Morningstar charge controllers

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Natgreen

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I was wondering if anyone on the forum has experience with these. Are they worth the extra money?
 
it depends what model you are talking about. JiminDenver has 2 of them so do I although one of mine is not hooked up yet. I know others on the forum have them. for certain applications there are very few choices. what model are you looking at? highdesertranger
 
I have the TS-MPPT-45 because my panel puts out 36 volts. And because everyone was saying MPPT controllers were better than PMW. I have no need for its communications and data logging capabilities. I don't know if it was the best choice or only choice six years ago, but it has worked perfectly all that time.
 
I have 3 of these panels. 46.7v. And right now my plan is tentatively a 24v bank.
http://www.solardesigntool.com/comp...l;jsessionid=FF329881939502A7B94D9FFF5AABFC53
I'm still looking to see what controller is best for me. So far the 40A epever kit is on my radar but was considering Morningstar because everyone says they are the best.

Also. I'm going with lithium. Do any of these charge controllers have a temp cut off? I'm worried I'll be in freezing temps sometimes.
 
My Morningstar has a temperature sensor, but I don't know what it does with the readings it gets. I haven't read the manual in a long time. I think the manuals are available onilne.
 
I have a TS/MPPT/60 AND TS/MPPT/45

I have not had any issues since installing them in 2016/17. They have large cooling fins. They take 2 gauge cables. They are highly settable with a computer set up on them. I do not know if the temperature sensor could be used to shut off charging. I know that you do not use temperature compensation with Lithium.

I would not put your three panels in series as it would be very close to the Voc limit of the controller.
 
jimindenver said:
I have a TS/MPPT/60 AND TS/MPPT/45

I have not had any issues since installing them in 2016/17. They have large cooling fins. They take 2 gauge cables. They are highly settable with a computer set up on them. I do not know if the temperature sensor could be used to shut off charging. I know that you do not use temperature compensation with Lithium.  

I would not put your three panels in series as it would be very close to the Voc limit of the controller.

Thanks. What's the benefit of wiring panels in series? I would think that it would produce less amps. And that would be counter productive.

Also, what do you mean about temperature compensation for lithium?
 
I am currently running 3 Morningstar charge controllers and have 6 years of trouble free experience with them.
Currently using the TS45 with RM2 remote in the step van. I highly recommend the RM2 remote meter to monitor and control the TS45.

The temp sensor adjusts the charging profile to match the acutal temp of the batteries. Very precise charging with this sensor. Without it, not so much.
 
Thanks. I know what you mean by temperature compensation now.
 
I have a TS/MPPT/45 and it has been good to me. No trouble for over three years. Through three, plus this current one, summers of 100-110+ F in an enclosed van with only a roof vent (I don't live in the van in the summer. It is my grocery getter with its Whynter, that runs 24x7x365[6], that I also use for secondary refrigerated storage.
 
Natgreen said:
Thanks. What's the benefit of wiring panels in series? I would think that it would produce less amps. And that would be counter productive.

Also, what do you mean about temperature compensation for lithium?

Running them in series does produce fewer amps but at a higher voltage. That allows you to use thinner cable to bring the power down to the controller which turns the excess voltage back into amps.

Temperature compensation adjust the voltage the battery is charged at depending on the temperature. Higher when it is cold, lower when hot. That is why you can not use temperature compensation with Lithium batteries, because it could raise the voltage above what's acceptable and damage the battery.
 
jimindenver said:
Running them in series does produce fewer amps but at a higher voltage. That allows you to use thinner cable to bring the power down to the controller which turns the excess voltage back into amps.

Temperature compensation adjust the voltage the battery is charged at depending on the temperature. Higher when it is cold, lower when hot. That is why you can not use temperature compensation with Lithium batteries, because it could raise the voltage above what's acceptable and damage the battery.
So which would provide more power? Series or parallel? Is it equal? I would guess series would provide slightly less because there is a loss in the transfer. I don't really think I have a need for smaller wires since it's only like a 2ft pull. I would want efficiency. I understand why you would be cautious about maxing out the Voc limit of the controller but if it's rated for that my thinking is it should be ok. They usually understate those specs so they over perform. If it's going to be a significant increase in charging capability I would be willing to do it.
 
In theory the power is the same except for a loss due to the conversion from a higher voltage to 12 volt. The run of thinner wire comes from the panels to the controller. In my case my three 250 watt poly's can each produce over 10 amps at 38 or so volts Voc. Combined they are over the 30 amp rating of the 10 gauge MC4 cable and most 3 into 1 branch connectors, so in parallel I would need 8 gauge MC4 and a 50 amp branch connector. I have never seen a MC4 cable fail but I have seen a overloaded branch connector melt down. Overloaded and sitting in the hot sun all day is not a good combo.

How much power is loss? Using my panels as a example, they would produce 18.5 amps to the battery while tracking the sun at 5000 ft of altitude. That's 55.5 amps total. Flat mounted in series on my trailer I am use to seeing a peak of 50 amps but recently on a 112 degree day I saw 54 amps peak at near sea level. That is not a big loss and it dispels the myth that Poly's are crippled by heat.

The downsides to series wiring are a loss from conversion, the controller works harder and gets hotter and the affects of partial shading of one panel affecting all of them. Then again if you are going to buy a roof full of solar and park in the shade....

Now then. DO NOT mess with the Voc limit of your controller. Even getting close is bad because you never know when cloud effect, temperature or altitude will push you over. The 435 watt panel on my truck is rated for 79 Voc and I have seen it push over 100v. Some controllers will simply die, a few will shut off until the Voc returns to acceptable levels. It's great that the controller protects itself but that does you no good. here's an example.

I was asked to review a design from a local solar provider here in Flagstaff. The first thing I noticed is that they have three panels with Voc's of 67v wired in series on a controller limited to 150 Voc. The controller will shut down as soon as the sun is high enough for the panels to reach full power and stay that way until the sun is low enough for the Voc to start dropping. You get a small amount of power early and late with nothing in between from 1000 watts of solar. At least the controller does not die but others will.

Last thing is never assume that the manufacture has a built in buffer to the limits. Should there be one it will just tell them that you REALLY exceeded the limit and they do not like covering certain things under warranty.
 
Thanks for the conversation. I learned a lot. I'm just going to wire them in parallel. Btw. I seen that video where you replaced the microwave with an A.C.. I'm going to try that. Did you find a good solution to the overheating? I was thinking maybe a vent in the roof similar to the **** tank exhuast. Maybe put a computer fan in it too or something along these lines.
 
"Did you find a good solution to the overheating?"

move to where you don't need AC. LOL sorry I couldn't resist.

highdesertranger
 
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