NEW Vented Propane heater for small spaces

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planet-beaver

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The heater is 94% efficient. It draws the air from the outside, mixes it with LP, burns it and throws back outside with all the fumes, moisture and carbon monoxide. The heat stays in the vehicle and it's all done without any need for electricity. It is totally silent too. $7 Optional 12v silent fan from amozon is needed if large space is heated and the burners are at max. Needle valve adjusts the flame size depending on heat required. On low, it burns 1/2lb of LP for 12 hours. On high, over 2lb. $15 for 20lb tank exchange should last 2 weeks running 24/7. About $30 of heating cost per month. In my SUV, it raises temp inside by 25f degrees running on low and over 50f on high. No insulation in my SUV anywhere. Standard PVC pipe connection allows for any installation. Hang it out the window and seal gaps with foam. I tested it last 5 night and it works like a charm. It can be built for under $500. No moving parts, nothing to break. Will last a lifetime. What you guys think.
 

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gone2day

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^Only $500? Here's something I saw a few years ago that is similar but a bit simpler and cheaper:

Atomic heater b.jpg

I've been meaning to find a fruitcake tin and try it.
 

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abnorm

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Here's Beaver's thread from 4 yrs ago showing the original design concept

 

planet-beaver

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^Only $500? Here's something I saw a few years ago that is similar but a bit simpler and cheaper:

View attachment 31330

I've been meaning to find a fruitcake tin and try it.
The main issue with venting the LP heater is grabbing most of the heat. This simple design probably throws out 50% of the heat. You want slow flow with lots of obsticles to grab all the heat. The exhaust on mine is barely warm. Mass produced it would cost maybe $150. I'm just proving the concept. This is my 4th design. By the way, these little yellow tubes would never be able to exhaust anything. Mine are 1.25" and is barely enough when running on high.
 

planet-beaver

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Here's Beaver's thread from 4 yrs ago showing the original design concept

That one didn't work. I could not keep the flames clean. Was getting yellow flames which are wasting fuel and build up soot all on the inside.
 

abnorm

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Just showing you've been working on the design for awhile..............I'm a FAN...Good Luck !
 

afblangley

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I don't understand the "why" behind this idea. What is the advantage of using a propane heater over a diesel (or petro) heater?
 

VanSkulk

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I think that is a great idea, but I have two questions.
Doesn't it get hot?
Doesn't some exhaust get into the intake with the pipes so close together?
 

Cajunwolf

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I use Mr. heater, an approved indoor propane heater that uses the standard 1-pound propane cylinders. They have models that range from 18,000 BTU down to 3800 BTU. I have the MH18B that holds two cylinders and will do 4000, 9000, and 18,000 BTUs and cost $139 on Amazon right now. I will heat up to 450 sq. ft. I live in a 27-foot, 160 sq. ft. class C, so I usually keep it on low.
 

LargeMarge

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re -- Olympian Wave 3 catalytic heater
.
Based on our half-century of camping in lesser rigs, we anticipated freezing an untimely demise if the weather got below 68°f.
Accordingly, 2003, for our ExpeditionVehicle, we obsessively excessived the insulation.
.
We rarely use the Wave 3 on LOW above 40°f.
I believe that is around 1,700Btu.
The HIGH setting is around 3,000Btu, way too hot for us.
.
We vent excess heat through open windows, at least two on opposite walls.
While I realize open windows in winter may seem a First World extravagance, the escaping warm air carries humidity and odors... and convection-circulates the interior.
.
.
We inherited a Mister Buddy.
Never used it.
According to the label, the LOW setting is equivalent to the Sahara mid-summer mid-day*.
They proudly proclaim their HIGH is approximately two degrees hotter than the surface of the sun*.
.
Notes:
* [your humble correspondent admits to some 'journalistic leeway' in these claims, or they possibly may not be entirely accurate in the first place...].
 

Spaceman Spiff

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The problem with internally vented heaters is the amount of water they release into the living area (almost a quart for every pound of propane burned).
This isn't a big problem until you get below freezing.
 

afblangley

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I think the OP is trying to create a vented propane heater like the Propex. My RV has a Suburban propane furnace. It is safe and produces a dry, comfortable heat (though it burns through a lot of propane in the process). I don't think it's comparable to a Mr Heater or Olympian. I understand why these would not be acceptable options to some folks. What I don't understand is why it's worth self engineering a vented propane heater when diesel heaters are readily available, cheap, and easy to install.
 

INTJohn

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Can’t I just use a 1 burner Coleman stove that I bought for ummmm 40$?
Ohh yeah. Now I remember, that is what I use.
Thanx 4 reminding me.
Intjohn
 

Spaceman Spiff

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I'm not going to discourage someone who is trying to build a better heater for van dweller market.

We all experience cold differently and our requirements are different. I don't use a heater until the temps get down to about 35º. Three excursions a year can get below 0ºF. Open flames and catalytic heaters don't work for me (I've tried).
 
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