Well-known memberSupporting Member
- Sep 8, 2016
- Reaction score
And don't operate a generator inside your Van garage !
Most of your TV power use will be the display, so you could potentially save energy that way.T.V. is on all day and night, the computer is on most of the day and I watch both of them at the same time. Typing right now listening to the T.V. .
Actually your idea is simple logic. Over the next couple of years I'll try finding some kind of audio only methods of sleep noise . I usually just listen to the T.V. as I lumber off. I don't have to have a silent night to listen for unsavory personalities because when I go to sleep I will turn on the van alarm so if someone comes a messing they will get a big surprise when the alarm goes off and I will wake up.You do not NEED to run a TV all night. You could use talk radio or podcast or even audio books or playlists for distraction if you can’t sleep without noise. There are devices that can play them which are are powered with USB that are not big power consumers.
Forcing your “living on the electrical grid” old habits and patterns into a nomadic life is never going to be cost effective or easy. Try changing away from that TV habit instead of trying to force square pegs into round holes. Human brains are actually pretty good at adapting.
I just used the Vevor as an example. I haven't made up my mind on what refer/freezer I will go with. I just wanted to get an idea of what kind of power I will need and how to use it well. I saw a video on some refer/freezer the big rig haulers use. There may be some other brands that are popular I don't know about yet."I looked at a Vevor 48 qt. refer/freezer and it was rated at 80 watts."
Did that rating include ambient air temperature and usage?
Refrigerators/Freezers in a van/RV/tent/car/truck/cardboard box are not in a sticks and bricks controlled environment of 68-72F.
The running power for a Whynter 45qt is specified as 60W no matter the usage or temperature.
The DC running current is specified as 5.3A. I see that figure on my BMS.
Here's what happens when ambient air temps come into the equation:
Whynter specifies power usage for use as a refrigerator or freezer at ambient air temps of 77F, 90F, and 107F.
Ah for a 45QT Whynter:
@77F ambient depending on usage:
I hear you. I will have to vent the generator to the outside and pipe the exhaust out also. Hey, when the wind shifts the exhaust from my diesel van engine chokes me so the windows go up.You will have several things to consider when trying to build in a generator into your van. The exhaust must be gotten away from the van and not allowed to enter the living area. You will need to use safety monitors to keep alive should some thing go wrong. Even something as simple as the wind blowing the wrong direction can kill you. You must have clean fresh air coming in. You will be powering the generator with a flammable fuel so precautions like fire extinguishers and safe fire walls/containers that can be secured come into play. The generator will create a lot of heat while running. You will need access to change oil and service it every 100 hours of run time if you expect it to be covered under warranty and last long term. I run mine about 3 to 4 hours to bulk charge and cook breakfast every day with the small solar system I have finishes topping off the batteries to full charge during the day. I have a monthly oil change/service routine. My gasoline powered generator requires fuel treatment for ethanol to keep the warranty in effect, so an additional expense and another reason I prefer propane. My system is pretty old technology therefore a little less efficient and a little more work to maintain but probably not as expensive as yours will be. Motorhomes use exterior compartments to house a generator. You will need to make your living area completely separate from the generator compartment. There are very few generators if any that are recommended to be used anywhere other than in open areas outdoors.
This is what another member of this forum did. I'm really impressed at his goal with the generator in the box. I replied to his post asking him if he ran the generator with the lid of the box closed to see what the effects on the generator would be from the heat of the generator motor but he hasn't responded yet.Here's what I did in my box truck, it will be a little more difficult in a van but the same principle applies.
I built a box that opens to the outside via a vented door, I used an RV refer vent set into a larger door made of plywood. The inside is Hardy board over 3/4" ply. Then 2" of polyiso foam board, and then another layer of 3/4" ply. Basically a sandwich of plywood and foam board with hardy board on the inside of the box.
Each layer has all the seams taped with several layers of foil tape and the foam board has seams sealed with high temp expanding foam, the orange stuff. There is a cable entry gland sealed with silicone that has a short pigtail/extension cord plugged into the genny leading out of the box.
I cut two 6" holes in the floor and covered with screen. Added an extension to the exhaust and ran it down through another hole, then rearward out the back of the truck, exiting roughly the same area as the truck's exhaust.
It's a 3500w champion open frame Genny that is 68db I think. A lot louder than the ones you're looking at. When running hard you can hear it but I wouldn't say it's loud. What's more annoying is the vibration you can feel the closer you get to the box, which is situated under a bench area. I'm thinking of incorporating rubber or something into the mounts to cut vibration but haven't gotten around to it yet.
I would suggest making absolutely sure the box is sealed and separated from the living space. Putting vent holes in the floor or the back door, or both, might be required unless you want to leave the door open all the time when running the genny.
To seal the box against the door it might be a good idea to use some thick rubber weatherstripping on both the door and the box edge so that they overlap when the door shuts and ensure a good seal. That will probably be the main difficulty, getting the generator area perfectly sealed from the living space.
Make sure to have carbon monoxide detectors in the van, don't rely on the generators automatic shutdown to save your life.
Hi bagabum, Yeah I've read that the Honda generators are the best on the market but I purchased a Westinghouse Flat Screen T.V. (made in the U.S.A.) and it has been OK. The Westinghouse generators may be made in china but what's not made in china except Westinghouse T.V.'s.Jim, get you a Honda EU1000i for your charging needs, it sips fuel, 6 to 8 hours run time on 0.5 gallons gas. They last and last, the chinese stuff is temporary. I have a Honda EU200i that I run with synthetic that is 16 years old, wouldn't even guess at the hours on it. Plan on your DC frig drawing 250 watts a day, they do not run continuous, a lot of them draw 45 watts in eco mode. I would not build the solar power station ( MPPT, converter, inverter, etc.) Note: (I have built many) But now, I would purchase a self-contained station, something like a Bluetti 200P or equivalent. They have the protection, display, breakers, inverter, converters, MPPT, etc all built into a clean, proven package. my2cents
Enter your email address to join:
Register today and take advantage of membership benefits.
Enter your email address to join: