I was looking around for no reason

[Motrukdriver]

Found it. Yep, awesome rig.  He added to length for more convenience (ice cream) hahaha.  Super job on that Vardo and not as heavy as you'd think.  The best thing about the home built is durability and since you built it you can also repair it with relative ease.  He's pulling with a full size.  My thoughts and uses would be a smaller trailer and pull it with my Ranger.  But, that is always up to change like everything else.  I could keep the Jeep Grand Cherokee and pull a bigger trailer with that no problems.  Originally I was thinking about buying an old vintage trailer and gutting it to stud walls and then rebuild it.  No matter how nice I could rebuild it, it would never have the class as one of these Vardo/Sheep wagons.  Thanks for the heads up on where to find the video.  I'll post a link here with a warning, it is a 44 minute long video so if you don't have the data to spare it might be something to pass on.

 

[bullfrog]

I had looked at using insulation foam and PMF (Poor Man's Fiberglass) in the ttnt trailers foamy fourm and the build is possible but doesn't give as good a look and requires interior cabinets be used as structural componets but I believe it would be durable and easy to maintain once built. Unfortunately I fear I just cann't get myself to believe I have the skills to pull it off, so I did something I was more familiar with but just as impossible. I live remote and do not have a shop. Building projects outdoors and with no large flat surfaces is a challenge. I decided to use pannels made of foam and plywood but they were too expensive for me to afford. Even to build them looked to be around $75 to $100 per 4x8 sheet. I looked for cheaper materials than plywood, but none looked any better. I wanted something more substantial than just foam that I would have to plan a wood insert every where I wanted to attach something. I finally found something but every person I talked to told me I was nuts and it wouldn't work because they attract moisture and fall apart if they get wet. It was interior doors. They weigh less than plywood/foam pannels but more than foam. Using the PMF completely waterproofs them. They are square and preassembled. I have been able to buy damaged ones really cheap and even new ones for around $30. Another thing I found is metal attracts moisture and expands and contracts much more than wood, so metal fastners are destined to fail. Wooden dowels work much better and with todays glues hold better. Doors with square edges are a breeze to dowel together and if you need to attach something in the middle take a 1" hole saw to one side, glue in a 1" dowel, drill some 1/4" holes around the dowel and fill with spray insulation foam, you won't be able to break it out even with a hammer. If high load surface simply glue on a piece of thin plywood like 1/4" and you can jump on it without breaking through. Thoroughly coat it with PMF and outdoor paint to waterproof. Mine has lasted over 3 years now with no problems and lives outdoors in southern Utah. Sorry for the long post and lack of pictures but I'm getting to old for all this new stuff I have to learn.

 

[Motrukdriver]

I don't know the cost of prefab SIP's but I know you can make them pretty cheap. SIP's are gaining popularity in construction and there are a few builders using them in mobile construction as well. They build lighter than traditional frame and cover methods and are incredibly strong once completed. One could make thinner SIP's using a lauan thin sheet plywood for the exterior to be weather proofed and a thicker interior sheet so interior structure can be attached with maybe a 1 1/2" thick foam board between them. Super lightweight, insulated and very strong. Adapting them to Vardo construction would be a snap other than the bowed roof. Probably still have to hand assemble that in place.

http://rockymountaintinyhouses.com/sips-vs-stick-framing-for-tiny-houses/

No worries on pictures. I could visualize what you were describing. Been doing home remodeling since I was in high school and spent 23 years doing mechanical engineering work before getting kidnapped by that dang big truck.

 

[Motrukdriver]

So, if you decide to build one of those Vardo/Sheep Wagon type trailers you'll need something else to make the visual complete.  A nice wood truck bed topper might be just the ticket.

https://paleotool.com/2014/03/22/wooden-truck-topper/

He built his using 2x4 for the structure.  I believe I'd go with 2x3 instead for no other reason than weight saving.  The bed on my pickup is 6' so I could put 3 100 watt solar panels up there and I've been thinking of a mounting system where you can raise it up on either end depending on how you park in relation to the sun.  Then, some removable angled hanging brackets for either side of it so you could add 3 more panels tilted to the sun.  600 watts should be enough to power pretty much anything.  Yeah, I think this is my new direction.

 

[John61CT]

There are specialized luan-like cabinetry panels that can be bent to shape once the core foam + PMF has solidified in place.

I would just leave the waterproofed PMF in place on the top / outside, and leave the inside lining to whatever would end up looking nice.

And personally I would go for more foam, both for strength and insulation, at least 3".

 

[Motrukdriver]

Started drawing out the plans for a future Vardo/Sheep Wagon to fit on my 4x8 utility trailer. Found a pretty cool and free cad program, Nanocad, that works pretty close to Autocad. If you know how to use Autocad then Nanocad is an easy transition. The more I draw the more I figure stuff out how to solve problems. I tried and tried to put in a shower but no matter how I arrange the floorplan I've conceded that it is not practical so an outdoor shower it will be along with an outdoor potty. I think I have that part figured out finally. The last thing I futzed with is a small bay window for the bunk area. So far so good....

 

[DuneElliot]

Got to a Basque festival at some point...most of the families open up their sheep wagons to show the interiors and so many of them are gorgeous and so well done.

 

[Motrukdriver]

Yeah, so many amazing interiors. I'm working on the nuts and bolts part right now as to how to realistically integrate a toilet and shower into this small space. The first one I'll build will be on a 4x8 utility trailer and I couldn't sleep last night thinking about it so I got up and drew what I was brain storming. Crazy huh? So, I believe I figured out this dilemma with an easy to set up outside shower and toilet area. It fits and after thinking about it the rest of last night I believe it will work great. 23 years of machine and material handling design and I get excited over a toilet.... hahaha.

 

[Txjaybird]

I had looked at using insulation foam and PMF (Poor Man's Fiberglass) in the ttnt trailers foamy fourm and the build is possible but doesn't give as good a look and requires interior cabinets be used as structural componets but I believe it would be durable and easy to maintain once built.  Unfortunately I fear I just cann't get myself to believe I have the skills to pull it off, so I did something I was more familiar with but just as impossible.  I live remote and do not have a shop.  Building projects outdoors and with no large flat surfaces is a challenge.  I decided to use pannels made of foam and plywood but they were too expensive for me to afford.  Even to build them looked to be around $75 to $100 per 4x8 sheet.   I looked for cheaper materials than plywood, bhellout none looked any better.  I wanted something more substantial than just foam that I would have to plan a wood insert every where I wanted to attach something.   I finally found something but every person I talked to told me I was nuts and it wouldn't work because they attract moisture and fall apart if they get wet.  It was interior doors.  They weigh less than plywood/foam pannels but more than foam.  Using the PMF completely waterproofs them.  They are square and preassembled.  I have been able to buy damaged ones really cheap and even new ones for around $30.  Another thing I found is metal attracts moisture and expands and contracts much more than wood, so metal fastners are destined to fail.  Wooden dowels work much better and with todays glues hold better.  Doors with square edges are a breeze to dowel together and if you need to attach something in the middle take a 1" hole saw to one side, glue in a 1" dowel, drill some 1/4" holes around the dowel and fill with spray insulation foam, you won't be able to break it out even with a hammer.  If high load surface simply glue on a piece of thin plywood like 1/4" and you can jump on it without breaking through.  Thoroughly coat it with PMF and outdoor paint to waterproof.  Mine has lasted over 3 years now with no problems and lives outdoors in southern Utah.  Sorry for the long post and lack of pictures but I'm getting to old for all this new stuff I have to learn.

  Hello!   My Papa always said " Where there is a will....There is a way".  Did you build a Vardo style wagon with the method you detailed in your post?  Or some other sturcture?  Where I live in the more "Ritzy" neighborhoods I"ve  seen stacks of good usable interior doors in the spring which seems to be the main remodeling season here in lower AL.

I find a lot of building supplies and furniture.  I once found a rolling metal tool box in good shape in a dumpster.  I called a friend and guarded my find until he and his brother could get there.  I am constantly amazed at what some consider "trash".  I can always find someone to pass tthings along to.  So much so that friends, family and neighbors often ask me to watch out for certain things.  My Rummage Runs have been curtailed for several months now,  I still slow down if something that looks interesting.

If I say to Queenie, my 4 legged co-pilot, "What's That" she'll start lookin' around!

Jewellann and Q

 

[bullfrog]

I used overhanging sides for more room but since there are two of us I made those bed areas running front to back and since I'm using doors for the roof a slanted front with the majority flat, the one I'm making for my old truck is basically a box and since I have head room at the front a raised 28' x 80" bed is above the 2 beds running front to back. lLots of room and wind resistance since I usually drive it under 50MPH I think it will be fine.

 

[Motrukdriver]

Wood screws and lots of glue. Make it strong, not for the wind but the side to side when you get off the highway.

 

[bullfrog]

You would be surprized at the strenght of Gorilla glue, dowels and PMF. In three years no cracks or movement of joints. Make yourself some steps that get used on a regular basis or a cooler and sit it in the back of your truck. Make one with screws and glue and then after the glue dries remove half the screws and replace with glued dowels. If it gets rained on regularly you will find the screws loosen and the wood turns black around them and after a few years begins to rot. The dowels are tight and as good as the day they were installed. If PMF is applied you can use your box as a sink, it is that waterproof!

 

[Motrukdriver]

Gorilla glue will seal a politicians mouth closed... amazing stuff.

 

[Motrukdriver]

So far so good on this Vardo/Sheep Wagon design.   I'll still need to take exact trailer dimensions before I can do final drawings and it is parked some 9000 miles away from me right now (we board the plane in 6 days).  I'm doing preliminary design work to see if what I'm thinking of will work.  Today I've been thinking of how to put the fridge under the bunk and then slide it out when needed, back under when not needed and not mar the floor.  Looks like Harbor Freight has some dandy little 3" rubber casters that will do the job and I can make compartments (vented of course) so the fridge slides in and locks in place for travel.  Unlock it, slide it out, lock the casters so it does not roll around when I'm futzin around inside of it then I can push it back out of the way.  Floor real estate is at a premium when you are working with a 4x8 utility trailer.  I was thinking about using two of those Whynter fridge/freezer units, 1 for fridge and 1 for freezer but I think just that dual zone (2 cu. ft/65 qt) will work just fine.  Should store enough perishables for 2 weeks at a time and the planned travels will take us past a grocery store on the way to the next 2 weeks.  I'm really liking this type of camper because first, I can do it and second it won't be a cookie cutter design you see on the highways all the time.  Building it should be fun.  Listen... can you hear that?   My tools are whining for me to get home..     This is the gypsy flag, hmmmmm.  

 

[Motrukdriver]

Added a post in the heating and air conditioning section about a hot water heat exchanger. I believe in a space this small using a dedicated hot water source will be doable.

 

[Motrukdriver]

This one is absolutely amazing.  I actually went into pelvic spasms when I saw it... hahaha  

If you want to see the inside (yes you do) then go here and the first 6 pictures are more of this wagon.  I did study it for a bit and I'm convinced I'd have to do a more simplistic built in order to stand up to a lot of road use but you can do a lot with paint.  And again, you'd never get a moments worth of privacy with everyone and their brother that had a Youtube site wanting to interview you so they could see inside of it.  

http://woolywagons.com/gallery.php

 

[Motrukdriver]

Was checking out my utility trailer today. Been a little apprehensive about using it for a Vardo since it is a tilt bed and of course I was 9000 miles away from it when I started my preliminary design work. Looks like the tilt bed won't be a problem at all. All I'll need to do is replace the removable pin with a bolt and I'll probably do the same back at the pivot point too. Was a little cold today so I didn't spend much time on it but enough to satisfy my hesitation. In a few days I'll go out there and get exact measurements so the serious design work can begin. With any luck going towards the positive side I can start the construction when it gets warm again. Brrr chilly brrr is not a good way to build stuff outside.

 

[bullfrog]

80's in Arizona, you need to move your shop!

 

[Motrukdriver]

Yeah, Missouri is a tad brisk this time of year.

 

[highdesertranger]

that one you posted in post number 36 is seriously overloaded. look at the clearance between the tire and the fender. highdesertranger