In order to avoid reinventing the wheel….

[Zerpersande]

…I decided to make this post. I’ll keep it as short as possible and any and all suggestions and opinions are appreciated.

I just purchased a Nissan NV 200. The first steps that I have planned are to put in some foil back bubble wrap inside the walls and between the with the areas of the floor and ceiling. Oh then add some insulation inside the walls cover the openings with the bubble wrap aluminum stuff and then cover everything with four-way stretch carpeting.Then I’m going to simply put plywood on the floor and cover it with either some sort of rubber flooring or vinyl flooring. Beyond this, I know what I want in the van but I don’t know the best way to get it all in there. Which is where are you guys come in.

i’m going to put a roof rack on that pretty much covers the entire top of the van. The plan is to put 200 W of solar panels at the front and use the back in order to carry things. The fact that I mentioned solar panels mange the inside I need to have a fixed area for the 100 amp hour battery and all the electrical controls, so an electrical box. I want to add a rather large refrigerator and I’m looking at a Dometic two-way chest type. I want a place to keep a toilet, one of those two section in case of disaster-aftermath toilets. I’ve already got a standard size propane tank that I currently use on my barbecue. I think my barbecue, all the portable, Will probably be exchanged for a smaller stove for daily use. Maybe have a container for a very large portable unit and keep it on top of the roof rack. I want a bed. Or a comfortable way to sleep on the floor. I need a way to wash dishes and an area to prepare food. Of course plates and eating utensils.

right now I’m just looking at putting everything in plastic crates putting them in the back of the van and seeing what happens. Maybe you guys have some specific ideas or specific YouTube videos that I can look at or whatever. Once again, I realize this is a very general vague complicated post. I apologize for that. If you have comments I’d like to hear them.

 

[maki2]

Your insulation plan is no good. Reflectix bubble warp foil will not do anything to help keep you warm or cold when installed like that. If your van is white then it is already about as heat reflective on hot days as it is ever going to get.

First rule of physics you need to know. Heat moves towards cold. Cold does not move towards heat. On a hot day the inside of a van without any air conditioning will never be any cooler in temperature than the ambient air temperature. Opening the windows will accomplish help accomplish that.

 

[Sofisintown]

I did make a video about building my van and even though it is not too detailed, it shows where everything is. Take a look if you think it might help.
I used 2 vanity cabinets I got for free, 2 sheets of plywood and some 2x4 s to build the stuff in there.

 

[bullfrog]

Very few people are able to get it right the first time, especially if they rush into this. How much insulation if any you need will depend on where you will be and the temperatures where you will be the most of the time. Every inch of insulation you put in will be space you could use for living. I would recommend you simply temporarily set up your space for sleeping and determine how much space you will need for you and your bedding to get a good nights sleep in the warmest and coldest conditions then determine what and how much insulation you will need to be comfortable. Everything else will not matter if you cannot get a good nights sleep.

 

[Zerpersande]

Your insulation plan is no good. Reflectix bubble warp foil will not do anything to help keep you warm or cold when installed like that. If your van is white then it is already about as heat reflective on hot days as it is ever going to get.

First rule of physics you need to know. Heat moves towards cold. Cold does not move towards heat. On a hot day the inside of a van without any air conditioning will never be any cooler in temperature than the ambient air temperature. Opening the windows will accomplish help accomplish that.

I did say I was going to put insulation in the walls but I’m not using the foil/bubble to maximize insulation. It’s to deaden sound and prevent condensation on the metal. I will then fill the cavity with standard insulation.

As for physics, I taught that subject. Heat towards ‘move toward’ cold. when two surfaces or materials come in contact energy flows from the more to less energetic. Putting that bubble wrap prevents direct contact of moist air on a cold surface. I want to prevent water from collecting on the metal skin. The insulation inhibits air flow, which is to say reduces energy exchanges from inside to outside, regardless of direction.

But you’re essentially correct. That first layer is to eliminate condensation and reduce sound. In dact I have found a different product that uses closed cell foam instead of bubble wrap.

Ventilation, opening the windows is my first strategy. The NV 200 the ribs in the ceiling are too close to put a standard 14 inch fan so I would have to cut a rib. I am in Japan and I’ve already been told by the dealer I bought this van from that I cannot take out that jumpseat in the back cargo area without violating some law. It’s considered modifying the original design of the vehicle. I saw one YouTube clip or an article, I forget which, that said those ribs are not structural members they’re really there to keep the top from vibrating it makes making sound. Be that as it may, when I go for an inspection I can put the seat back in there but I can’t replace that rim and if they say I can’t get it inspected because of that rib I’m royally screwed. I found an 11 inch fan and I’m considering that. However…

I’m thinking about building some kind of box structure right behind the driver seat and passenger seat on the ceiling, then put vents small vents in the roof so they enter that box. Then put a fan in the box to pull in/push out air. I could then locate a vent toward the back of the camper so that I will get ventilation coming through, but I probably could just open the windows a little.

But thanks for the comments. Food for thought.

 

[Zerpersande]

Every inch of insulation you put in will be space you could use for living.

What time doing won’t reduce the space inside the vehicle at all. I mean no change whatsoever. all I’m going to do is pull off the panels to access inside the area between the outside of the vehicle and the inside skin and put insulation in that area. And as I said in another response, I’m not doing that just for insulation purposes but primarily it’s to prevent condensation from forming directly on large portions of the interior of the outer skin and also to deaden sound.

I would recommend you simply temporarily set up your space for sleeping and determine how much space you will need for you and your bedding to get a good nights sleep in the warmest and coldest conditions then determine what and how much insulation you will need to be comfortable.

Yup. I think it was you that made a similar comment previously and I took that comment a heart. That’s why I said I’ll just stick everything in plastic crates for a while and see what happens. I live in the central part of Japan. I would describe it as being similar to the climate of northern South Carolina. Maybe a little bit more humid, but it depends on where you are. For what it’s worth, right now It’s 26°C with 49% humidity. That song little bit hotter than where I’m from in Piedmont North Carolina. Cold weather doesn’t really bother me. I don’t like feeling hot and sweaty though.

Again, thanks for your input

 

[bullfrog]

They make specific products to deaden sound that will stick to existing surfaces and have a foil backing. The key to solving the condensation problem is ventilation, there are also containers of reusable crystals that absorb moisture. Air conditioning works really well and there are examples on YouTube where small 5,000 btu window units are temporarily installed using custom fit panels in door or window openings installed when parked, powered by a gasoline or propane generator carried on a rear hitch rack. This also solves the problem of unvented propane heaters causing condensation by the use of a cheap electric ceramic heater although there are now cheap vented diesel heaters available the good reliable ones are expensive. Cons to a generator are weight, noise, fuel storage and fuel cost. Solar is an alternative but really you don’t have enough roof space to power a system that would run an ac or space to store enough batteries. Open a few windows, use a cheap fan and spend a night sleeping in the van and see how big a problem condensation is for you before spending a lot of time, money and effort. It may be a roof vent with 12 volt DC fan will solve the problem.

 

[Zerpersande]

They make specific products to deaden sound that will stick to existing surfaces and have a foil backing.

Agree. But the costbgoes up. And because I’m in Japan, I take a double hit afterrthat cost increase…it’s heavier and that extra weight increases the already high shipping costs I incur.

It may be a roof vent with 12 volt DC fan will solve the problem.

That’s going to be about as far as I go. So putting in a well designed ventilation system will be important. Well, there is a small AC about the size of a canister vacuum cleaner. Vent hoses run the hot air out and the cool air where you want it. I haven’t investigated fully but I think it pretty much just takes the edge off the heat.

 

[maki2]

Search on Maxx Air Fan Dome. It is a small diameter roof mount, dome shaped, ventilation fan. It will easily fit between the ribs on your roof. Some of the models have a reverse direction fan. So you could install one towards the front and one towards the back. One is bringing air in and the other one is exhausting air out.

As you are in Japan and importing many products do not forget to do searches for RV types of products using the word “caravan” instead of RV as that will bring up products sold in many countries that are outside of the USA.

 

[Zerpersande]

Search on Maxx Air Fan Dome. It is a small diameter roof mount, dome shaped, ventilation fan. It will easily fit between the ribs on your roof.

Amazon Japan has one with the LED light function. Add in a tube of the recommended sealant and even with the artificially strong US$ that comes to about $210.

Some of the models have a reverse direction fan. So you could install one towards the front and one towards the back. One is bringing air in and the other one is exhausting air out.

One of my ideas exactly. My idea of building a storage/air inlet chamber onto ceiling area behind the front seats was an attempt to lower costs. I could design a larger fan. I even though about putting a standard 100V bath/toilet exhaust fan in addition to a 12DC fan.

As you are in Japan and importing many products do not forget to do searches for RV types of products using the word “caravan” instead of RV

Exactly.… キャラバン
The Nissan NV350 model name is ‘Caravan’.

 

[Zerpersande]

Just found a place in Australia that will ship to Japan. But the spray adhesive can’t be shipped bc of compressed gas issues. I haven’t recalculated but shipping on what is likeluy to apbe less than a US$300 order is going to be US$160.

This is what I’m up against.

 

[bullfrog]

Where do local upholstery or automotive repair shops get their supplies? Maybe they buy in bulk or use something locally produced?

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

..... I’m not doing that just for insulation purposes but primarily it’s to prevent condensation from forming directly on large portions of the interior of the outer skin and also to deaden sound .....

The best vapor barrier for metal is paint; it is readily available, relatively cheap, and easiest to apply. The manufacturers interior paint should be sufficient, but if not it is not hard to add another layer. Better barriers are more expensive and/or toxic, more difficult to apply.

The correct way to insulate a living space is:
- outside vapor barrier (your painted steel body is adequate)
- insulation of your choice
- inside vapor barrier (most home construction uses visqueen)
- protective cover (your interior paneling will work).

For sound deadening you need to determine what frequency ranges you are trying to attenuate: low, medium, high. Bubble wrap will have no effect on low/medium and little on high.

 

[Zerpersande]

The best vapor barrier for metal is paint;

Paint isn’t a vapor barrier, it’s a rust preventative. A vapor barrier is to prevent the accumulation of moisture. Of course I plan to use bubble/foil as a vapor barrier to seal all the openings after I have applied foam/foil to the panels and filled the cavity with insulation.

As for deadening the sound, as I’ve already said that closed cell foam/foil will work better than the bubble/foam. And it will also reduce thermal conduction to the areas applied. I did this to a step can I had in the 70s. Though that was just with insulation. Didn’t make it sound like a library but there was a noticeable reduction reduction of sound/road noise as compared to nothing at all.

 

[Zerpersande]

Where do local upholstery or automotive repair shops get their supplies? Maybe they buy in bulk or use something locally produced?

Language barrier. That precludes my walking in and discussing the matter. My Japanese ability is short task oriented.

But I’ve found 4mm thick foam backed with foil. 1m x 10m for about $65. Maybe I’ll find sources for other items as I go along.

 

[Morgana]

Language barrier. That precludes my walking in and discussing the matter. My Japanese ability is short task oriented.

Not sure how receptive your local community, including the retail community, is to people with language difficulties -- some cultures are better about this than others -- but are you sure you've exhausted the possibilities for communicating with local sales and tech people?

For example, if you walked in with some pictures, or a website pulled up on your smartphone, and a note saying
_____を購入する必要があります 手伝って頂けますか？ (Uncle Google says it means "I need to buy ____, can you help me?" --- to increase the odds of success, I flipped the reverse arrows back and forth until I found a phrase that consistently translated back to this)

the point being to (1) stagger into the conversation somehow, even if imperfectly, and (2) signal that they should slow down and keep it simple when they answer you. Or they might just grab Cousin Vinnie-san from Accounting who majored in English at Ohio University.

If they start shouting at you don't worry; some people don't quite grasp the difference between language barrier and deafness LOL I've had it happen.

Like I said, I don't know how foreigner-friendly your host community is, or how much of this sort of thing you've tried already. But it would be a shame if the widget you needed was in a warehouse 5 miles away and you couldn't find it.

PS I wouldn't overestimate the use of Google Translate, it's no magic bullet, but I wouldn't underestimate it either, especially if the situation is not crowded or rushed and you can experiment around a bit.

 

[bullfrog]

We have a lot of seasonal J1 students from overseas here and they look for people in their home countries to practice their English with, maybe check with an English as a second language class to see if someone wants to go shopping with you and make some friends.

 

[Zerpersande]

We have a lot of seasonal J1 students from overseas here and they look for people in their home countries to practice their English with, maybe check with an English as a second language class to see if someone wants to go shopping with you and make some friends.

I speak Japanese. Well enough that when I bought a Porsche a few years back, and also when I went to look at a van the other day, ai was able to handle the negotiations. But walking into a shop that does this kind of work will result in a lot of questions, in a communication style, that strains my abilities to the breaking point. I’ve done similar things before and the results were, well, less than optimal.

I’ve found the material to go against the inside of the skin. Now I need to find adhesive. The thing with that is that it’s going to be expensive. Is $20/can a decent price?

 

[Zerpersande]

PS I wouldn't overestimate the use of Google Translate, it's no magic bullet, but I wouldn't underestimate it either, especially if the situation is not crowded or rushed and you can experiment around a bit.

Unless it’s something important I usually avoid Google Translate. It breaks the communication flow. The problem arises because one, I can speak Japanese enough to get by. And although my Japanese is weird, listeners get the idea that I understand everything they say. And I don’t. There are dialects and also changes in vocabulary when they are being polite. I get around this by controlling the situation with questions. And having taught both science and English for over 40 years, I can use the vocabulary I do know creatively. Kind of a ‘You’re only tool is a hammer the whole world looks like a nail.’ kind of thing. People get uncomfortable at times. That's not enjoyable for either of us. I’ll misunderstand details. Finding these shops and getting there isn't an easy task either. And a lot of shops may not be using ’best practices’.

All of this is what I lumped together as ‘language barrier’. My solution is to research things online and very often Amazon will bring them to my door. Or I have to throw a bit of money at a post office on the other side of the planet.

 

[Morgana]

Well, of course it's up to you to use, and not use, whatever tools you prefer. I was under the impression that

throw a bit of money at a post office on the other side of the planet

was getting problematic. But if it works for you, and you prefer it to the alternatives, go for it! Pushing the language barrier can be uncomfortable as h3ll. And every living-abroad experience is different.