Input please on this system setup

[Uncle Todo]

Input and any answers are appreciated.
For the vehicles charging system, I'll be doing a Big Three upgrade along with a higher output alternator.
2 AWG Pos & Neg cable will be run from the battery to "electric closet"
BSS 60amp breaker for house & vehicle battery with vehicle most likely mounted under hood
Anderson SB175 175amp power connector
Power studs Pos for house battery and car battery
Kisae DMT-250 will connect to these & ground
BSS 300amp 3 position, 1, 2, & Off, this will feed & switch inverter & fuse panel from either house or car battery(separate switch for inverter & fuse panel?)
BSS 150amp breaker inline with inverter
Anderson SB125 power connector to fuse panel (not sure if it needs to be 125amp?)

The fuses are the recommended sizes from Kisae.
The system except fuse panel will be built on a removable base, hence the connectors from vehicle battery and switch to panel.
Do I need to add, remove, or rethink anything?
Sorry for the crude Visio work lol

 

[highdesertranger]

will those circuit beakers pass power both ways? many don't.

I prefer buss bars over the studs.

I have never heard of that company with the fuse box, I like Blue Sea for most components.

highdesertranger

 

[Uncle Todo]

Thanks HDR, I hadn't even thought the breakers may only pass one way.
I'll have to check on that.
The fuse box is an off brand but one of the few I've found with wire terminals on the rear vs sides.
I want rear terminals for mounting in the ceiling hole made for the switch panel from the conversion company I've removed.

 

[Uncle Todo]

Looking through product specs, I found no mention of terminal specs indicating one or the other being battery or load.
Searching I found a boating forum with the same question, and no, it doesn't matter, you can have either on either terminal.

However, I may go with the 285 series instead being they have a push button to disconnect/turn off. Plus they are slightly smaller.
Although as far as I can tell the 187 series, as in my diagram, can just be switched off as well.
[img=400x400]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71g3vXPRmUL._AC_SL1500_.jpg[/img]

 

[Freelander]

110v AC Breakers work both ways, most 12v DC will not.

 

[Uncle Todo]

This post https://www.thehulltruth.com/11484740-post5.html
From https://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/935671-installing-blue-seas-285-series.html
Blue Sea says it does not matter, to me that would indicate the breaker doesn't care which direction the current is flowing.

 

[Uncle Todo]

I just shot off an email to Blue Sea to verify.
One thing I'm pondering, should I have a separate switch for inverter & fuse box between house & vehicle battery?
I'm trying to think of an instance I'd want one but not the other running on either or.
Inverter most likely will be switched to vehicle battery to use for cooking with engine running, I don't see why I'd need to leave the fuse box connected to house battery. Even though usage would be minimal, while charging I'd prefer no drain.
Any thoughts?

 

[Weight]

With the qualifier; "Thermally responsive Bi-Metal breaker".