I need help with my solar setup

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DeeLugton

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I am really confused.  I bought 2 mighty max deep cycle ago batteries.  I thought they were 6 volt but they are 12 volt.  I am setting up a 100 watt solar panel.  I have my controller and a 400 watt inverter. If I pair these batteries I will end up with a 24 volt system .  Is this going to work?  Please help! Thanks.
 
Amateur here but I think these diagrams for themselves.  Maybe explanation somewheres on the net.    A parallel configuration will double your capacity but maintain 12v output...
p1233675765.jpg
4_12_battery%20bank.jpg
 
If each battery is say a 12v 120ampHr then in the configuration above you will have 240ampHrs available at 12v
 
Not if you wire them in paralell. 

 - to - to ground.  

+ to + to what is being powered.
 
There are two ways to wire batteries together: series and parallel. The first (series) adds the voltage together and keeps the amp-hours the same, while the second (parallel) keeps the voltage the same and adds the amp-hours together.

In your case, if you wire your batteries in parallel, you'll still have a 12V system. I hope you have another way to recharge your battery bank, as a single 100W solar panel is unlikely to keep it charged.
 
Please note in the diagrams above that the wiring is unbalanced, and the battery onto which the + and - cables are attached will be worked much harder than the battery that is paralleled to it.

parallel batteries need to have the + on one battery and the - on the battery at the opposite end of the string.

Paralleled batteries should be the same age and make for best performance.

12v flooded Marine batteries are not so great in large parallel strings. 6v golf cart batteries in series parallel to make up the required capacity would last much longer in the same usage and cost less.

12v marine batteries are OK when only one battery is required and it is not drawn down to 50% each and every night.

Any solar is better than no solar, but 100 watts for 200Ah of battery capacity is not going to make for a happy battery, not if it is depleted below 85% state of charge daily.

If 100 AH is taken out of a 300AH battery bank, it requires anywhere from 104 to 125AH be returned into battery before it is indeed fully charged, and achieving the true full charge is important to battery longevity.
 
SternWake said:
Please note in the diagrams above that the wiring is unbalanced, and the battery onto which the + and - cables are attached will be worked much harder than the battery that is paralleled to it.

parallel batteries need to have the + on one battery and the - on the battery at the opposite end of the string.

Paralleled batteries should be the same age and make for best performance.

12v  flooded Marine batteries are not so great in large parallel strings.  6v golf cart batteries in series parallel to make up the required capacity would last much longer in the same usage and cost less.

12v marine batteries are OK when only one battery is required and it is not drawn down to 50% each and every night.

Any solar is better than no solar, but 100 watts for 200Ah of battery capacity is not going to make for a happy battery, not if it is depleted below 85% state of charge daily.

If 100 AH is taken out of a 300AH battery bank, it requires anywhere from 104 to 125AH be returned into battery before it is indeed fully charged, and achieving the true full charge is important to battery longevity.

Good looking out.  I did say I was an amateur!   Are these better depictions of what you are saying???
25667d06-f2d7-4c70-9f42-ebb613d74295.jpg
Slide1.jpg
 
ClassyGlobal said:
Good looking out.  I did say I was an amateur!   Are these better depictions of what you are saying???
25667d06-f2d7-4c70-9f42-ebb613d74295.jpg
Slide1.jpg

This was something I was going to question too. When hooking up a solar charge controller or a trickle charger from 110 house power to batteries in parallel you attach positive to the very first positive terminal in line where the 12V is going to the RV/fuse panel, and the negative to the last negative battery terminal which is also the ground and to the inverter...is this my correct thinking?
 
Balanced wiring is important as shown in this video by Mainesail.



The Midtronics tester is not really so useful for determining level of battery health/remaining capacity, but comparing 3 identical age batteries on it shows the unbalanced battery's wiring causes them to age at different rates .
 
LThank you SternWake. I already bought the batteries and can\ said:
Please note in the diagrams above that the wiring is unbalanced, and the battery onto which the + and - cables are attached will be worked much harder than the battery that is paralleled to it.

parallel batteries need to have the + on one battery and the - on the battery at the opposite end of the string.

Paralleled batteries should be the same age and make for best performance.

12v  flooded Marine batteries are not so great in large parallel strings.  6v golf cart batteries in series parallel to make up the required capacity would last much longer in the same usage and cost less.

12v marine batteries are OK when only one battery is required and it is not drawn down to 50% each and every night.

Any solar is better than no solar, but 100 watts for 200Ah of battery capacity is not going to make for a happy battery, not if it is depleted below 85% state of charge daily.

If 100 AH is taken out of a 300AH battery bank, it requires anywhere from 104 to 125AH be returned into battery before it is indeed fully charged, and achieving the true full charge is important to battery longevity.
 
Nobody said anything about returning them, learn from the above and you'll be fine. Save up for a better bank when this one's dead, if you can keep them topped right up to 100% and not draw them down too far may be as much as a couple years!
 
Some have reported very good service from the 35AH AGM batteries, but some others, not so much. But those reporting bad service likely drained them completely daed and did not regularly fully charge them which kills all lead acid batteries.

100 watts on 70Ah of batteries should Be OK

The Mightymax Specs, like may of the Asian AGM batteries have a ~ 30% max charge rate, on these batteries they say 10.5 amps each.

They could likely exceed that safely, but not if they are already hot from baking inside a hot vehicle.

100 watts of solar is good for about 5 amps fo charge current in June at noon.

AGMS when deeply dischrged often actually benefit from higher charging rates, upto that 30%, but more important is to hold them at absorption voltage until they are fully charged.

full charge on AGM is determined by how much amperage they accept at absorption voltage.  this requires an Ammeter or a voltmeter, IF you really wanted to know.  This is not a requirement, and a true full charge does not have to happen every recharge, but the batteries would love it if they did get one.




On AGM batteries, When amps taper to 0.5% of capacity at absorption voltage, they can be considered fully charged.

0.5% of 70AH is 0.35 amps.

So if you were seeking recharging perfection, which is not necessary every single recharge, the charging source would bring them upto 14.7v( the label states 14.5v to 14.9v) and hold them there until amps taper to just 0.35.

If depleted to 50%, getting them to 80% can be achieved quickly with a higher amp source, upto 21 amps for these 2 35 AH AGMS, but 80% to 100% pretty much cannot be accomplished in less than 3.5 hours, and that is when the batteries are new and healthy. When older they take longer to reach 100% full

The following link is a clamp on Ammeter and full function multimeter( includes voltage)  With it, you can determine when the bateries are fully charged, and make an educated guess how charged they are at any given moment.  It can also show you how much loads you are placing on the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094...=1492748209&sr=8-1&keywords=uni+t+clamp+meter

One only clamps over one of the 2 wires leading to the batteries.

Every vehicle dweller should really have a digitl multimeter. They can be had for cheap, or even free sometimes at harbor freight, but the product linked above can measure amperage without wiring the DMM inline with the load/ charging source.

One should not remove the solar charge controller from the battery while the solar is producing power, unless the controller's instructions clearly says it is OK to do so. So hooking the DMM inline on the solar controller to battery to check amperage would violate this rule, but the clamp meter linked can easily be used to read amperage.

As far as wiring it up, It is pretty simple.  The charge controller instructions shoud say what size fuse is required between solar controller and batteries.  For best performance keep the solar controller to battery wiring short.
 
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