Let's Talk Tongue & Groove!

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Mortisha

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Ok ... I see many builds using tongue and groove pine and I have priced it and it is reasonable. My question is.... how much warping happens with this build? I have seen several people talk of warping in the heat and I was wondering how I could avoid such a thing when I build... if there is a way? I noticed that one guy built with the tongue and groove pine and then later it looks as if he went and put up a plywood wall over it. I would ask him but can't get a hold of him to find out why. So if anyone has any advice I could sure use it! HuggZ
 
narrower strips = less noticeable warp or gaps from shrinkage.<br /><br />moisture/temperature extremes= more warping/swelling/shrinking/cracking.<br /><br />prefinishing both sides with a sealer can slow the transfer of moister within paneling and therefore help minimize all that movement.<br /><br />A plus is that thin, narrow strips can be handled by one person easier than large panels, and can be bent (within limits)to fit the curve of a van easier.<br /><br />t/g needs straps or some sort of nailbase to glue and nail/screw to....<br /><br />I have come to prefer wood as framing and accents where movement with humidity is less of a visual or structural issue...now I tend to use cloth glued over foam, then painted for most of my interior and thin plywood and solid wood for shelving and cabinetry......<br />of course, it may be that after 40 years of installing t/g in homes and cabins- I'm just tired of it..LOL<br /><br />Box stores like Home Depot carry prefinished 4x8 panels that are beaded to resemble t/g as an alternative also....<br /><br /><br />
 
Sort of on topic; I used to work at a home improvement store and one day I saw a new product, tongue and groove cedar closet lining, at an unbelievable price. Turned out to be a typo ($5 instead of $50), but several customers and employees had grabbed a couple of boxes before it was fixed, myself included <img src="/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" alt="" align="absmiddle" border="0" /><br /><br />Anyway, I had a pick'em up truck with a camper shell back then, and used the t&amp;g on top of the textured plastic bedliner to make a level floor, using gorilla glue to hold it together. Bottom line: I don't know how t&amp;g pine would work for walls, but the cedar version worked great for truck bed flooring. I never had a problem with moths getting into my clothes or food, either. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/cool.gif" alt="" align="absmiddle" border="0" />
 
I suspect the amount of warpage would depend on how well the strips were attached to the base layer: a good layer of a water resistant glue should hold the strips firmly.
 
The reason I was asking was in reference to a vardo. The guy said he used 3/4in on the sides and wished he would of used 1/4 in instead. Do you think that could of caused the warping?&nbsp;<br /><br />Thanks so much for the info everyone I do so appreciate it HuggZ
 
Pine is a very soft wood. <br />Even though the surface may feel hard, once you scratch it, you can tell just how soft the inner heart of the wood feels. <br />While pine is often used in spite of this issue, when this wood gets wet, it is very apt to warp. <br />Warping is caused when moisture soaks into the soft wood. <br />The wood expands when wet, and then contracts once it dries out. <br />The&nbsp;result can range from slight warping to very badly damaged wood.<br /><br />every board needs to be sealed six sides before installing ....<br /><br />blkjak ....
 
what would be a harder more sturdy wood to use?&nbsp;
 
hardwoods are too expensive ....<br /><br />i used square edged #1 pine with two coats of quality deck paint 6 sides ....<br /><br />i used phillips washer head screws face applied&nbsp;1&amp;1/2 inch long #10 - two fasteners per connection - spaced boards 1/8 inch&nbsp;....<br /><br />i covered the framing first with heavy gorilla tape to prevent squeaks ....<br /><br />blkjak ....<br /><br />
 
tip - layout you exposed fasteners for a better finished product ....<br /><br />so you have a vertical center line and a set dimension spacing for the two fasteners per connection ....<br /><br />blkjak ....<br /><br />
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Only thing I can add to great advise is that I prefer to miter the ends at 45* angles rather than "butt joint" them, it's a cleaner, smoother finish. 1/4" strips would be easier to cut, bend, and would weigh less. The prefinished 4'x8' panels are real nice looking ( especially the birch) and it won't move with the heat/cold/moisture/drying cycles a van goes through, but might be more diffecult for a novice to install.
 
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