if it sounds like things rattling in there.

If so, it is likely that honeycomb grid has collapsed and is presenting more resistance to exhaust gasses, which will limit power.

The code you received means investigate the exhaust components and the wiring/connectors to the O2 sensors.  it could simply mean replace the after sensor, or both pre and post sensor and the CATCon.

And the Caig Deoxit is magic electrical juice, but I am shying away from the Spray cans and recommned D5 in a bottle.  very little is required.

https://www.amazon.com/Booster-Elec...qid=1490554603&sr=8-8&keywords=caig+deoxit+d5

d100 is the full strength version for severly oxidized and dirty contacts, and should not be left on after it dissolves the oxidation.
D5 is the version one can apply and reconnect.

No other electrical contact cleaner actually does anything about the oxidation on the conductive surfaces.  They are good for flushing out old crusty contaminated dielectric grease though

Any connector i open up gets Deoxit on it, and the precision swabs usually turn black and get shredded, even when the contacts look shiny and smooth. After Deoxit they are like oiled gold/chrome.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Craft...&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=tamiya+precision+swabs

https://www.amazon.com/DenTek-Profe...ie=UTF8&qid=1490555039&sr=8-7&keywords=dentek


The sprays, i think they having issues with the amount of Magic they stuff in the can.  There should be a slight pinkish hue on a Q tip or white paper towel, and my latest 2 cans are devoid of this, and do not seem to clean as well.

I'd First deOxit the 02 sensor connectors, remove battery cable to reset engine computer then drive again and see if code returns.

Excellent advice here.
Always disconnect the battery and never use a any thing to scrape the inside of the connector (good way to short out the computer). I personally use CRC QD electronics spray Cleaner and the Permatex Dielectric grease , but that is all a matter of personal choice.
I am currently prepping my van for summer and that is a yearly must do.  !97,000 plus miles and it runs like a top.